ShawnW

Find a tapered punch. On the pass side of the engine bellhousing is a hole that is threaded about half way down the side of the bellhousing. Some cars a bracket bolted in here but most dont. Put the punch in there and put a 22MM socket on your breaker bar/long ratchet and hold the punch till you feel it lock into the flywheel teeth. This can be used to torque it down as well. Its plenty strong just be careful that you are putting your hands in a position that if the punch slips out of the teeth or the teeth break(never had this happen in 400 cars or more so far) you wont slam into something. The Subaru dealer tools are pronged tools that go into the harmonic balancer pulley (Crank pulley). They work but you need 3 different ones to date to do all Subarus.

You can check the squeek to isolate it by removing the ac and alt belts and starting the car for a short time. If the squeek continues its likely in the t-belt area. If it doesnt put one belt on at a time and try.

Hilarious. Thanks for that. But seriously who overheats it once and doesnt get it checked out first before continuing to drive it?

Its a lot of oil so I would say its the cam seals or that somebody poured oil onto the engine instead of into it.

Actually there are 2 banks of cylinders on the 4's as well. RH head is 1 and 3 and bank 1 and LH head is 2 and 4 and bank 2. ON those cars there is only one set of catalyst pipes being shared so its the first sensor that you see closest to the engine. On newer cars like the PZEV zero emissions cars, and 6 cyl cars (as early as the SVX) there are 2 sets of cats for each bank and such and this is what they were gearing up for with that description setup.

Carbon buildup in the head where the EGR pipe joins to it?

Most of the ones I do aren't to the point of devistation like you are saying. Most all of them are external leak and seeping. Not overheating yet. No damage has been done to the bottom end at that point. On a 2.2L when the head gaskets blows it does overheat like clockwork. Its the difference in the gasket material. (Which by the way is what Subaru would be using if they hadnt banned Asbestos materials in gaskets a few years back....maybe we are fighting something that isnt 100% Subarus fault but rather the change in material use requirements and the scramble they put the automakers thru with it. How many years of good gaskets of that old material did we have and then we switch and bam its bad?) On top of that who is stupid enough to overheat it more than once? Im sorry but I deal with enough dumb people in a day that I just cant stand people that ignore gauges and warning lights and then want it warrantied. Im a firm believer that the 2.2 (NA) is a better engine. I also believe that the demand of the consumer for power, mileage and a big heavy car with a ton of seat heaters and dual sunroofs and power leather seats and the lot is the reality. To move that much car you need a 2.5. I built my Vanagon with a 2.2L but I put in better pistons, delta cams, decked the heads, etc. That kindof equalized it to a 2.5 but its not a motor that would be able to be consumer friendly. I built a 97 OBW a 2.2L conversion engine with the same cams, pistons and head decking. This motor was ok but it got worse mileage than a 2.5 and it wouldn't pass on a 55MPH road up hill like a 2.5 would. Today I got authorization to replace the headgaskets on a 2001 with 99,960 miles. 40 miles from being out of the warranty extension. This was that cars first set. It had never had the coolant replaced but had the cooling conditioner added at 80K. I have done around 10 sets in the past 2 months and only 1 car was past warranty or didnt get a deal from Subaru. That one had 142K on the original set and never had the cooling system additive added. They did their coolant changes and I think that bought them the miles they got. While I dont think the additive is a perfect solution I have seen better results from the people that did use it than didn't. And I don't see how it can hurt. When you pour it, it looks weird but gives you a voodoo vibe of hmmm this might work. Most of the cars on the road wont reach 300K miles. They will rust out, get wrecked, etc before that. The customer won't pay anything for this repair but can opt to buy the timing belt while the engine is out. That means they are actually SAVING 400 dollars labor on a timing belt job and they will get their oil changed free, coolant replaced free, etc. So your 90-94 Legacy would be in the shop at 60K for a timing belt, and would be 20K from needing another. Thats 800 in labor alone plus the 2 belts at 75 bux....toss in some tax, shop supplies, etc and its easily at 1000. So which car or customer won again? And how many airbags and safety features does the old car have? And better ABS, cruise control and seats? How about seatbelts? When yours break you have to go junkyarding for a set and if you get a good one you still have a car with seatbelts that drive 90 percent of drivers completely insane. When the 2000 Outback seatbelt tears slightly they come in for a new one free. They also get their valve cover gaskets replaced for free with the HG job which would pay between 1.5 and 2 hours at a shop to do and is an even more common leak on ALL Subarus whether they are a 1977 Brat or a brand new car this will probably be a pretty early leak to have fixed. Above it was mentioned that it would be devistating to a customer that bought a $5000 car that needed a $1000 repair and I agree. But the internet is here and hopefully somebody that has $5000 to spend on a car will do some research online and find that this is a common problem with the car and have it checked, hopefully at a dealer to see when the gaskets were last replaced under warranty and make an informed decision. They might also take that information with them when making the deal and want $500 off the price of the car as insurance against this. Like I said...pick your battles.

