MorganM

Sounds like you need the PCV hose upgrade. Early SPFI engines came with a funny vacume line setup for the PCV system. Later one just before the Loyale came out they fixed it with different hoses and splitters. Basicly instead of using 2 fat hoses and 2 wussy ones they made it use 3 fat ones. This would stop oil from getting sucked up into the PCV hoses, via the vents off the tappet covers, and into the intake where it gets burnt off. When the oil gets sucked in your intake and burns off in the combustion chambers your car runs kinda crappy and you might even see some smoke shoot out the back for a brief moment. You can get the updated PCV system (just some hoses and plastic fittings) off any late model SPFI or specificly a Loyale. Good luck

Have to call around to some real radiator shops. I bet they have a solvent flush that east the scaled up junk off. I just replace them. If you keep your eyes open in the junkyards you can find new ones The cost of a new one is insignificant to the cost of fixing stuff from overheating if you want to look at it that way! A 2 core for $200 is a good investment to the future. You can get oil coolers too. I got mine from someone in the UK. Apparently they came stock over there? I know some turbo modles came with it here in the states.

much better! that distance pic doesnt do the rims justice. cant tell they have a mirror finish untill you look at the close up!

Throwout bearing and clip springs. Maybe a pilot bearing too.

The Accels are a bit more narrow diamiter in the main body. Hence they dont fit in the stock coil bracket w/o a shim of some sort. Even the stock coils came with a rubber boot around the body. I thought it was more for making it fit but maybe its also to dampen vibration? Mine is in there just flopping around. Maybe I'll try securing it first!

What did you use to hang it in the drive shaft tunnel like that? I'd like to run mine up there near the driveshaft also. Thx!

Herm I have a missfire issue on my EA82. Running the Accel 'super stock'. Wonder if this is the culprit? Plugs and wires are new.

That's a great idea. I know when ppl have done this I called to make sure they were okay. We are here to help

Okay so I have lots of positive camber going on. Would that cuase a lot of vibration in the rear end ? I cant decide if all vibrating in the rear is my driveshaft (which I can tell through the floor boards is slightly off) or if its from my suspension and tires.

Wish I could go May is deck building month for me. XT6joe let me know if you go 'cus I have lots of parts to swap!

I did not really notice my strut assembly hitting the unibody when I installed my fronts. This was an EA82 Gl wagon with BYB 3" lift. On the other hand I didnt really look that close so it could be. I should check that out... When I look at my tires from the front, there is lots of toe-in. That's negative camber right?

It most definatly should have one. Secure that puppy in a better spot and get a good cap for it

Make sure all your vacume hoses are pluged in or pluged up! Those can spew oil all over. Must be flinging it from somewhere. Is it all over your timing belts? Maybe you can peek behind your cam gears and see the culprit? Peek behind the main crank pulley. Should be able to see those if you have all the covers off like you said. Could also be oil pump seals. Maybe try cleaning it all off and watching it leak.

In your Subaru is a 5speed with push button 4WD right? Maybe someone can confirm this but I belive ith as the smaller clutch which in turn has a different flywheel than the 5spd dual range. Might need those from the donor. Also how about the crossmember? Just get as much as you can Best to have the parts car sitting there but I know how that's rarely an option. Now is also a good time for a throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and check your clutch/friction plate/pressure plate. Do as much as you can. I feel real stupid now that I put in my tranny with a new pilot bearing but forgot about the throw out bearing which now squeeks horribly.

1) Is this a BYB lift? The BYB lift strut extensions are built to correct the issue with camber; ensure they are installed on the correct side and facing the correct direction. 2) The odometer is off as well. The whole device is off by 10% since it's all ran off that one cable from the tranny.

