idosubaru

Seafoam is never recommended for oil leaks (this thread is not about oil leaks for instance). You want to focus on the issue, not the symptoms. In other words, the oil leak isn't really the issue - it's a symptom. The issue is the bad gasket or seal - that is what needs replaced. Seafoam won't do anything about it. Technically speaking it would make it worse by thinning out the oil and making it leak at a higher rate (0.00001% higher). Oil leaks are really simple - replace the seal or gasket that's leaking. There is no work around, additive, or "fix" for an oil leak - you simply fix whatever is leaking.

They are not interchangeable, different pad shapes, etc. The clips won't install in the caliper nor will the pads fit in the clips...has to all match, like a puzzle. It is noisy, a very strange and unexpected noisy too, without the clips, that's why I was trying to fix it to begin with.

This doesn't make any sense, but I think i can at least get the right ones for his vehicle by getting the "2003 style" here: 03 clips listed here: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_disc-brake-hardware-kit-wearever_20310156-p?searchTerm=brake+clips 02 clips listed here: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_disc-brake-hardware-kit-wearever_20310144-p?searchTerm=brake+clips What is strange is that my 02 and 03 Outbacks both have the same clips (the 2002 ones listed above). So..... My 03 has "02" pads? My friends 02 has "03" pads?

Friend has a 2002 Outback that has a different pad than my 02 and 03 Outbacks and they are all identical vehicles - H6, VDC. Searching online, it all looks like the ones in my Outbacks. How do I get the correct front pad clips for this car? I typed in a few different years and am having a problem locating them. I have seen those style pads before. They have wider "ears" than my OB's...Problem is the brake pad clips are missing (just had a wheel bearing replaced at a shop, guess they lost them or tried to replace them like i am and can't find them).

i was a little concerned that the "crack" also caused some minor separation of the tab from the rest of the body. in other words it is not some thousandths of an inch further away than it should be due to the pressure that caused the problem to begin with so to speak. it seems unlikely but i was never about to try it either. i think i still have my old cracked one.

have you ever tried FM modulators? not the wireless kind that get all sorts of interference, but the ones that plug in-line with your antenna and are hard wired in place? worked great in the Baltimore/DC area.

Porcupine - yep you can pretty much just keep adding coolant indefinitely. Friend had a multi-wrecked, terrible condition, bought at auction, high mileage outback with badly leaking HG's. I told him it wasn't worth repairing and he ran it a few more years (like 100+ mile commute) until like 285,000 or 300,000 miles just by continuing to top it off. Like GD insinuated, I'm surprised the Subaru Conditioner didn't alleviate it. Sure it's not a hose somewhere? As already mentioned the previous comment about blowing up motors was for a different engine - the Ej25D, those have different failure modes and are more of a debacle.

awesome, good job! i love the higher stance myself, more functional, running over stuff, off road, snow, debris, easier in and out, more visibility. did you take the after measurement after driving for a bit or right after install? wonder if it'll settle some? i installed new struts in the rear and they were insanely high in the back, looked silly being all raked like that...first drive they settled back down to normal.

yes make sure both have EGR. or both don't have EGR. it's easy to install an EGR engine into a non-EGR vehicle, but not the other way around.

it's a toss up at this point. mileage, maintenance history, price, how many owners for each one - headgaskets done on the EJ25? 00-02 EJ25's had an extended 100,000 mile headgasket warranty and many were repaired by Subaru - so one could inspect the heads and see if the headgaskets were already replaced. Or look for service records, ask Subaru about the VIN. Of course that doesn't guarantee they'll hold and Subaru doesn't resurface them usually, but at least you would know. Everything being equal - I would lean towards the EJ22 and install a complete timing belt kit - new pulleys and tensioner. I see no reason to intentionally introduce EJ25 headgasket issues to a car if you have a choice. You need a single port exhaust header and then bolt EJ25 intake manifold to the EJ22. Swap the crank sprocket and drivers side cam sprocket when installing the new timing belt (it lakes 3 minutes, very simple, no extra work really). *** NOTE - These are Phase II 99+ specific directions, this info is not accurate on older EJ swaps. Don't follow directions for older EJ22-Ej25 swaps. If you get the EJ25, now is a good time to install new EJ25 Turbo headgaskets. These Phase II EJ's are easy headgaskets to install, particularly with the engine out of the car, that's the hard part.

water pumps are not jumping to my mind...hmmm, good to know. i'm recalling the thermostats being different, having a nipple for coolant supply to the oil cooler.

having them jump is typical, happens all the time. the cam moved, simply move it back. about as simple as you can get. i guess you get it now, but don't overthink it - it is about as simple as you can imagine - line up the cam mark and timing mark on each side and you're done. weird, i can't think of 2 different EJ water pumps...wonder what yours is, for a turbo EJ25 or something? strange.

