ShawnW

Does it only do it first thing in the morning and then go away? Or Does it do it all the time? For the first one...its usually a 1 way valve in the brake booster. Replace the whole booster (the big round thing behind the master cyl). For the 2nd option you may need your brakes bled...air in the lines.

Just a few 10MM (6x1.0) bolts secure them.

Middle bore in the block is likely to be scored. Its been the one that is bad on 4 I tore down in the past. Otherwise I agree easy build. A little harder to get out of the engine compartment than a regular Subaru flat of course. Depends on what you are used to. Get a new timing chain and guide while you are at it. Dealer available last I tried.

I would like some interior parts if it has a blue interior. Center console if its high, seats...if any of the seat bottoms or even better seat backs are unripped I would love to buy them. Getting to $700 will be really hard though. $350 might be doable. Remember a body if you can still roll it to a junkyard usually fetches around $165 or so in sheer weight per ton sort of money. The tailgate chrome is easy $50 if not more I havent been watching Ebay.

Tap out the holes on the cyl head for the pump bracket and grab the longer t-stat and upper radiator hose. (Make sure your engine in the brat to receive PS has the ears for the bracket in the first place).

Power steering lines wont have anything to bolt to anymore and is normal. Email me the picture of the other side. shawnw@Ultimatesubaru.org

If the tensioner isnt making noise and is holding it will probably last thru the 60K. They dont really fail very often once they have been compressed and decompressed for a belt change. ONe of those if you make it 5 minutes after the belt is installed you will probably be OK things. Too bad they didnt stay with the old kind. (89-97 or so). Those RARELY failed. You can retrofit them if you get the bracket behind it, the rubber behind the bracket, and the 2 little bolts and the tensioner itself. They work fine on everything except the WRX with the 2nd mini idler.

Take the drivers side outer cover off and look. 3 bolts, 10MM, easy with a 10MM gear wrench.

Kindof sounds like a clogged catalyst. Id get a VAC gauge and see what the intake manifold vac is at. Higher the better hopefully nearing 15 PSI.

I drove my Turbo Brat today and was pleased that the AC (134A) actually works, and WELL, even with the T-top glass letting a lot more sun into the cabin it kept me very comfortable. Sorry I dont know what pressures they charged it to though.

I would change the oil, not the filter just the oil. At work somebody just lost their Ej22 due to parking it 2-3 years and not changing before driving it a little while.

Just watch for fires when running a 25A where a 15A goes.

Agreed, all of mine have worked right off the junkyard car no issues.

Thats a fun site thanks for the link. In Denver no less (my neck of the woods). They better stay off my street they would be here for a day just in front of my house. I have 2 Brats out front tonight, a VW vanagon, and my project 83 wagon sitting there. Dont mention the 2 outbacks and a Baja that normal out the fleet.

Might try an independent subaru shop or possibly Aarons in Seattle.

Try looking at it from their side. Normally, somebody comes in for a mount and balance and the customer stays out of the way, doesnt second guess your work and wants to pay you what you are worth. They have to pay that worker you borrowed for an hour and they have to pay for the floor jacks, tire wheel weights, ballancer machine and maint on it, etc. They mailed the bill to your house maybe because you didnt offer to pay? Or maybe because you were more of a liability by helping than you were help? It sounds mean but sometimes the customer tries to be helpful but is more in the way than anything. If you trust them to do the job let them do the job and be sure to pay them for their time so they will continue to do good work. As for manual brake adjusters on an 84 or older Subaru...thats half the reason I convert my cars to disc rear brakes. I hate those adjusters, they like to snap off, they use a tiny square (1/4") tool that isnt common in most techs toolboxes and you have to know what you are doing to do them. Honestly, most cars from the 80's had self adjusting rear brakes, the mechanic took the drum off, saw lots of pad and put the car back together. Thats a nice favor if you ask me. They looked to see that the shoes are good and now you know they are worth trying to adjust in the first place.

