idosubaru

If you remove it I'd have a new gasket on hand as the original can often be 'swelled' upon removal and not want to seat very well when reinstalling. Don't know - I've never had that style be problematic, I've cleaned a couple but no change and no confirmed problem with that valve to begin with. But if they just open and close to intake air they may be prone to the same issues as others.

1. how low was the pressure? 2. have you followed up after some time to check the pressure in case there's a leak? 3. how long have you driven since pumping up the tires? My first post was assuming you've checked the tires and given it plenty of driving time to reset....

1. Replace transponder in the offending tire - battery is dead. It's 13 years old - not a surprise the batteries are dying. 2. Car is new to you - so the possibility exists that the previous owner installed a different wheel(s) with different, unmarried sensors. If that was the case then they simply need married to the car - Subaru does it for like $60 - $120 to reprogram all of them. Do you know enough about this car to discern if one of those is more likely that the other? But for that much money, on a new to you car, and unknown sensors/batteries that are likely to fail in the near future - you might be better served replacing them all and reprogramming them to your vehicle. With a little effort you can find amazon sensors for much cheaper than the $$$ original Subaru units. They're longevity probably won't be 10 years though - so you might want Subaru if you're the type of person who can't stand a light on the dash and plans to keep the car 10+ years.

NO RUST!!!!! FTW!!!!!!!

If it stalls when letting off the gas, at like a stop sign/stoplight, I'd look into the idle controller. If it's totally random with no codes or other symptoms, I'd swap MAF first. The only non-code stalling 90's EJ I had was a MAF sensor. Went months intermittently stalling/no-starting. Cam/crank sensor swapped - no change. After like 6 months it tossed a MAF code, swapped and it was golden.

Oh you don't have a 22mm? A 7/8" is a small amount larger than 22mm, would probably work as long as it doesn't round off the bolt because it's a little big. if the bolt is fresh metal and not damaged/rounded/rusty the 7/8" should work if it's not a loose fitting chinese piece.

What nut? The crank pulley is held in place by a bolt that is still the same size posted earlier in this thread: A 3/8" socket wrench is waaaaay too small - put a 2-3 foot pipe over the handle. It's a huge steel bolt, the crank isn't aluminum, it's never corroded - you can't strip it unless you tried. It's the only subaru bolt i've never seen stripped. So give it a lot of torque. Another tricky part is *locking the engine in place* - if the tool you're using to hold the engine in place is bending or moving then some of your load is being wasted there rather than transfered to the bolt. Use a stout screw driver in the flex plate and make sure it locks in tight. I usually watch it rest against the bellhousing to make sure it's all seated how I want it before giving it the full torque. Remember it's 150 ft-pounds. That's 150 pounds of force at a 1 foot distance from the center. If you have a pipe/wrench/handle that's 2 feet away from the crank bolt, including losses you're going to need to pull on it 80-100 pounds to reach 150 ft/lbs torque. If you use an 3/8" socket wrench with an 8" handle you need to pull 300 pounds (with losses)

I would guess the upper strut mounts are bent. I guess maybe the strut is bent, that's not uncommon with front struts in a collision. You could swap struts from side to side. If it rubs *on the same side* then it's an issue with the suspension/body. if it rubs *on the opposite side* then it's an issue with the strut assembly. What year/make? Why was it all apart - for a lift, an accident, maintenance...? Is the car rusty?

Some BFGs and frequent “off road” type tires are good brands to look into - theyve got some good tires and often get a ton of snow/trashy road feeeback on subaru forums.

I agree 100%. I suggested that at the beginning of my diatribe. “Buy inexpensive tires and replace sooner”. I’d still avoid no names or low end wal Mart for snow duty. I’ve seen them horrible after just 2 years if they’re parked outside in a sunny area on other peoples cars. I mean horrendous. Wish I would have taken pictures with the tire date stamps. That’s dangerous up here where people have no idea how bad they could be and sometimes don’t have much money Definitely a good fit. I didn’t mean anything as a one size fits all solution. I was describing a key point that isn’t available elsewhere online. As you said There are other factors and good fits out there.

