idosubaru

i'm assuming you know you'll want to install new timing belts and check all the pulleys on this? this is an interference engine, if the belt breaks the motor is toast...well unless you want to repair bent valves and possibly damaged pistons/cylinder walls. 10 years old, the cogged idlers are rarely smooth by now and one other pulley may be weak as well. check them out. nice to install a new belt with the motor out anyway. i usually just get the ebay timing kits with all new tensioner and pulleys, but they're $300 which i understand isn't everyones cup of tea. if this is an automatic and you've never done a soob before make sure you know how to seat the torque converter or you'll be calling that same place looking for a transmission! good luck!

you'll completely agree and understand when you compare the spare with a real tire side by side.

Order the PCV and thermostat from any of the online subaru vendors or get them locally. nothing to check with the diff, just change the gear oil in it.

since i like reliable vehicles i will give you my bent on that side of things: with the trans out replace the throw out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch and pressure plate and have the flywheel machined ideally. also, buy two new throw out bearing retaining clips from Subaru, they always have them in stock since they're common to even later gen vehicles. as for the engine a timing component overhaul would be great for reliability. ebay kits can be had for under $100, a great deal including all new tensioners, pulleys and timing belts. replace the water pump, cam seals, cam orings, oil pumps gasket and oring and crank seal while the timing belts are off. at this point it's kind of pointless to replace the belts given that the pulleys are now 20+ years old and devoid of grease. they seize and ruin belts old and new. replace the PCV valve and Thermostat with Subaru only. Definitely make sure the tstat is Subaru, the after market ones are junk - you can visually see how weak they are side by side. go over battery cable ends, the alternator plug, radiator hoses and clamps and check the radiator condition. fluids changes are good too.

wow, with all those codes i'd start with trying to diagnose those. i doubt all of those codes just showed up at the same time for no reason, some more information might help us help you. if the wire or power is cut to the Duty C solenoid, then it will be "locked" so to speak. that's how those of us manually control lock up. just cut one wire and put a switch in. has any recent work been done? sounds like maybe a harness isn't seated properly or corroded? does the ATF or POWER light blink 16 times at start up?

Oh wow! That really lifts it a lot. Is that just OBW struts giving it a lift? Are you sure the OBW springs are different, someone else said they were the same. Looks like you probably had a good look at them. His is a 2nd generation legacy so it'll be a direct swap. Thanks!

same here and i still haven't fixed that yet. need to get on that.

yep good point, could be an aftermarket t-stat in there. though it would be odd to have it replaced now.

we posted at the same time, this is what i was looking for. i was figuring that wouldn't make sense and the clutch type LSD is the only one i'd consider. if the trans ever needs to come out or i somehow have lots of free time (yeah right) i'm down with this.

i could have told you that before you got the car! seriously these guys will hook you up. get an FSM, someone on here can probably send or copy the page you need. get the rebuild kit or weber and ask specific questions. how about the SPFI conversion? didn't GD or something do a complete write up, step by step for that? that could probably be done for under $200. better performance, gas mileage, cheaper, more reliable....what's there not to like?

does not sound normal at all. probably a good idea to flush the coolant and fill properly with the right mix. keep in mind messing with EJ engines coolant can be frustrating. they easily get trapped air bubbles and overheat. there's a bleeder valve on top the radiator on most of them to facilitate letting air out while filling with coolant. replacing the thermostat is easy too. use Subaru only on this part, the after market stuff is cheezeball and junk here. by "pegged" he means reaches a certain point and never fluctuates from there.

the nut should be easy, just grab any other nut off the car that looks the same, make sure it fits the threads and take it with you to go by another at the hardware store. those bolts are usually all over the place, usually there's more of the same nut on the same light fixture. as for the gasket i'm better that's not available except from Subaru. have you called any parts places? call some yards in the rust free areas of the country and see if they have some used ones. they usually get really dry rotted and damaged from rust around here. wonder if you could repair the gash?

