Flowmastered87GL

One thing to consider... If its super cold, I think leaving it plugged in would be a good idea. If its only kinda cold... I think the timer would be worth it. Even if your power isnt that expensive, consider where it may be coming from... buring coal? Creating nuclear waste? Hmm makes a $10 timer seem good Don't get me wrong I am not a total environment freak... though I do still think its kinda wasteful to leave a car plugged in for 8+ hours if its only 30 degrees outside.

Usually I and another person (helps to have a second ear) adjust the mix screw til it sounds decent. Then adjust the idle til its where I want. Mine is like 800 RPM idle warm, like 600 cold... so sometimes it stalls on a cold morning, but not often. If I push the gas once and ONLY once, it will idle at 1500 cold like it should, but its harder to start that way so I just deal with the 600 or so cold RPM's for the first few blocks.

Is my weber hard to start in the cold? Yes But... I get way more power, better mileage and a smoother idle. If adjusted properly (and all I did is play with the screws, no new jets yet) they are not too hard to live with.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I belive you just hook up the little plug that hangs out from under the car to an extension cord and thats it. I dont think it has any on-off switch or anything.

There is an 87 GL for sale by me with a set of Shelby alloys on it :cool: $650 for the car, alloys and all. I am tempted to show up with a set of steelies and hubcaps (or some H alloys) and afew bucks and try to trade em.

If you cant get the reverse lights to work anyway... hook em up to an extra factory fog light switch or something... then you can mess with people... flick on the lights and take off in 1st gear

Wow, I guess the ghetto fab one I bought from a guy who worked in a shop for $20 was steal! Though it IS kinda homemade... but sturdy!

John, I have the parts here at my place. I will stash em under the BACK porch at my house so you could pick em up whenever... PM coming your way with my cell # and address.

For the cost of a new engine (equal to bus ticket + gas to get home?) I bet you could take the bus out here to the Northwest and buy a good running rust free wagon for like $750 and drive it home. Or you could even go down to Texas or something... but the cars will be harder to find there.

Well the RX has around 115 HP and I think the EA81 is around 76 HP or so (depending on model/application) So you would be losing about 39 HP But 76 healthy horses are better than 115 sick ones I am sure there are some nay-sayers that will say dont carb an RX... I say its your car, do what you want to it regardless of its classic nature. Anything is better than sending it out for scrap.

My thought is... Pay Ken to do it

Drool... sounds like something I would like to do to my street 82 brat :cool:

My opinion... If you have a cone air filter or a cut airbox, yes. If you have a totally stock intake system, I belive the restriction of the intake will help to keep down any gains from the exhaust since its not fully modified (like a 3 inch turbo back or something...) I found that glasspacking one of my turbowagons made no difference at all. (other than a bit of noise when I let off the gas) A K&N Filter on my wagon back when it had a hitachi carb made a bigger difference! So I think these cars are more restricted on the intake side. Like I said, its my opinion, not a proven fact.

Hey mark... we WERE talking about hacking up that 3 door body to get a roll cage pattern. Maybe hack it up and then rework it back as a 2 door??

I change my oil every 3000 miles or so, I use a good subaru oil filter and add about 1 quart over the term of those 3000 miles (burn off and leakage). I would consider my use extreme conditions for sure as I start the car approximately 40-60 times per day Basically I end up having to change my oil once a month and believe me, it needs it. I once went like 6000 miles and it was nasty nasty stuff!

I'll be seein' ya Sunday morning/afternoon

Given how hard of a time I had putting EA82 seats in my Brat... Yes EA81 and EA82 seats are different. I belive the adapter plates will not have to act to spread the seat rails quite as far apart on the legacy seats to match up to the floor of the EA82. Hell you may just need to adjust them for front/rear and nothing side to side.

Cant wait to see it on Sunday The seats will have a good home in my street brat :cool:

Are you gonna change your name to Dr. wRX ?? (small w on purpose cause it kinda makes it dual purpose...)

is all I can do My old 60 month Les Schwab battery was WAY past its prime... I got like 7 years of use out of it and nearly 100K... time to retire it as it actually died a year ago and I have just made it last by being careful about current draw when starting the car. I went to GI Joes today in Eastport Plaza in Portland and they are having a sale... SUNDAY ONLY 20% off automotive and sporting goods. I actually went in to get a maintenance journal which I also got 20% off on, but I left with a battery too. The battery fits perfect, has like 750 CCA I think :cool: Normal price was $99.99 and with coupon it was just 79.99... crazy huh?? A new optima red top for that cheap! This should get me to 400,000 miles easy... and maybe even live on to the next car. So for those of you in Portland... who can afford $80 + a $6 core get one today!!

Regarding the edges of the clutch... if the edges ARE pointy maybe they just need to break in before it gets full contact? This is a Peraut clutch kit I think... all the other ones I have had have been perfect right out of the box (well other than the 83+ style one) I am just about to go out and try yanking the TO bearing to see what happens... still dont know what to hope for, but we shall see what it does.

Is #10 a gas station of a family planning bank

I had this issue when I took my mom's 96 OBS in. I refused to leave until they made it the proper level... which they did, they even washed the car if I remember right... I would say DIY, but sometimes you just cant... the garage is full and its too nasty outside, you live in an apartment and you will get kicked out if "the man" catches you working on the car in the parking lot...

I get in the car, start it, can get it in gear and it BARELY moves... I can push it faster! I think... back with the old clutch I could actually make it grind if I yanked the cable... hard to remember, but I got it to grind gears somehow... meaning it WAS getting power transfer enough to make it grind... probably JUST enough though, but not enough to effectively transfer full power. My guess still is that ya the FORK is slack, but the carrier is bottomed out on the tranny but is still pressing on the clutch unit. Until tomorrow though we wont know. If it turns out to be the problem I dont know what to do though... I pretty much confirmed by comparing a KNOWN 82 brat flywheel with XSNRG against this one that the flywheel is the correct unit, maybe it needs to be turned a bit or something (on the outer part, not the disk part) but it seems to be where it should. With a breaker bar on the crank the clutch feels like it grabs... but thats like 1 RPM, not 1000 so the load on the system is much less. I just want this thing working and running so I can drive it, finish it and sell it to pay for my wedding

Yes I have resistance the last 1/4 inch or so when I try to press the engine on! So either the bearing is wrong maybe of the setup is too thick... maybe my car is designed for some REALLY rare setup... I dunno. I will report back tomorrow hopefully with what yanking the TO bearing assy. does for it.