ShawnW

Nice share. I like the car so far. Looks like they brought back the frame less windows for this model too.

The top of the pistons, and 8 bolt holes on the bellhousing are pretty quick identifiers.

Welcome Ian. Im here in Denver as well. Feel free to come show it off or schedule a free inspection.

Gauges are like 6 bucks if you take the cluster apart. I might have a cluster here too.

Smallcar.com sells a wiring instruction kit. I use a 2001 one and like it.

I source Brand new ones for $171. I can usually get a Reman from Subaru for less though, there was a "recall" part number for that era Outback, I am not sure if the 99 is part of that part description but if so they are typically under $100. I also have Denso reman ones for $149. They do have a $35 core charge which is the nice thing about the new one, no core or shipping your old one to me.

I use the Spitz page when I try to program anything. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#05%20legacy%20program%20remotes Not sure exactly where you are going wrong but are the instructions the same for yours as his page?

Is the idle smooth or rough?

Off and sitting there. I have been pulling the main fusible link to keep it from draining the battery while it sits.

Where I am lost, but also maybe found, is that nothing but the gauge is controlled by the one sender, and the computer and sensors use the other? Right?

I agree, run a tape measure across the tire front and back and see how it is.

I sell the carbs alone for $228.

Can't seem to narrow this down, maybe you guys can lend a hand. The car is a 93 Legacy AWD Auto. It drains the battery if left unattended. Runs the coolant fan on the drivers side continuously. When you start the car stone cold, the drivers cooling fan runs, and the temp gauge immediately goes to the normal position. Drive it a bit and the gauge goes to the top quite rapidly. Tried draining the coolant, it had stop leak chunks in it but was otherwise normal green coolant. Installed a known good used gauge sensor and the coolant temp sensor for the computer while I was in there with a brand new unit. No change.

Using a torque wrench would certainly verify that you have it right. 51 foot pounds is the spec I have always used for the EA series.

Sweet, that one looked BAD but not the worst I have seen. That would be the one where that part was gone from a brake shop losing it and not informing the customer.

I have a supplier like that. Or, I did and I couldn't stand it anymore. Its not worth it for a few bucks to mess with returns, tied up funds, etc.

Are you locking the engine from turning when you do? Something pinned thru the flywheel is usually best.

Just take the nut off and put the hitachi cable holder on it. Sometimes it helps to put a washer behind it too or even bend it a little as well, so that it doesn't hit the linkages on the side of the Weber carb.

Got me there.

Why take a trans with 100K out that works? Do a couple of drain and fills on it in the next 10K and be happy with a 100K one. The 70K mile gain might not be worth the effort and you could probably sell the trans you have.

Are you over 36,000 miles? Would be covered under warranty. Otherwise I can order you a new one at a wholesale price if you want to explore that email a parts request on my site linked below.

Dolly only. Or buy a different Subaru with a manual transmission so you can flat tow. For the price of a dolly you can often buy a different car.

Another vote for rod knock here. I have heard that way too many times. Just pull the drain plug and look at the oil. It will be a grey murky mess with shiny spots in it.

Just be firm at $1000 is my advice. If you already posted it without checking first, that's pretty unfair to the buyers. Getting people to show up, pay cash, tow it away promptly, etc is the challenge most of the time.

I see SVX's pretty regularly in the U Pull it yards. The 3.0 is probably easier as a car-part.com item or just buy a new one at the parts store.