#1--ABSOLUTELY TRUE!!! On top of that Subaru technicians have to fix all of the warranty claims that come thru the dealership. When John, Jane, and Steve come in with these three problems..... 1-Wind noise from the front windows. 2-Broken cupholder 3-Fuel gauge doesnt work. Number one is almost always wear and tear and the customers fault. ALL OF US shut the doors on Subarus by pushing the glass and the full weight of the door with it. While you might consider this a design flaw its just the way its made and alot of us like it. It gives a cleaner look and when the window is down you dont have a big door frame to walk around or as much stuff to get in your way. By doing this you are trashing the window gussets. Replacment isnt a hard job you just pop the door panel off, take the mirror off, unplug a few things, etc. Takes about 20 minutes per door on average. Add some red tape of warranty paperwork, going to the parts counter, parking the car, etc and you are easily up to 30 minutes to do the drivers side one. I would guess at least, at least, one of these is covered in every dealer in the country per month. It adds up to a ton of money in parts, shipping, and labor to the techs. Subaru loses and the tech loses too because he probably gets about .4 to do that job. Thats not even a half hour to take your entire door apart. Most techs are probably coming off doing a brake job, engine work, etc. They certainly arent clean from head to toe and you want the guy to come out and work on your tan interior car, that is practically white interior and not get a grease print on it? 2-Stuff a 44 OZ LARGE soft drink from Burger (Shack) in your dash. That weighs almost 2 pounds!!! You are asking a piece of non nasa designed plastic to hold 2 pounds of liquid and you are placing it above your radio. It doesnt take a genius to see the flaw in this plan or better yet the idea of making the cup have an 8" diameter rim at the top but a 4" base so it will fit inside the cupholder that wasnt designed for it in the first place. While we broke the cupholder we also managed to spill Coke in the seat heater switch, shift interlock unit (that magic thing that knows you have your foot on the brake and its safe to go from Park to other gears) so that later on you can have a mysterious problem with a wiring device that is your fault for spilling crap in your car. (But the human mind thinks, damn this car first the flimsy cupholder breaks and then only a month later my butt warmer wont turn off and my radio wont tune to anything but the honky tonk station cuz my dumb ex rode with me and changed the radio.....) The fuel gauge doesnt work. Well one out of 3 that are not actually your fault is a good start. Oh but lets ask the tech to figure out why in 15 minutes, order the part, and then you can come back and get your car fixed in a week. Why? Because the budget doesnt allow the dealer to stock the part that is actually the fault of the automaker because the dealer is stocking a bunch of wear parts that the customers break by doing dumb things. As for speed. It does pay to be fast. It also allows the tech to do the things that dont require a bunch of detail quickly but get to the picky stuff, pay attention, fix it, and get the car put back together quickly. On top of that for the most part techs are smart about their shortcuts meaning sometimes they sneak their hand thru a narrow place instead of taking 30 screws out of something like the book says to do. Smarter, not harder, still applies. Remember these guys have multiple tool truck accounts, laundry service charges, ASE certification testing fees, AC cert fees, and on top of that many are paying back student loans for auto school or maybe even college itself.

They went to stamped steel. Try to find the middle aged aluminum one used if you can and use that.

It looks to me like you bought a parts engine. Split the case. Inspect the crank and cam. If the cam is special you might use it in your other block. Sell the pistons to somebody. They are the same bore as an ea81 and ea82 and theres a lot more people willing to run those motors in a race or non stock setting. Probably get your $ back out of the whole engine on just pistons alone if the rings are still like new. Dont forget aluminum is pretty high value right now and dont get discouraged. Much interest in what you find splitting the block. You will need a wrist pin puller to get the pistons out or you have to split the case, tilt the center halves up at weird angles, use thin wobble sockets and wrenches to take the rods apart and slowly but surely you can get all the rod caps split and then take it apart that way.

I thought they would work same bolt pattern...? People put 02 WRX seats in 92 Turbo legacy so I dont know why it wouldnt work.

Cool! Have fun and keep soobing! Congrats on the job!

Just be smart about it for sure. Illegal but even more so the dogs I have seen in Junkyards before would make your worst fears come true.

Roll on Baccaruda!

I dont really think in relative terms these were inexpensive cars. And today's certainly are not cheap. Yet, this doesnt seem to be a factor for people they still abuse, ignore recommended or suggested maintenence (doesnt matter if its in the owners manual or the dealership/repair shop), and neglect these cars consistantly. Its sad that finding one that was cared for is a rarity. Heck, finding a 2003 that has all the maint done is rare for me to see. People just do not do the math and people love to gamble because they got away with something for years on a previous one.

From 91 FSM in case somebody else has a 90-94 AT code they need to retrieve: EXISTING PROBLEM CHECK PROCEDURE Move shifter to D and turn manual switch ON. Turn Ignition switch ON Move select lever to 3 and turn manual switch OFF Move select lever to 2 and turn manual switch ON Move select lever to 1 and turn manual switch OFF Partially depress accelerator pedal (this turns the idle switch off) Verify that the light is blinking on the dash. Count like any Subaru trouble code with long/short. 11-duty solenoid A 12 duty solenoid B 13 shift solenoid 3 14 shift solenoid 2 15 shift solenoid 1 21 atf temp sensor 22 atmospheric sensor 23 engine rev signal 24 duty solenoid C 31 throttle sensor 32 vehicle speed sensor 1 33 vehicle speed sensor 2 There is a procedure for previous problem check, it is : Move lever to 1 and turn manual switch on Ignition switch on Move lever to 2 and turn manual switch off Move select lever to 3 and turn manual switch ON Move select lever to D and turn manual switch OFF Partially press accel pedal Read codes