ShawnW

I have a feeling it would do pretty well.

Did you ever solve this?

Agree. Subaru's design pulls the coldest air in from the outside. These usually pull hot air from the engine compartment. The only upgrade I have seen is a clean K&N or Perrin washable filter dropped into the factory air box and that's only if its serviced properly and the car is Turbocharged and tuned for it.

Pull both fans.

This is my favorite tool in the toolbox lately. Finally broke it after 5 years of professional use. As long as you don't ratchet it-it will last. I use a 3/8 breaker bar instead of a ratchet. http://asttool.com/detail_page.php?from_search=y&tool_number=200-10&total=28&offset=0&stype=searchbox&keywords=stud

Compressors are so cheap at a Pull A Part yard I haven't ever bothered with a rebuild.

80-84 wagon, coupe, sedan or brat all work. Hatch doesn't and Turbo has different line setups. Repair is usually easier by the time you pay shipping and lots won't ship a gas tank.

You need to go read the offroad FAQ page. Closing thread. Top of this forum. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=30

Soda blast and paint. Or powder coat.

I sell services here in my shop. Most people that need them do nothing themselves. They are cheaper than piecing out each item and thats why they are offered the way they are. A 30K is a 4 hour service. Its a deal if you haven't done everything yet. There is no fuel filter on a 2010-its in the tank technically. Included usually: Rotate and balance tires, check tire pressure Air filter Oil change Cabin air filter Battery test, clean posts, battery pads added Rear diff Front diff ATF (or gear oil in trans if its manual) fuel treatment (I use BG can) Brake and suspension check Brake fluid flush Clutch fluid replacement Coolant replacement (many 2010 models have the blue 105K fluid). It adds up in a hurry to buy them separate. It also pays to know the car and make them remove items from the list and subsequently the costs associated with them, if items aren't on the car (like fuel filter, antifreeze change, etc) above. Then the price should drop if the dealer is fair. Usually the tech will find something wrong with the car on a 30 K service that is covered under warranty too.

Excellent!

I ordered some like that from JcWhitney and the fit was "ok" for the version they make for an 82-87 Brat. The color was way off of factory but it was ok. On the 84 model there is a back section of carpet so it was obvious one was replaced and we were disappointed they didn't include or offer that back strip too.

How many miles on the car? Original radiator?

You mean Ej22's you have done in the car. The Ej251 and 3 sohc valve cover blocks the head bolts.

Still available from my supplier if you want the KYB's. On closeout but still stocked.

Overheating at highway speed or while in traffic are two different diagnosis. Fan, clutch fan or fan switch vs head gasket, thermostat, etc.

Snap a picture of it we can tell if its original/correct. I have a few lying around that might be right.

I would really do the gas tank. Its worth it but a lot of work.

Assuming the check engine light is off I would check the fuel pressure first, maybe replace the fuel filter if its from the donor car and not new.

I run a Subaru shop. Ive tried just about everything. I have had customers ask me to put a specific brand in and then later on they aren't happy. Autolite, Champion and Bosch seem to be less reliable in my experience. Furthermore, the Subaru genuine part isn't only available at Subaru. From my Supplier the original OEM plug for your car is actually cheaper than anything else offered. Its $2 each and it has always worked with no comebacks. Why argue with something that works for me (Former Subaru master technician), and the many members here that I have seen make unpaid endorsements for the product. I have beeh here since 1998 and I have seen this topic brought up over a hundred times in this and the older generation forums with the same resulting answer. I also like the Denso plugs but they are usually more expensive. I run these in the 96-99 Outbacks and 4 cam turbo engines only. Anything else gets the Standard or Iridium NGK.

Yes, but I never feel totally solid confident with this method like you get with reading it off the differential or ring gear.

That's cool! Terry Fryman?

Working on having a box of the new USMB shirts shipped out for the event and then making them available to everyone after the show by mail too. Will have order forms as well in case your size or color you prefer isn't in the box.

Are you referring to the 3 black and 1 orange O ring that are exposed when you split the case halves? The orange one hasn't changed since the 1990 (89) Legacy came out. The black ones are the same way I think. They use the same part for the oil pump o ring in early years too. I just bought some today if you want I can get the part numbers off the bags or ship you a set of them. 14 is quantity 3 and 16 is qty 1. (technically 14 is quantity 4 with the oil pump one). For your first rebuild, I would just order a full engine gasket kit from Subaru and see if you can challenge yourself to use every single piece.

I etch it into the case on the ones I disassemble or rebuild now. Just silly to not have a ratio or a part number that is specific to the ratio on the case. Frustrating. Id just pull the rear cover bolts off and plan on resealing the back plate to verify. (using ring gear stamping indicated above by Torxxx.)