GeneralDisorder

Beware - the parts for these cars and engines are becoming obsolete. Subaru has no interest anymore in maintaining the inventory for them. Critical things like oil pumps are NO LONGER AVAILABLE new at any price, from any source. Best to move on to the Legacy platform. They are just as cheap and a much better platform as well. GD

Their value will be severely limited. Even Brats have gone up momentarily and then their value plummeted. Rare 360's can't command much even because there's just very little market. There isn't enough demand and there are virtually no parts to keep them on the road. Sure - one or two people a week stop in to ask if my lifted hatch is for sale (it's not), but invariably they have no clue that it's not a vehicle you can daily drive, nor do they understand what it would take to build another or it's value. Ultimately they haven't got even close to the money it would cost if I would be willing to sell it, no clue what it takes to maintain one, and half of them think it's a Justy. Other than iconic cars like the Brat, the rest will be a footnote in automotive history and not in any serious way desirable. My 69 GMC truck with only 130k, nice patina, and in good running driving condition is probably worth $5k and its 50 years old. Very desirable body and can get ANY part for full restoration. I'm afraid no old Subaru is ever going to be worth more than $5k. No one is that interested in them and If they are as soon as they find out you can't get parts and have to start your own junk yard and buy 20 of them to get enough parts to maintain or restore one.... They will lose interest quick. GD

That's not a slide pin. And I can't identify it as any related component. GD

When you get to the scene of the accident. Duh! GD

Not sure on the shaders themselves - you are talking about the valve core yes? You can bypass this situation quickly and easily by installing R134 retrofit valves. You just screw them onto the existing R12 fittings after you remove the old valve cores. Then you just use R134 hoses for charging with your choice of refrigerant. GD

Those modifications will do very little. The engine is already making 135 HP and even dramatically improving the volumetric efficiency and moving the peak HP up to 7000 RPM would probably only yield about 150 HP. This would of course require replacing the cam. Since you can't do that, and you can't increase the redline without a completely different management system, you're not going to get even half that much of a gain. You will be lucky to gain 5 HP for all that trouble and as much as you may like to think you can feel 5 HP. You can't. GD

Dave and others - this is not a press in/press out bearing like the pre-05 cars had on the front. This is a bolt-in pre-assembled bearing assembly that he is having trouble removing from the large opening on the knuckle. The Harbor Freight set will not work in this case. He is trying to remove a 4-bolt flange from the knuckle, not a pressed, round race. The only suitable method for both this, and the ball joint, is an oxy-torch and an air hammer. GD

Yes they should both be the same 4.44 final drive. Should bolt right up. GD

We heat the knuckle surrounding the bearing housing with an oxy torch. This can be a virtual requirement depending on the rust situation. A press is not recommended as you can deform the knuckle. GD

It's part of the condenser. Generally if the drier (filter) needs to be replaced, the tubes in the condenser will be plugged also. The newer the system, the smaller the diameter of the condenser tubes. GD

It was used on 85 GL-10's but I've only seen 2WD versions. I don't believe they made it in 4WD. Then it was used on the XT4. GD

It doesn't need cleaning - it needs either the solenoid or the backpressure transducer replaced most likely. GD

Check the wiring to the injectors - especially at the main plug from the intake harness to the body harness. I've had the pins for the injector driver circuits get corroded and had intermittent misfires due to no injector signal from the ECU. GD

No. Different bell housing. GD

There are no seals other than the input seal that require splitting the case. And that one almost never leaks (as in I've never seen it unless the input shaft bearings were grenaded). GD

Something for a Toyota I would suspect. Packaged wrong. The contitech kits include Chinese parts - GMB, etc. Send the whole thing back. If you must get a kit, get the Aisin offering. GD

I would just fill the hole with JB weld putty and block sand it. And I own an $8k TIG welder. Cast is a pain in the neck and I wouldn't drag it out for that job. GD

There are no issues with bolting it up. The 2.2 heads are restrictive and won't rev to where the 2.5 will still make power. It will have good low end but the cam profile is not ideal and the heads just don't flow well. Also you will be limited to the 2.2 RPM red line as well as zero ability to tune the computer. You should be able to flash tune the 05 computer with the right ROM defs. If you have everything you can send both harnesses to iWire and have it merged so it will all be plug and play for the engine. You can run any manual you want including an STi 6 speed with the right parts and pieces. Bolting it up will not be a problem, but if you stick with the 2.2 heads you will be severely limiting what that engine could do for you. The newer heads flow much better, and have a better valve train. Custom cams could be ground, etc. The early 2.2 computers are junk for performance - they can't be tuned, the induction parts and sensors are going out of availability, and they deal very poorly with camshaft changes. GD

No difference. The airbox is a resonance chamber to dampen engine noises. Functionally equivalent.

95 Legacy's have OBD-II, at least an early implementation of it. Not sure on the Impreza - it may not. GD

Never seen a TC chirp. Delay in lockup.... can't explain that one other than it's computer controlled so possibly the TCU is bad. None of this is related to the 2.2 swap. Although it's generally a terrible idea to swap in the phase II 2.2 as they have a tendency to burn oil and have some parts like rings that are dealer only and very expensive. Muffler being gone will not cause a cat code. It probably needs a cat. Wouldn't be unusual. Sounds like a rusty mess. Put a muffler on it, clear the codes, and sell it. GD

SWF20066ZZ-0

Need to know year.

Check the big hose from the bottom of the intake tube to the idle air control valve. GD

The OEM boots from Subaru are the best and they aren't that expensive.