Rear side window? What do you mean? Side view mirror, those are simple bolt ons. But if you mean the glass? I'm picturing the small piece of glass glued into the side of a sedan behind the rear door window? In my experience the glue holding those things in place is insanely hard to remove. Make sure you get the exact tools you need, otherwise it's a nightmare and takes forever.

i have no idea what that means so i'm guessing not. rears are pretty benign, just clean them and put them back together, i wouldn't get crazy and try to disassemble the outer joint.

oh yeah i forgot i've used mine for that before, blowing off a sanded down deck, and it's like a 40 gallon or something and it needs a lot of break time for catching up. mine is an oil-less variety. i didn't know the difference when i bought it, first time ever touching an air tool literally, none of my family or friends ever had one. it's 7 years old now and still going, guess i'm lucky so far and should think about what i'm getting next.

Rotary tools take a lot. I have a 4 foot high tank, can wrap my arms around it...however big that is. Anyway with the rotary tools it drains quickly and needs to cycle. I would lean towards getting more than you need, you're likely to use it. But everyone is different, you may know that you'll never really need more capacity. I'm usually trying, expanding, etc so it was good that I listened to folks that said get the most I could for my first one - and it still fits well for my needs. I am glad I didn't go any larger though - mine has wheels and is "barely" portable. I mean not that most people need one to be but on a few occasions it has been nice to be able to load mine by myself and take it somewhere. Nice to have that option if needed, it's at my office instead of my garage right now for instance...though maybe that's a bad thing, I could use it right now at home!

Boo. Good luck knocking it out Dave. Not that he wants to do this anyway...but... Since Subaru has used the Coolant Conditioner in tens of thousands (hundreds of thousands?) of EJ25's for over a decade I think it's hard to surmise that the stuff is that bad. I typically say avoid them as well but I have never seen issues in any EJ25 i've disassembled and there aren't vast reports of hoses/oily coolant disasters you've seen. i've never heard of it myself, stuff like that (as the headgasket issue itself) are usually obvious on forums like this.

I see no reason to replace the pump, just replace the gasket. Did you use any sealant on the gasket faces? Is sealant required on the gasket on older Subaru's, I've always used it and I know many others do as well? I work almost exclusively on newer ones now so I'm starting to forget if it was required, but I know sealant is commonly used on older ones. I would get a Subaru gasket, most aftermarket water pump gaskets are awful. Very thin and notably poorer quality than Subaru.

30/50 compression on all cylinders is terrible, that sounds more like timing issues for all of them to be the same like that? if it were rings I would expect more variation? doing a proper full on rebuild, including the block, is a ton of work and cost adds up quickly. price it out first and see if you like what you see. Common practice around here for years has been to use Fel Pro permatorque head gaskets, they don't require the retorque procedure that Subaru gaskets or other aftermarkets require. I have a set of those headgaskets if you want to buy them. XT Factory Service manuals are available on Subaruxt.com to help with a rebuild/spec's/etc. I suggest downloading that. Block and head procedures will be the same as your SPFI EA82. Parts: 1. Bearings, rings, block parts - i think there's an oring in between the block halves? 2. Headgaskets, valve stem seals, cam carrier gaskets/orings - these are the metal frame type with oring material on them that clip to the heads (EA82's only have one, XT6's have 3 per side), and the cam carrier oil port metal reinforced oring. 3. Valve cover gaskets, grommets, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pump seals/orings (if you're doing it again), cam seals, and cam cap orings, crank seal. if you're interested in a swap and gas mileage is your concern, do an EJ18 swap, it's exactly the same as an EJ22 swap as the two are interchangeable. that is weird, highest mpg EA82's are FWD Manual MPFI XT's from 88-91. they can get up to 42 mpg in perfect conditions - excellent running condition (nearly impossible to find after a quarter century) using no A/C and all highway miles. most EA82's get 35 at best so 50 sounds off the charts. maybe someone swapped a justy engine into your Loyale or the speedometer also needs fixed!

Oh yeah, they got it - my comment about "low coolant level" is a bit off - it should read "low coolant or trapped air".

the loss of heat suggests either: 1. low coolant levels 2. headgasket have you checked coolant level?

Oh man, sorry to hear that Dave. That's unfortunate. As mentioned TC bolts just come out through the bellhousing access hole under the throttle body, not from underneath. how much did you see/are you loosing? The 00-04 era Ej25 headgaskets often get worse very slowly. it's not hard to get 50,000 more miles out of one after an initial green spot is seen. I wouldn't be too worried about the Subaru conditioner on a properly maintained, known good motor. It's standard on all Subaru's for over a decade and I haven't seen any significant radiator or heater core failure. I've seen one clogged 99 Forester radiator...unknown vehicle that was previously overheated..who knows they may have been dumping tap water in it. GD owns his own shop, does EJ's all the time and uses it all the time. Maybe he'll chime in. I would suspect most issues are due to overheating or some other compromise, probably not likely on a properly maintained engine.

i had an XT6 (80's Subaru) get stuck in first, would not come out at all. shop installed a new clutch and it was fine for years later. that car was i perfectly good condition otherwise though. at least...the shop said that's what they did and i had no reason to think otherwise then. that was before i worked on cars myself at all.

obscure parts are often tricky, glad you figured it out.

might want to clarify which engine. Subaru has most EJ stuff online on their own opposed forces site, have you tried there? Skip's headgasket repair page is easily found on google and has all the part numbers...assuming it's an EJ25 and the same year as his.