Here the dillyo Ill just make this long story short. Finally got my hands on some Speed Bleeders. Motormite #12706 are a direct bolt in for the front calipers. Nobody has anything listed for the rear drums. The selections are very limited so I eye balled the best I could. NONE of them were even close really. The rear drum bleeders are VERY long compared to most other bleeders I saw. I ended up just grabing a set of Motormite #12704. I made some custom bleeders for the rear I linked up some photos of my custom bleeders. THe first is the speed bleeder. Basicly its just an 1/8" ID hose, 2 clamps and one #12704 at one end. THe other end slips onto your drum bleeder and you clamp it down tight. Simply crack the drum bleeder loose a 1/2 turn and bleed away! http://www.mnchopshop.org/images/usmb/brake_bleeders_006.jpg http://www.mnchopshop.org/images/usmb/brake_bleeders_003.jpg The other bleeders there with the long hoses. Those are for 'bench' bleeding your master cylinder. Unhook the 2 lines from the right side of the master cylinder. Screw in these duders, put the ends of the hoses into your master cylinder and slowly pump your brake pedal. They are made from 2 fittings and hardlines I had left over and some 3/16" ruber hose. http://www.mnchopshop.org/images/usmb/brake_bleeders_019.jpg Hope this hleps someone else

After the Outback everything was AWD. The first gen Legacys you could still get FWD and as noted that was uptill 1995.

It took 3 to put in the trans on my '88 GL wagon. 2 below, one on each side of the crossmember, and using a jack directly under the transaxle to assist us in getting it upto the main engine crossmember. A 3rd guy (thanks joe!) was pushing on the engine with one hand and lifted the tranny by the bellhousing to get it up onto those 2 lower studs on the engine bellhousing. Honestly that part only ook about 10 minutes. The harder part was lining everything up and getting all the bolts started so we could tighten in down. Pushing on the engine is key. Need to point those studs on the engine bellhousing down ward making it WAY easier to slip the transmission bellhousing onto the studs. I'm pretty scrawny in the arms and we had little trouble lifting it with teh jack assisting us. Joe is a bear and was able to push on the engine and lift the trans at the same time so you might need to track down one mroe person for the install Good luck! ALso dont make my mistake by NOT replacing the throw out bearing!!!! Nothing like putting it all back together only to hear your throwout bearing over your exhuast! Get a new throw out bearing on there !

No go at napaonline.com either Think im just gonna go to checkers who I know had the fronts in stock and bring in a rear bleeder to compoare and match a speed bleeder to.. I will definatly reply back here with all the part numbers I can get my hands on

ARGH! This local NAPA really sucks. The guy there today admits they DO have them now but he wont help me figure out the rears over the phone. I asked him if the SB7100 manufacture part number would be on the packaging. With out even hinting at caring and refusing to go look he said NO its not on there and I would just have to bring one in so we can eyeball it!!! I'm not happy ... I would have asked him to just look up and find a rear replacment bleeder for my year/make/model and try to compare a SpeedBleeder but that would obviously be way too much work... Partsman!!! Any way I could get a NAPA part # for those SB7100? thanks!

Looks like Checkers stocks these. The rears are a mystery still. I'm on the phone with NAPA right now trying to beat some answers out of the parts man Will report back when I have more info!

Hey thanks a lot! I called a NAPA and the dude said he never even heard of them and they didnt sell them!!!! Some part numbers should jog his memory Everywhere that stocked them said they couldnt/wouldnt figure out what fit on my Subaru. Hopefully I can get some tomarrow!

Sounds to me like a seal. Letting air in sometimes under certain conditions yet sealing properly othertimes. Hopefully the kit will get you going w/o the tic tic tic!

Oh Im Work'n!!!!!!!1111 =P

If you want simplicity go SPFI the whole way. Just the turbo alone isnt much more junk on that engine its the MPFI also. MOre hoses, wires, etc etc. After stripping it down my SPFI is soooooo simple. Even looking at carbed models I still think "what in the heck is ALL THAT JUNK?!" You can do all of those 'performance mods' to an SPFI. Horse power guesses are just that, guesses. I wouldnt expect much over 100HP to be honest and youll never know till its on a dyno.