idosubaru

Here's some nice pictures including someone who drilled too far and hit a coolant jacket: You're swapping engines right - peak at the head with EGR to get a feel for depth and what the final product looks like. If you do headgaskets and trust the other head, you could also swap the EGR head from the original engine onto the donor and avoid the drilling/tap.

1. check for a dented trans pan. 2. Add a bottle of Auto Trans-X to the ATF, available at any auto store or Walmart not that I encourage supporting that low grade cheap-stuff-addiction machine. *** Keep in mind additives are horrible ideas most of the time and should be avoided. There are a *very tiny* percentage of situations where additives can address a very specific make/model/part/location issue with reasonable efficacy. 1999 automatics are one of those rare cases - like about the only (and most common) one in Subaru world. Anyway - don’t extrapolate that these money extracting desperation bottles are good ideas. Avoid reading the marketing drenched labels that prey on your desperation This issue has been present too long, it should have been addressed awhile ago. Maybe add a second bottle if the first doesn’t help. Changing the fluid is a good idea if it’s never been done. But that’s not going to fix this

Good question. Excellent answer! This is better than watching TV! (Not that I do that so what do I know?).

That started in 2011 Forester, and is the FB25 engine which has poor oil control rings leading to oil consumption and it comes with the CVT which is not as robust as the 4EAT. Those aren't necessarily deal breakers but certainly doesn't make the timing chain any significant factor either.

New timing belt kit and those both have the 4EAT. Great transmission. 100k here you come Issue you’ll have is rust. That’s age is ripe for being close to having rust issues but still looking clean sharp and like new. Inspect them carefully. Or get one from the south or west without rust. Look at exhaust - specifically hanger welds and rear flanges. And suspension and underbody as well - particularly areas close to the pinch welds and exterior body parts/sills. The real issues are parts you can’t see rear quarter wheel Wells snd front fenders It starts from the inside snd works it’s way out. You can Google pictures or look when you’re driving around unless your state has inspection laws that prevent that condition Replace timing belt, pulleys and tensioner. Use Subaru parts or AISIN kit. At a minimum replace belt and lower idler ($30) and inspect tensioner shaft seal for signs of wetness. I do them no matter what unless I know everything was replaced with Subaru parts. Those two are 2-3 years past subarus age limit for timing belts. Shops typically use inferior non Subaru parts or just replace the belt or belt and water pump because it sounds good to buyers- but is otherwise foolish. Those headgaskets start leaking externally slowly and give lots of time to plan a repair - like months or years. Never anything imminent or worrisome.

Agreed Seems low or I’m reading it wrong. 22ish ounces/2 cans like I said last post.

22ish from memory. Two of the small cans I have a ton of treats every Subaru I’ve done spot on.

Here here - a USMB member interested excellent!

Also if the engines are out and you consider replacing head gaskets you could use a non EGR head on that side. But no point in going with the higher mileage one.

Since yours doesn’t have EGR you’re just removing anything EGR related since it doesn’t exists any more. Yes install non EGR intake. That takes care of the intake side The engine side there’s a hole in the back of the head. Insert like he just said or like for old gen put a metal plate over the head port with sealant, cut the original EGR tube and weld or seal it shut, etc. just needs blocked. its just the exhaust port side of the head so don’t over think it likes it’s hard or a big deal. I think that was my thought before I had ever seen it.

Water pump and crank should be easily repairable. Post a picture of any problem areas if you need help. Remove crank pulley and water pump and replace the water pump. A used pulley from any EA82 is easy to find or repair the one you have. Get a Subaru water pump gasket or use water pump tack on the gasket if you use a flimsy aftermarket gasket some of them are horribly thin and prone to leak. There are two style water pumps - you’ll want to look into which one you need While doing that repair Id install new timing belts, timing belt pulleys, cam seals, cam cap oring and crank seal and reseal the oil pump. get the cam crank and oil pump seals from Subaru. Better quality, I’ve seen those older generation Subaru aftermarket seals not fit well and leak . That’s a long list but it adds little time to the overall water pump job you already neeed to do and will be done right for reliability if you’re going to use and drive it. Timing belts have to come off to replace the water pump anyway so most of the labor is already done for all that stuff. and yes jt can all be done in the vehicle. remove the radiator gives a lot more space particularly for someone not familiar with subarus or EA82s. Otherwise it’s tight For engine - Use an EJ22. Simpler and easy to find parts. The ER27 has some very difficult to find parts. It’s a good engine otherwise but not easy or ideal for quite a few reasons. But if you have any questions I’ve owned like two dozens ER27s, and have a few right now.

EJ22 like he just said. Ej25 or EJ25 block with EJ22 heads or an 01-04 EZ30 provide good performance bumps but are more problematic for fitment issues.

I realize I’m unfamiliar and not doubting but why is it easier, is it plug and play? Is it easier for a first timer, or just for someone whose done it already? If it’s not close to plug and play it seems like wires require stripping and splicing?

That’s fine people interchange different Subaru wheel and tires sizes all the time. Just ensure the set of wheels and tires are the right size.

Used tires are tricky - there's too many cheap people in some areas willing to pay insane prices for used tires. And around here I've seen numerous used tires with tons of tread be dangerously old - like 10+ years. Those are prone to leak, blow out, and are HORRENDOUS in the snow. I'd favor a new tire unless you can get a decent deal locally on a tire and it's a decent brand and not too old. Each tire has a 4 digit date stamp on it - learn how to find it (first two digits are the week and last two the year - it was manufactured). So a 1017 is a tire that was manufactured in October of 2017. I wouldn't buy anything more than 2 years old. I'd like to get at least 2 years out of it - so it's pushing 5 years which is old unless it's a top shelf Michellin or Nokian which I doubt is what you'll end up with when bargain hunting. I've seen cheap brands and the inexpensive wal mart tires cause winter wrecks and show signs of materials degradation after 2 years - not worth buying used.

