Flowmastered87GL

is that a voltmeter on the right??? why add another one when you have one on the stock cluster?? :-\ Looks sweet though

yes and I dont even have a 4 lug car to put them on

if there really is no rust I bet you could get a nice paint job applied to it and sell it for like $4000+ on e-bay

you could swap it to an EJ engine from a legacy.... but if you want to go the simple route, reseal your current engine (if you can determine the internals are good) head gaskets, oil seals and such and throw on a weber 32/36 carb. Way more power, better mileage and you can take off of most of the emissions stuff and still pass emissions testing (as far as tailpipe emissions go) if they look under the hood not sure (California for example)

well it shouldnt be putting out that many volts. Since you say advancing it all the way helped some maybe pull off the timing covers and make sure both timing belts are properly in time. May be as simple as moving the drivers side belt 1 tooth. Of course at that point if they are off time I would just replace the belts.... and water pump... and oil seals

as long as there isnt gobs of hidden rust and bondo under the rattle can job I think it looks great Ya the paint isnt perfect, but its all 1 color

Consider taking it to Richie.... www.fixmysuby.com Other than warranty stuff he is the ONLY person I trust with my cars

The brush guard reminds me of a chain steering wheel

Must... beat club.... want best campsite I plan to try to leave thursday afternoon

Sweet, you need a thick picture frame for it so you can mount it on the garage wall. Glad you arent opening it. My manuals are full of grease and the spines are broken from setting tools on them to hold the page open

done :cool:

I just let the dealer do it. Its like $7.99 I think? (maybe 12.99) for the bulb and they put it in free and guarantee it for a year Since I drive with my lights on 24/7 its nice.

Not sure of the onsite stuff, but Warrendale is really close, as is Astoria depending on which way of business route 101 you go. I for one will be restocking my beer supply (if it runs out)at the Rite Aid in Warrendale because I know how to get there with my eyes closed since I work for em Dunno what to do about food... I was just going to live on Beer and Oranges maybe

Congrats

you could cut them off, but I would just bend it straight. The engineers put it there for a reason. If it breaks off though... eh no biggie

I try to do 24 hours... not like I ever move fast enough for that though I resealed the legacy engine like 2 weeks ago, put it in a week or so ago.... need to connect everything in the next week... maybe it will be started by WCSS

The side moldings are different (side markers on the black molding on the 92-94's) and the side markers were more horizontal than on the 90-91 So you CAN bolt em on... but you have to change some other stuff to make em work. Generally not worth it.

How to get a male teen to accept a wagon Show them how the seats fold down.... explain what the 6 star club is (its having uhhh relations in a subaru)

I had my U joint go out... mine was on the rear diff end of the driveshaft. It was WAY off center by the time it nearly failed. $25 for a used low mileage part and a beer mug to have a friend (thanks Mark) put it in and I was back on my way I had like 270K maybe when mine died. The transplant had only like 115K It did what you are explaining too... vibrated... mainly under power at higher speeds. Not so much when coasting.

Hmmmm Mt. Hood Beverage Co is 5 miles away.... I may not be driving anywhere once I show up and set up camp

just throwing this out there too.... my GL was terribly slow when the catalytic converter clogged. Once it exploded the power came back . Not saying this is the issue, but it is a possibility. I would more likely lean toward something along the lines of BOTH sides of the engine being in proper time with everything.

Congrats... you are twice as old as me :banana:

How NOT to remove the orange section from your turn signals (or side markers)

I had a 98 or so OBS tape deck in my 87 GL.... I just made an adapter harness to go between the deck and the factory car wiring. I clipped the illumination wire because the deck would go dark when I turned on the headlights. With it clipped the display would always be lit, but the buttons wouldnt. I just wrapped electrical tape around the part of the deck that stuck out. Looked good enough.

My solution to this problem (back when I used to work on EA82's as projects... but EJ25's should hold true for the same thing) was to find one that ALREADY had a blown head gasket... Then I could fix it on my terms and know when it was done, and know that it was done right and that it wouldnt blow again in a month A friend of mine just bought a really nice loaded 2002 outback limited for like $8000, had Richie replace the head gaskets and rear brakes and she came in still under her $9995 budget Sure beats buying the $9500 outback with currently good gaskets and having them blow a month later