Where did you get that info from? Theres absolutely no way they would do that. Overseas alot of countries still restrict displacement to 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 etc at the most. There are NEW cars with Ej20, EJ18, EJ16 engines out there to this day. Just not here in the USA...still...some of the cheapest gas on the planet. Subaru extended the warranty on some 2000 and 2001 model cars because of lots of failures early on. These are great cars other than their head gasket issues and if they were already replaced they will probably last 1.5 times the factory installed ones life at a minimum. Most of these are falling off of warranty time period right now and if they aren't they are at or above the 100K mark that the warranty was extended to. Most of the ones I have seen that have the external head gasket failure are people that didnt have their 30K services done and most notably the coolant changed and the cooling system conditioner added. Most of the ones I have seen also are people that have the oil changed at lube shops at 7500 mile intervals or worse as well. These cars are tough but they need care to last a long time. Above I saw mention of a low miles failure....but no mention of how often the fluids were changed. They need to be changed on a time or mileage scenerio as per the owners manual. Its usually every 2 years or 30K miles I think....but most people hit 30K first so I am not aware of the time suggestion. A fluids life and PH are very important to head gasket success. The fact is, having head gaskets done every 100K or so isn't really that much expense. On a customer pay ticket its 10 hours labor and a reasonable amount of money for the parts. While its being done you can have your water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner replaced. You need that at 105K anyway. All its doing is adding a few gaskets and about 6 hours labor to the bill. It also allows you to have your clutch replaced at the same time if you wish. All said and done you can buy a 2000-2001 Outback with a bad head gasket for around 2000 dollars, maybe even 3000, have the work done, and be at $5000 for a car that will easily last another 100K miles without much major work. We could be big fans of a car with: Electrical system problems Trans problems Badly designed brake components Tons of rattles and build quality issues. Cracked blocks Cracked heads Tons of engines with thrown rods Timing belts that are hard to change out But we dont have those things. ANd we have an engine that is easily removed from the car. I can get a 2000-2009 Outback engine out of the car in about 45-55 minutes usually. Above I saw mention of praise to the Ea82 engine.....wow. That thing isn't NEARLY as easy to remove as the new engine and alot harder to work on in the car than the new ones as well. It also doesnt pay for itself in the comfort, mileage or reliablity categories that even the Ej25 engine beats it on. The Turbo version of that engine went thru timing belts and head gaskets far more often than any Ej25 does. In summary. Take care of the car it will probably take care of you. AND pick your battles. It could be worse. You could be chasing a lot of other problems that Subaru is smart on. Remember a flat motor has twice the head gaskets of typical 4 cyl cars. Our 2003 Baja has 179K miles on it without a head gasket replacement. We bought it at 140K and I ran a report on it at the dealer that showed it had the cooling system conditioner added per the recall and has had a bottle and coolant change every 30K since that bulletin. I am about to do the gaskets in the next few months because the water pump is starting to seep so I figured I would pull the motor out and do a preventative set. Previous owner did the 30K services at 29, 55, 83.5, and 109K with the timing belt. And if you don't like the head gasket problems get a turbo car or an H6 model. The new 3.0 Outback is a terrific car.

