idosubaru

might help to explain why you're checking. rarely do people check compression unless they have a reason too - what's going on? that difference between the cylinders is no big deal. but i'm not sure what the SPFI is supposed to have. those numbers are really low for an MPFI so maybe they're different? is the engine turning over fast...or slow and lugging (weak battery)? compression will depend largely on RPM - the FSM even shows a graph of RPM verses compression ratio. were the plugs all out and throttle propper open when cranking?

if you're really against the EA82 the EA81 should do just fine. if you have much mountain driving and steep grades to climb, that might really hamper the EA81. then again - just keep it up in the higher rpm range! exhaust work does suck. i guess the EJ manifolds don't line up to the EA stuff? i have both lying around and they look rather close, but i've never compared. good luck and have fun

important one: trying to get a feel for mechanical verses electrical. did it run right before you pulled the motor? as long as you keep the same style MAF you should be fine i think...yours is right around the cross over year so just make sure it's the flapper style (earlier) or hot wire style (later). if it's a spider manifold XT it'll be the later hot wire style. i believe that's even the same on the XT6 as well. know anyone in colorado that would lend you some sensors? i would if you were close.

hurry up and install the engine before you think about cleaning it up or fixing it!!!! just kidding. were you adding fluid or not to the transmission? that's the litmus test i'd use. if you never added fluid for the last 3 years and 50,000 miles then there's obviously nothing to worry about in the transmission. i can't see yours, but it sounds common to me. seems most manual trans i'm pulling have that, there's a nice solid wall of dust coated gunk on the trans bellhousing. i wouldn't worry about it from the sounds of it.

your best bet now, since you're getting into gray area (the first one was black and white!), is to look nationwide on ebay and autotrader. that will give you an idea of what the cars are actually selling or listed for elsewhere. you can even narrow that down to the northeast if you so desire. expect to pay more if you're wanting to stay local and close, but that will give you a good idea of what to pay. i do that all the time. i don't put much stock in them, but hitting up the online pricicing places isn't bad either, only takes a second. you just need a general idea to filter things through.

i'd swap in another MAF and TPS to check. they don't really fail enough to warrant the expense of a new one, pick up a used on and give it a whirl. no check engine light? has it ever run right since the rebuild? is it sporadic or does it always do the same thing?

WHAT!?!? an EJ25 with rod knock and a bad headgasket - i don't believe it!?!? just kidding..... yes there is TONS of information on the forum. it would be best to read through it - there are too many options and different ways of doing it - but yes it's possible and it's easy. tip - the search function does not work well with 3 letter searches. try to keep them with 4 or more letters. and if you have a 3 letter item to search you can attempt to use * as a place holder - like: *the.....or....the*...something like that. but you should just be able to type: "swap" or "EJ22 swap" and come up with a bazillion threads. click on the arrow next to SEARCH and use the Advanced search - you only need to search the new generation forum for this.

drive it and see for yourself. the discrepancy between the two is large enough that it will become apparent rather quickly. pre-mark a particular area/road as you're driving to wherever the car is, then drive that same length and see what the odometer shows. only take a mile or two to figure it out.

keep in mind that unlike your 95 Legacy, newer Subaru's have interference engines. if the timing belt breaks you will incur major internal engine damage and high repair/replacement costs. that being said - you can not skip or go cheap on timing belt intervals. i would plan on replacing the timing belt as soon as you get it unless you can document a recent replacement - they are 105,000 mile replacement items on most subaru's. the 6 cylinder H6 has a timing chain, so disregard that if you get one of those. all the others have belts though. that's a $500-$1,000 repair depending where and what all you have done (more than likely at least one timing pulley and the water pump should be replaced at the same time in my opinion). head gasket, piston slap, and torque bind. search for all of those terms in the new generation forum here and be on the look out for them as you look at various models. these are significant things to be aware of that you should be aware of when searching. you need to know what they are and how to look for them. tons of information is already on the board here and on the internet. there's "Search" button up top - go to advanced search and select the "New Generation" forum and read up on these items. expand your market as much as possible, i've flown and driven a car home to get a good deal. well worth it to get the best deal - financially and mechanical condition (one owner private sales are the best). dealers know nothing about the car and charge a premium. that's unnecessary for such a new car, there's hardly any service or inspection that a 2000+ subaru needs - particularly in the price range you're talking about. next time i'm tempted to buy something from florida and drive it home - far away from the rust belt! so in this case, the known maintenance of a one owner private seller is almost always better than the unknown history and zero benefit "checkup" they claim they do. which they do - but is unecessary on a such a new vehicle. i agree - that seems really high in price.

yeah - sounds like you have torque bind. if you attend to it now - you might get rid of it and avoid a transmission repair. i'd search for "torque bind" on the new generation forum here and read up about it a bit - that's probably what you have. it's caused by mismatched tires or improper towing. there's a small chance it's CV related, but i doubt it. any history of CV axle or boot issues/replacement?