To further moosens point - waiting is good. if I need it for snow I like to buy them I’m the late fall right when snow is falling so I’m getting fresh tread on snow. I want to maximize tires towards winter use not summer. I’ll run bad tires in the summer until winter but I’ve got multiple subarus so I can leave that one sit if it’ll see rainy days. but if they’re needed they’re needed.

You get what you pay for to some extent. There’s really no short answer to this rabbit hole topic. short answer - read inordinate amount of reviews, or buy michellin or buy a cheaper tire and plan to replace it every 2-3 years for better rain/snow traction (explanation below) long...... tire feedback and understanding in general is at about a 7 year old level. I’ve never heard one good tire discussion in person or even on a car forum that’s backed by even a tiny bit of data and makes sense. Anecdotes and opinions everywhere that have no technical design basis and usually don’t line up with reality. I’m fine with some of that, but this topic is nearly devoid of it entirely. I had to dig into research to learn something helpful and practical. If you want a great tire the rest of your life and to never think about it again buy Michelin. They are great tires all around, nearly everything they make is good. They’re well respected and ranked as a company, and generally hire experienced decorated engineers/leaders without bragging about it, so it’s not a surprise they’re products are good either. It’s all about materials engineering and what they’re putting into the tires to protect them from UV and oxygen degradation. That’s problematic for a variety of reasons - mostly no one is talking about it and it’s unknown. Think about toys, tools, anything left outside that’s plastic or rubber. It degrades. I could make a huge list. Those materials, particularly cheap or not intended for outdoor use, degrade fast in sunlight and exposure. Who hasn’t experience cracked and broken dried out brittle plastic/rubber handles, Tools, Toys, pools, sleds, planters, etc left outside in the summer sun? we left high quality made in the USA plastic snow sleds from the 1970s out last summer and they fell to pieces. They were flawless without a crack for 40 years and one summer of exposure killed them. tires do the same thing. Go to Florida and find craigslist tires that have sat outside - HOLy smokes they can look like the Grand Canyon even with 90% tread and two years old. And they will SUCK in the rain and snow up here. I’ve seen it multiple times. Even on gravel they’ll slide around with full tread because they’re so dried out and hard. It’s like having Big Wheels (remember those?!) tires on your car, the ABS won’t even work normal in the rain. It’s even unhelpful to leave tires in the same Position for extended periods of time for a few echnical materials and exposure reasons. That’s why there is significant documentation on tire life at the NHTSA and in Canada. and why RV crowd and others cover their tires. That’s what happens to tires as they age. Manufacturers treat the compounds to prevent this degradation process. My guess - is that cheaper tires use less of these preventative chemicals, compounds, and manufacturing processes. My guess may be wrong regarding the causative reasoning but I’ve seen the outcome numerous times no matter what is causing it. And it’s always cheaper tires. A cheap tire can perform just as good as an expensive tire in year one or two. After that the difference can escalate fast. I’ve seen numerous examples of cheap tires (was mart cheapies are particularly bad) showing cracking in less than two years and sliding all over the snow. geneal Altimaxs tires are a great example as they’re loved by Subaru crowd and forums. they’re decent tires and cheap - but have weak sidewalls and degrade by year two. I’ve seen 4-8 of them with bulging sides but live in an area with bad potholes. I’d recommend them in areas with better roads. They perform okay later in life in snow, they’re better than most cheap tires or no names for sure and they’re not cracking early. But snow traction suffer by year two. and I’ve had to convince people I’m trying to help - who don’t believe me - “look at all that tread, they passed inspection, you got to be kidding me, they’re not old”...that I’m right and no one else they’re talking to knows what they’re talking about. Good grief that’s not easy beduse literally noon is aware of tire life span and the driving factors behind it additionally people have various levels of snow experience and tolerance. Someone living in flat rural Ohio with no traffic who gets to work from home when it snows easily raves about the same tire that would kill someone who needs safer tires in a fast urban or mountainous area that never gets plowed and they have to go to work. again skewing reviews and opions all over the place. the Altimax tires are decent but not for more than 2 years for me on a car I need to rely on in the snow. I drive nasty unmaintained mountain roads with horrid grades. They’re good but degradation doesn’t go unnoticed here like it did before I moved to a rural mountain property. *** The huge issue here, is that most online reviews happen in that first year window before any degradation happens. Whatever they do in manufacturing isn’t as likely to impact reviews. So those low possibility of seeing the technical aspects of tire quality bare themselves out in tire reviews. But I’ll look for hints of it when reading them. so we have no good data to go on. Tire materials and ingredients are unknown. Reviews are made by people who don’t know 1% of what I just said and they make the reviews before experiencing issues....and they usually then blame the car “too little weight in the rear”, “4WD is getting old”, “this brand sucks in the snow”...or some other invalid assumption. All of which I’ve heard numerous times form people POed at their poor performing car (which is really tire issues) sorry for the diatribe. The only brand tire I’ve seen that consistently shows great performance across all seasons for 4+ years is Michellin. I haven’t gotten into perellis - I don’t buy them and no ones car I’ve ever worked on has them. Other tire companies make great tires too but it’s hard to pick them out because some are less stellar. So read lots of reviews if snow traction is bad. I buy high end snow tires (XIce or Nokian, based on Canadian research, the low end ones degrade faster as well) and inexpensive all seasons. If I had to buy one all season and drive it in the winter I’d lean towards michellin all seasons, unless some raging number of reviews and price lured me to try something else.