I was right next to you yesterday in McHenry catching some yellow perch and pickerel. Replacing one tire is no big deal if you use your head. 1. If they're not crazy different just put the new tire up front and rotate the other three consistently until the front wears down to match. most of those 90's stuff around here in the mountains wear quicker in the front anyway so doing so will eventually mean the "new" tire will wear quicker and match the other three in time. in general the "driven" tire will be the smaller front tire - so the front "driven tire" will match the rears and the new, larger front tire won't matter. That's a slight over simplification but it's reasonable for these purposes. That's also why some tire shops will install one new front and one new rear and can get away with that on non-LSD vehicles. But i don't recommend that as it's too complicated for rotational and long term use but it is a ghetto work around to some extent. Oddly,, just replacing one like i said is simpler and works. 2. Buy a used tire that's not quite new tread depth. 3. FWD fuse can be left indefinitely. It's a nonisssue no matter what some people like to say about it. Brand doesn't matter and slight clutch slippage doesn't matter - in some sense the clutches/differentials are providing and absorbing slippage all the time - every time you nudge the steering wheel, every time the ambient temps change tire pressures, any pressure loss in a tire over time that's more than the others - etc. It's not as big of a deal as it's made out to be. It is a big deal if you nonchalantly ignore it and take this as a excuse to be ignorant and not do anything. But you're asking and open to options - you'll be fine if you pay attention. And let's assume worst case scenario and you do damage the clutches - you have zero dollar repair options. use the FWD fuse or wire in a switch to control it so you can flip between FWD and "locked" AWD in the winter. I do it to my 4EAT Subaru transmissions like yours just for increased functionality. It's easy - one wire - and gives you more control - and is incidentally a "free" work around for torque bind. That won't happen - but I'm just saying if it did - you'd still have zero cost options!

Scan for engine codes or pending codes - post numbers here Check vacuum hoses, PCV hoses for any leaks or disconnected or cracks - if the brake booster isn’t fully seated it won’t start - too big of a vacuum leak. Check for any disconnected wires from valve cover or other previous work. Check plugs and wires again. Compression should be within 20% of one another. You’re over the compression difference threshold but 135 should start. But is it a legit 135? To ensure good compression results the throttle should be open and use a power source besides the battery (jumper to a other car or power pack, etc). Although a prime condition battery does work just fine. The last cylinder can test less than the 1st if the battery is getting drained from the first three cylinders tests. Was the throttle open and power source consistent? Ideally each cylinder is tested 2-3 times to verify results.

Thanks, it doesn't show on mobile.

Thanks for that pdf, excellent resource. He was able to replace it without much trouble?

If you’re in a rust prone area these are beastly. I’ve had the ball pull completely out of the socket before and then it takes hours to chisel away the fused rusty socket shell out of the knuckle. I use chisels and drill/drill bits to get all those chunks out. I can’t tell if yours is that bad - it’s not very common for them to be that bad, so I wouldn’t think it is. but if it is no tricks you read on the internet will get it out except heat and work and sweat. Soaking won’t get to the inner fuse welded shell and the “tools” suggested online will just break. I’ve broke a few of those said ball joint tools They’re a joke on really bad ones. Metal shears thread strips, etc Where your arrow is pointing for #2 is a ridge where the ball joint sits flush. I’ve had really good luck on bad ones by pounding the living day lights out of that ridge with a cold chisel snd heavy mini sledge. The idea is to get the chisel in between the ball joint lip and knucle. once you get any tiny gap at all - which looks like it may be starting somewhat - start trying to get any angle you can DOWN on the ball joint. it’s a horrific process of many hits and misses before it’ll start to gap and walk downwards I would guess yours isn’t as bad as the worst ones I’ve seen so keep at it and you’ll likely get it.

Assuming clear title, no accidents, no rust, original paint - $4k-$7. I haven't seen people clamoring for special edition EA81 wagons. True - there aren't many examples but the few that exist like the ski team edition, or rare coupes don't seem to outperform low mileage, original paint and other typical old Subaru collector highlights.

When I orient the connector on passengers and drivers side the same way and look at both - the red and black wires are on opposite sides. So I assume a previous shop wired in a new connector and swapped the wires? I’ll swap the wires a little later today.

It looks to have a new pigtail spliced in. Is there a way to test for sure if it’s wired backwards? I guess if I compare with a multimeter to the passenger side? But I’m not sure what I’m testing since the DRLs work. Maybe I’m looking for which is ground and see if they’re switched? I’ll see if I can test for ground snd see if the wires look different in anyway.

Friends 09 Impreza. *ALL* other lights work and new bulb. When the low beams are turned on the drivers side low beam doesn’t come on, the DRL stays lit. The DRL is on all the time. searched other forums but wading through 3,000 simple headlight threads is proving futile Im guessing (hoping) the shop installed the wrong bulb and it’s not working right, I’m looking at it tomorrow morning. Does anyone know if that’s possible - install wrong bulb ? New bulb installed recently by a shop (hence why I’m guessing wrong bulb) Pigtail looks pristine and headlight assembly looks normal no cracking or water/condensation in the fixture.