this sounds more likely - i was even skeptical that it would really be the cable - it shouldn't do that "at one speed" thing. getting to the needle is going to be far more work, one of those things that is a lot more annoying the first time you do it.

good job boss! took off the entire week - wowsers, enjoy it!

the heat shields can be welded keeping in mind they are aluminum and the exhaust is cast iron. hose clamps will fix them too. chance you won't really be able to remove them without damage (rusty bolts), so welding off the car might be tough. for the check engine light - just pull the codes. get a scanner for $40, plug it in and do it yourself and then be able to do any other OBDII car in the world (most since 1997) for the rest of your life (basically i'm saying it's a great investment/tool!). or have autozone/advanced/any other place that does it - pull the codes for free. do us (yourself!!!) a favor - if you have the codes pulled, make certainly you right down the actual code it gives you. don't listen to their interpretation or what they think it is, suggestions, etc. we want the exact code in the ECU. nipper has you covered - the bouncing test you spoke of definitely makes the struts sound suspicious.

john (from KY) also swapped newer powered seats into a younger vehicle. said it needed power, but i can't recall about fitting it. i have like 2003 Limited Edition heated/power seats in my garage. would a picture of the rails or something help nipper?

i'm EA81 illiterate but can you remove the pipe and cut a plate to bolt over the opening? that's what i do for EJ EGR valve openings.

a failed compressor, compressor clutch, or a leak are two likely failure areas. a friends jeep lost air and i recharged it and it's held up for a month now. i've replaced a number of compressors. it's actually really easy. unbolt one one - install new (or used) one and charge with two cans of refrigerant. did a friends honda accord many moons ago this way (used compressor and some refrigerant) a few years ago and it's still blowing cold. i have never had this happen yet, but if the old compressor lost pieces in the system then that's bad.

a failed compressor, compressor clutch, or a leak are two likely failure areas. a friends jeep lost air and i recharged it and it's held up for a month now. i've replaced a number of compressors. it's actually really easy. unbolt one one - install new (or used) one and charge with two cans of refrigerant. did a friends honda accord many moons ago this way (used compressor and some refrigerant) a few years ago and it's still blowing cold. i have never had this happen yet, but if the old compressor lost pieces in the system then that's bad.

this needs to go back to the dealer or body shop. this is not "a warn out" sensor issue. most subaru's from the early 90's still have their original SRS sensors, they don't fail typically. it's not still under warranty?

get them working all in a similar feel and fashion and i'd bet they'll be fine. i've done the same thing before...MAN is that annoying too! and yes i've seen the different kinds as well - although i've never seen two different kinds in the same engine? i'd guess someone has been in there before. any seized parts probably were your issue...at least from the few experiences i've had. i've torn down motors that i knew which cylinders had noisey HLA's - to find them seized. but i haven't seen it that often either so there are plenty of failure modes and wearing styles i'm not familiar with either. personally there's enough HLA's out there that i'd be tempted to replace any that aren't in decent shape.

sorry, that's in my XT6. 2" seems meager now after looking at your legacy but i guess it's better than nothing. actually i can inflate the air struts for another 1.5-2" so i guess technically i can end up with a bit more than 2" with the lift and air ride together - similar to what you're doing with the outback struts + blocks. keep up the good work, that should be a great ride. you don't expect too much stress on any of the driveline? any wear items say over 50k-100k miles?

make sure the bolts/nuts are all removed and everything is free to come out. i's easy to forget one. but - the engine can be a brute to separate some times. just keep working a chisel around the gaps. there are dowel pins between the engine and trans, they can be hard to separate. just keep working your way around the existing gap you have. the seaparation should be evident around the bottom as well before it'll come free - not just the top (that's the "easy" part!). everything has to work out too - motor mounts have to be out of the holes, dowel pins have to free up, etc. some PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Deep Creep on the dowel pins may help (WD40 not a good alternative). just make sure everything is properly detached...it's easy to forget one thing.

oh man, stand back, his thinking juices are flowing!!

both EA82's = awesome! you're in good shape. you can basically do whatever you want. the transmission would be the easiest part of the swap. bolts right up, just swap everything over as it is in the donor car. take pictures or make drawings if you think you won't remember something. the engine and transmission will both come out together. so if you want to go that route, just yank them both out as a lump with an engine lift. install together as well. that makes it a good deal easier in some ways.

on most subaru's (i'm not familiar with justy's) when the ECU is set to diagnostic mode and the key is turned - it cycles the fuel pump on once every second and gives a solid squirt of fuel. so if you wanted to do this the easy way on one of those, you would just pull the fuel pump outlet or pull it past the fuel filter (then it's getting filtered!?!) - and turn the key on (green connectors connected for diagnostic mode). all you'd need is a knife (to cut the hose). if it's carbed this won't be a possibility. finding the fuel pump relay is another option if you know where that is.

pull the fuel pump outlet and give 12 volts to the fuel pump.