Well done bumping the oldest dated thread on USMB! Lol

Yep, all EA are simple, I thought there was only one rear caliper. so yes swap EA82 style if it exists or do the rear ebrake conversion rear Nissan caliper, but don’t use the ebrake.

Are you sure there are two styles? I’d love to hear more if you got links. They’re so simple snd few changes I thought all rear EA82 was the same. Maybe early 85/86s are different? With those old cars I’d guess they’re mis-labeling kits between EA81 and EA82 or confusing the early EJ/EA overlap.

Okay, Got it. Gathered that from other forums though they were vague. If not probable, it seems possible to do this. Woah nuts - 50% fueling swings must surprise folks and take them awhile to figure out first time they see it. I’ve programmed some and work in binary and hex so while I suck at coding I’m familiar with it enough to be careful and dangerous. Lol

Am I doomed eliminating P0420 on a Tribeca?! Ha! I’ll be doing only 05+. Can I copy and revert to the original ROM if I run into issues?

05+. 04 and earlier the extender works for the 0420. Thanks. There has been a lot of debate about that which I looked into it before asking. The 0420 can be turned off separately without impacting the rest of the rear O2 functionality. It’s like a separate routine or “in parallel” rather than “in series” as a visual aid. At least that’s where I landed on reviewing what’s known.

Agreed. Except when you mail someone stuff and they never return it. I’d only do it for long term active members now unfortunately. That code is precisely what I want this for. I should have done this 10 years ago.

Awesome. I don’t expect it to be easy. Will familiarize myself with it before I give it a go.

Subaru says discontinued. I didn’t see one listed on rockauto lots of front stuff, no rear. I’d scour aftermarket next. Sometimes it helps to search for 1988 XT6, same rear caliper as the XT but search won’t show all the Forester “XT” stuff.

did you try rock auto and google ? I would be surprised if I didn’t have a used caliper sitting around but they’re probably everywhere, cheap, and pointless to ship.

Wow. That’s perfect. I can learn and figure stuff out, that’s a great starting point and I’ll pick up some better search words from it too. I’m in no rush and not trouble shooting. Take your time. I get it.

Awesome LT - that is very generous of you. PM sent. Thanks for the tips. It appears all/most of the common tactrix cables work on 05-09 nonturbo stuff which will be what i'm doing to start. You used Rom Raider to kill codes? So I'll need to find the update/definitions for specific vehicles via searching/boards or are they commonly available? HAHHA - fourteen codes - that's amazing!

2005+ non-turbo's - what cable and software do I need to do some basic editing of the ECU tune - like adjusting/removing check engine codes? I think I look into Tactrix and Romraider....what am I missing? A few listings show Tactrix cables compatible with 05-09 Subaru's - is that just old listings that don't include newer uses, or those cables dont' work on newer Subarus? Other forums are flooded so searching is leading to many rabbit trails...anyone know the basics?