Why not the XT? Drives so amazing every time I check one in.

Make her throw something else in to sweeten the price a little. Those are hard to find though.

I like both of the ones that discount recommended to you. Of those two I would let money talk. If you can spend the extra get the goodyears but the Yokohamas might be just a good a buy for you. (every time I priced them they were at least 40 a tire more than the Yokohamas and I wouldn't say worth the xtra 40 bux.) Remember if you blow one tire at 1/2 tread on either one you will need a set of 4 new ones. The road hazard coverage is only useful if they will put 4 new ones on in the event of a blowout. Otherwise pocket the money it costs and sock it away yourself.

Shhhhh! Don't tell anybody! Supposed to be our little secret.

I sure don't see what difference it makes what dents he or his farm hands put into it. The Brat is beautiful and thats enough for me. At least it didn't get crushed like 95 percent of the ones originally built did by now.

In this case we are talking about a Carb EA71 engine not an EA82 SPFI engine. I dont think theres that much difference in how the PCV system works on either engine but I thought that should be clarified.

As somebody that has a California Brat in the driveway I can definately see what Brian is saying about not modifying it. There really is something precious about having one that hasn't been altered and that you can just hop in and drive. I put a modern stereo in mine and a 4spd D/R trans in and thats it so far. I haven't hardly been tempted to even. I like how it runs and drives and it helps that its a Turbo brat but otherwise I just like that its a Brat and its super reliable. Mine is also far too nice to modify like the one Brian has is. It would be a crime to lift mine if you ask me.

Last week I saw 2 cars that had a P0304 code that was caused by somebody not getting the air filter box down into the tabs correctly allowing a large air leak at the bottom seam of the air box. Happened both times after both cars had been to Grease Monkey (im saying probably same employee not that Grease monkey is bad necessarily) The Cat code P0420 (Catalyst efficiency) is the most PITA code at times but also can be caused by the airbox leak. If it was my car I would check the air filter box first. Replace the front oxygen sensor 2nd, and drive the car 5K miles or so afterwards and see if the code stays off. Keep it simple stupid is the KISS principle. Don't overcomplicate the car until its necessary.

The block will bolt in. What year and model is the wrecked car? Swap the intake manifold from your 1.8 to the 2.2 block. This will solve the wiring problems. You will need the intake gaskets at a minimum to do that. The exhaust might be the same. Some blocks have 2 exhaust ports and some years have 1. But the wrecked Subi exhaust from pipe will probably bolt in correctly.

