idosubaru

i haven't had tons of warped rotors, but the ones i have had you could tell just by rotating the tires by hand. now, i'll admit that it was very small differences, but you could feel the tire "drag" at one point while turning it by hand. try to use the same stroke and speed/force and method of spinning while going around so you're sure to notice, mine was that light. but it was there. and typically you can tell which one it is in the fronts. the front drivers side will be obvious...if you "can't quite tell" it's probably because it's the other side. not sure on the rears, don't recall tracking those down though i did replace one before.

nope, that's not the idea. there are plenty of threads about that already, i wouldn't need to start another! typically far more than $1,000. thank you, that's exactly my point!!!!!!!!! copy that, good point to remember the FWD fuse is always there for towing, mismatched tires, etc. excellent, good to know. with the trans changes in 99, that complicates things.

the AWD rear components are no issue for me, that's not an issue at all. now, if FWD trans weren't available in 1999 then that's an issue, i did not know that.

neat thread kayakertom - has it driven fine since them? no reoccurences?

you could ask questions rather than assume you're right, in this case you are wrong. good luck finding a similar late model, low mileage honda/toyota FWD for $1,000 in excellent condition. i am not versed enough in those makes to do that, with Subaru's i can. i'm not looking for something "salable", i'm trying to help out a friend and he doesn't want to deal with torque bind, towing issues, matching tires and will never need AWD. i didn't know that. is that true, all 1996 and up auto's are AWD only?

well i'm of no help here, but how did the loose shifter cable cause this? i'm trying to understand what happened, since i'm a little weak on manual trans stuff.

thanks for the TCU input-output Josh. is that for 1999 model years? i'd likely stick to a FWD 1999 trans to make sure there's no surprises. it's up to my friend, since it's his car. but i'll be doing the work so want to make sure it's possible. for now i think he's staying AWD though. but i'll keep the mount in mind if he changes his mind. thanks for the wiring info, awesome! from those diagrams it doesn't appear the electronics is really much different at all? it doesn't differentiate between FWD and AWD? was that just for the AWD or FWD or is that for both like i think it is? thanks!

the bolt on receiver/hitches, they at least spread across the bottom of the car and bolt in place. you could bolt this on and add to it if necessary. weld it to the vehicle or weld more metal to the receiver/hitch and bolt that to the vehicle. someone just posted hitches on XT's at xt6.net and they have all sorts of metal extensions going back and being bolts under the car for extra mounting points. and they used *that* to tow other cars with, so using a receiver hitch seems much safer than that.

the EA82 is easy to work on. if it's a 3AT transmission then i'd avoid it like the plague. if it's a 4EAT trans then maybe. in the end...take the info and decide. i'd never want someone else to decide what im' driving!

i never mentioned gas mileage. this has nothing to do with gas mileage. for the record, the rear bits are easy to remove. the entire cross member, rear diff and driveshaft can be lying on the ground by removing less than 10 bolts, it's very easy. that's what i'm wondering, if the TCU's, like the ECU's are interchangeable? but if that's not the case i'd still need the wiring to be compatible between the two. i may swap in a FWD TCU in one of my AWD vehicles and see what happens just for giggles. i have a 1997 impreza OBS FSM, hopefully i can find it (it's on CD and i just moved) and compare the wiring diagrams.

EA82 is fine if you can get parts for it and work on it. it has timing belts and a number of timing pulley bearings that can all fail. the EA71 doesn't have those. so if parts are hard to get, then you may want to consider the EA71 since it doesnt' have all of that to worry about. the EA82 is a fine motor. auto trans is a bad idea too if parts are hard to find.

my friend had one shipped GA to california for $500 a few years ago. i think prices have jumped significantly since. another friend did about the same price...maybe it was $600 for FL to CO this past fall. is it driveable at all?

Is it possible to swap an auto FWD trans into an AWD vehicle? My buddy lives in Georgia and would rather not have AWD. Was wondering if this could be as simple as swapping trans or swapping trans and TCU? (don't care about the rear components, that's all easy).

you made a very, very good decision here. aftermarket cause lots of problems on all EJ series engines.

2.5's go at any time. if replaced properly it'll be trouble free from here on out. i'd rather have one go out if it'll be replaced under warranty, that's awesome. now you'll have no worries down the road.

i don't know what you guys got over there, but in the US no EJ's were interference before 1996. no EJ18's that i've heard of were interference, so i'd expect yours to be non-interference. there are threads about swapping heads on turbo motors and NASIOC may be a good place to search too.

this one wasn't an 88, but it was older, i think maybe an 87...late 80's...early 90's. i'm going from memory. what i read indicated his honda wasn't interference, maybe it was a civic and not an accord?

copy that, i posted that reply before ever seeing your second post....maybe another glitch.

Early 90's FWD Legacy sedan. only the calipers are of any use for a rear disc brake conversion?

you sure your internet connection wasn't freaky? i've thought mine "disappeared" before as well, but usually turns out that there are similar threads. or maybe.....do-do, do-do, do-do, do-do......

shouldnt' be too hard to peak around the engine bay, under the car and see what kind of damage was sustained. if they cut off the front and welded on a new front clip, that would be obvious unless they were looney in their attention to detail (high unlikely). don't mind the carfax - their nice, but just a tool. i've bought cars and seen the ALERT ALERT things. they make it seem as if the car is demon-possessed. for paying top-dollar then maybe it's important but looking for a deal, it's just information you need to use in conjunction with everything else so don't worry about it. yes a 1996 is NOT an inteference engine. i believe your 1988 honda is not either. i looked up a friends honda accord this fall and his was not interference. so that vehicle should be good to go with a new belt. he ended up selling it to the mechanic for $50 because the mechanic gave him the load of crap..."might have some serious damage in there...". mechanic probably put a new belt on in 1 hour and sold the car for $1,000.

can you post a picture? can you tell exactly where it's leaking from? you installed a new gasket on the thermostat housing right when you reinstalled it. could it be the hose?

have you at least checked the fluid level of the ATF?

in the states the 97 is going to have a 2.5. i would definitely get the 99 unless the 97 was a great deal and i had an extra motor lying around (which i do). auto or manual trans? make sure all the tires match. auto trans, look for signs of torque bind, check the fluids.

make sure the knock sensor connector and wiring is good.