wow, nice and welcome to USMB. as for the idle, these things have an idle air controller valve (IAC, AIV). remove it and clean it out really good, give it power to make sure it works. if that doesn't work get another, but they don't fail very often usually just dirty inside. the power steering pumps often just need an oring at the base of the reservoir. an easy 50 cent fix. just find a generic oring off the shelf that fits. if it runs fine after jumping (and removing jumper cables), then the alternator is probably fine, it's running of the alt output. look at the battery and clean the battery cable end links. they often need replaced anyway by now, very corroded, dirty, or loose. i think you'll find out that's not a GL Hatch, that is a sedan. a hatch would originally have an EA81 in it, where an 88 sedan has an EA82 in stock form.

before i worked on my own cars i had this happen to my XT6. wouldn't go into any gear at all - engine running or not, clutch cable/pedal seemed to operate fine. i don't know what happened but a basic clutch job fixed the problem.

no kidding, thanks a ton larry, that basically makes this really simple then! great!

yep, should be an EA81 with gears, no belts. how many miles? was it not leaking when you first started driving or you think you just didn't notice it at first? the EA82's have a coolant passage in the intake manifold that is prone to leak. the EA81's might be the same? if so, check that first, it's much simpler to replace than heads. use a Subaru only gasket on this one. also EA82 head gaskets are super duper simple to replace in the car, yanking the motor is a complete waste of time unless you need clutch work or something else like that. highly unlikely you'll need any block work (mains/bearings). and if it's a non-turbo it's also unlikely you'll need new heads. just have your tested and pressure tested. if you do need head gaskets do both. the EA82/ER27 crowd uses Fel-Pro Permatorque gaskets like a champ. they don't need retorqued = awesome.

woah, doesn't run at all? bizarre indeed. it turns over though? i'd be skeptical too. $1,000 - WOAH, are you sure he didn't quote for an EJ25 or a 99 EJ22? don't buy that one, i got one i'll drive to you for hundred less!! that is insanely high for an EJ22. what state are you in, CA i think? EJ25's are usually $1,000+ EJ22's are usually easy to find for $500-ish unless you get into the 99+ EJ22's, but you're not. and of course they can be had much cheaper. if you have to source further and have it shipped.

i've swapped a rear diff on older gen stuff by just dropping the rear diff, knocking the axles off and installing another one (that's how install LSD's on my XT6's). so on those the axles could be removed without doing anything to the hub but removing the axle nut. EJ's the same or no way? bearings = easy - really? sounds complicated to me, i keep avoiding it.

really? anyone else got follow up on that?

that's awesome you guys see each other driving around, that's funny to me. be cool to live close to more board members (particularly XT6 folks too).

since you can't get either i'm assuming you got all the head bolts out? double check all head and any exterior bolts that may hold it to the block (bracket, intake, etc). if the heads are seized i use a 2x4 or piece of wood and a BFH. start pounding away around the perimeter of the head, working your way around kind of like separating a bellhousing/engine. just keep working around and it'll come off. sometimes on a really stuck one i've needed more than one piece of wood as the end of the first gets mashed and splintered...get another and keep wailing. since it's both sides this probably isn't your problem, but here's how it's gone for me before...even after wailing some wood: Gary: "i know i removed all the freaking head bolts" Back of mind: "check them any way" Gary: "seriously, i've only done this like a hundred times" then i realize i forgot a head bolt.

i like what JCE said - if the axles appear the same, and the old axle is no different im' not sure what getting more axles is going to do for you. if you're wondering, save the trip to the store and just try the other side, they are identical left to right and i think maybe you did try that. if it's the same then the axle is not the problem (which we already expect). so the geometry needs to be checked - hubs, trans mount, something has to give. even if the "drop it to the ground" method worked to hook up to the trans i still would'nt want to drive it like that, something is definitely wrong if that's what it takes to install an axle. EJ axles are piece of cake to replace.

me too.

excellent suggestion. very common to have grease on the exhaust or engine from a blown boot. if the axles are relatively new it could have old grease still on it as well. it'll get bad enough to smoke and smell it in the cabin while you're driving too.

i've interchanged numerous auto/manual axles both ways, always assumed they were interchangeable like the XT6 - never had a problem yet.