Subaru has rules for their dealers to follow with both the factory and extended warranties. For factory warranty there ares guidelines and a regional rep and a service manager at the dealer to handle any questions of what is covered. It works well usually. The customer comes to the counter. They explain the problem they are having with the car. If its clearly covered, a ticket is opened and an appointment to fix the car is made. If its not clear if its covered or not the service writer contacts someone internally in the dealer to check (service manager). If he/she doesn't know they contact the regional guy. With the extended warranty you still go to the counter, they check the paperwork and open a ticket. The extended warranty usually has a dollar limit on what they can fix without contacting the extended warranty people, after that they call in for approval on the hours of labor to be billed and the parts to be used. You need to discuss this with the dealers service manager first. If policies and procedures aren't being followed properly he/she is supposed to make it right so that you and other people wont have to deal with somebody that doesnt know how to serve you. If you don't get satisfaction from him, ask for the regional reps contact information or call Subaru to get the contact info. For the speaker its either: Wiring, most likely in the door hinge as this is the most stressed place in the car for speaker wiring. For the seat heaters the switches may be bad is most likely. People spill stuff into them like soda, water, coffee, drool(comes from looking at good lookin drivers at stoplights usually), etc. The climate control concerns you have, are normal. Thats one of the early automatic climate control cars and they have worked a few of the common complaints of the system out in the 08/09 model year cars but for the most part the car is using multiple temp and ambient sensors to try to keep you comfortable and it turns the fan up and down and the a/c on and off to do so. No warranty can cover a stereo system with an aftermarket head unit installed. Put your Macintosh radio back in and go to another dealer to have it fixed. (there is a reman program where they order one, replace yours and mail yours back in. Takes a week or two for the radio to come in but they do nice work usually) I see this everyday unfortunately. People think they are being scammed but alot of the time they either void their warranty themselves or they think warranty should cover things that it doesnt. In the past month I have seen people want: CD player warrantied because they shoved a mini disc into it after they had already put 6 discs in. Wheels and tires warrantied because they slid on ice into curbs. Windshield warrantied after they punched the inside of the glass. Glass warrantied after they had a tint shop install tint. Antenna receptiion warrantied after they had the tint installed over the antenna (tint typically has metal in it)--why the heck didnt they go back to the tint place and make them fix it since the problem started RIGHT after the tint?!?! They do make tint that doesnt have metal in it for this purpose and they do put tint on for a living! Engine warranty attempt after 0 oil changes in 20K miles. The motor failed after she tried to pass a dumptruck going 85MPH up a mountain pass on ice in 3rd gear. Trans warranty after they got stuck in a ditch and tried to rock out of the ditch. Axle warranty after they jumped a median. Clutch warranty on an STI with 8,000 miles. Brake warranty at all within 36,000 miles is abuse in my opinion. Sunroof warrantied after they drove their car with a mountain bike on the roof into their house without removing the bike first. These fools YELL at times. They are freaks! I saw one bring an attorney in and even the lawyer started laughing at his own client for their stupidity. She put a mini mag light flashlight into the center console and the butt end of it unthreaded into the socket and shorted the power socket (cig lighter socket) out because its made of METAL. She wanted the 1/2 hour of labor charged to her to be covered under warranty. A $1 fuse and a 1/2 hour in this case might sound rediculously expensive to some of you but that console is dark and it was difficult to track down. The fact is Subaru didnt put a maglight into the console or flip the protective door up. She did. The $1 fuse kept her car from burning to the ground (I say let it!--its a silly TRIBECA.) People need to remember that every time they file a warranty claim they are indirectly driving the price of the warranty or the sticker prices of the cars up. People think they are sticking it to the man or to Subaru but the service technicians are usually the ones to take it in the shorts. The little guys so to speak. The guys that get paid 1 hour to replace a seat heater element and take the entire seat out of the car, tear the whole seat apart and put it back in. With leather that is dried out no less. A little advice. Be patient with the dealer. You are walking in with a bunch of problems and I see why with a deductible but offer to leave the car and ask for a loaner if they can. Its a hectic place at times and stressful. Warranty companies and Subaru don't pay very much to the technicians at times and its hard to spend hours diagnosing things only to have get paid at most a half hour to diagnose something. Get all the problems on one ticket but be patient and if they don't fix the problem hold them accountable for it but thats it. What you are encountering is ONE dealer scamming you. Not all of them are bad. Find one that is and if it requires a 30 minute drive its worth it. Schedule in advance, get a loaner car and leave it for them to take their time and do a good job. Good luck and I hope you get satisfactory service.

Did you take the bellhousing off the back of the block and look at the gears? Were you able to split the case and look at the and cam journals? Something caused the valve to hit the piston. This doesnt just happen. While I will agree that the piece embedded into the piston is alarming there will be something more glaringly obvious if the block is split I think.

It was actually a reminder to lock the doors as a safety precaution. A locked car driving down the road is usually more solid in a crash. All that aside I think its stupid too. You know your doors are locked or not. If they wanted it so bad they would have made the doors lock automatically after a certain speed.

Those rims look great. I am still looking for a set. Brat looks terrific too. Thanks for posting the pics.

It could be the tensioner slapping against the bracket that holds it. Check for a shiny line across the hydraulic pin that pushes against the tensioner bracket with an oily rust colored oil around it.

I assume you swapped that plastic breather plate off before installing the motor? These tend to leak easily.

Honestly if you already bought it and can't return it I would dump it in and start it up. Its not like it will take you very long to install and if it runs another 50K or more it was certainly worth it. Its not like that is a lot of metal either. If you were at the yard looking for a motor you would pass on it and try for better but I have a feeling this is one of the motors in your shed that you have collected over the years.