GeneralDisorder

That's the TCU. The ECU is a seperate animal. GD

No - it will not get better mileage than a properly operating Hitachi. If that is your primary concern then don't bother. It will get the same or perhaps 0.5 to 1 MPG less than the Hitachi - possibly a bit more than than if you have a feedback computer controlled Hitachi. One of the reasons for this is precisely because it's so small and ends up being a bottleneck against hard acceleration even with the pedal floored, etc. Personally I feel the Hitachi's are dangerously slow. I eliminate them immediately because otherwise I'll get run over by a logging truck. The best mileage for your engine would be acheived by swapping over to the Single Point Fuel Injection (SPFI) found on later model GL's and Loyale's. This will add power and will increase fuel effeciency and really doesn't cost much more than a Weber if you shop around for the part. It also has the added benefit that if you do it properly it can be smogged in CA simply by having a smog ref check it out and list it as an engine swap from an '89 GL. Then you don't have to mess with swapping back and forth to get your tags. GD

I'm just glad it's gone to a new owner that will love it and drive it. . It basically sat here and was growing moss beside my garage. Too many other things to drive..... The Maxima alternator is one of those things you can do when/if you need a new alt..... you don't really have any lights or high-powered accesories to run so the stock alt should be fine for now. GD

Yeah - make 3 more posts and then you will be able to PM. GD

There aren't any benfits. Just higher price. The Exedy kit has the same stuff in it that you find from the factory. Daikin is what you will see on the OEM parts and they are owned by Exedy. GD

Exedy from Amazon is the way to go. Best price and excellent product. GD

Well there IS going to be an issue because the '95 Legacy doesn't even have a secondary O2 sensor..... the Outback isn't going to like not having one. That can easily be corrected if you can weld though..... GD

All the 5 speed VC's (in north america) are the same from 90 to 98 AFAIK. They are all "4 Kg" units and I have not seen a difference among them. Contact me via PM and we will work out the details - I can get you a picture, etc if you like..... let me know. GD

No, and yes..... and it's a bad idea to use a turbo R&P unit because the plumbing is all backwards. That's an EA82 body and your '81 Brat is much narrower (2 generations narrower in fact). It will not work without a lot of modification. You might be able to use an EA81 power rack without as much trouble. They are narrower..... but I haven't heard of anyone doing it. You really don't need power steering anyway unless you get crazy and build a tranny with a front LSD like I built for renob123.... that Brat could use power assist. Otherwise it's not needed for rally-x. Ask renob123 (Jacob) about it - he will tell you. GD

Check for good, hot spark. You might have a bad distributor module. GD

It's just like a butterfly on a carb - they are set so they cannot stick as well. Typically by an idle speed screw that keeps the plate open a very small amount. You will see when it's light out - just take the airbox off the throttle body and you will see the butterfly. Honestly if it's not the cable's then I can guarantee it's the throttle butterfly as there is nothing else to cause such a symptom. Perhaps a cleaning as sugested will do the trick.... but my experience is that these don't stick like that - even after 300k miles they don't stick unless someone has messed with that screw. Could be some flunkie at the dealer - who knows . GD

You would think that, but a heavy-handed press operator could deform the bearing pocket resulting in premature failure of every bearing that's subsequently installed into that knuckle. It's actually been such a problem that Subaru has advised their dealers that a Hub-Tamer (Hub Shark, or Subaru Special Tools version from Kent-Moore) is the prefered method as it is MUCH less likely to deform the knuckle bearing pocket. GD

No one makes a kit so you are out of luck there. As I said most of the bearings will NEVER fail so it's cost prohibitive and senseless to replace them. The main shaft bearings are the only failures you will see and on them it's pretty much just the rear's. All the tiny needle bearings and such are not in danger of failure - these transmissions will go a quarter million miles and have one rear shaft bearing fail - after replacement they will go another quarter million and then the same one will fail again. That's the nature of the beast. GD

It is part of the design. That's called the fast-idle cam and it increases the idle speed when the choke is engaged. As the choke warms the idle speed will drop in stages. When setting the choke it is always wise to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times and on the last pump leave the pedal pushed to the floor, pull out your choke to the desired setting, and then release the pedal. GD

Usually the stop screw and it's nut have a dab of paint on them... Older couple.... yeah. Was the old man prone to tinkering? Just the kind of thing I would expect from somoene familair with carbs but not the slightest clue about throttle body's..... Just adjust it till it doesn't stick. That's all it's for - to keep the throttle butterfly open just enough that it doesn't stick in the bore. It also, neccesarily, means that there's a controlled air leak around the butterfly - which will increase the idle speed a bit. GD

The fact that both 3 and 4 were doing it calls into question the coil pack and the ignitor module on the firewall as well. Either could have been damp.... but with the wasted spark system the coil pack only has a single coil to drive both the #3 and #4 plugs..... thus if you have a misfire on those two cylinders it's almost a sure bet that the coil and or the ignitor is the cause of the problem. GD

Someone messed with the throttle plate stop screw trying to adjust the idle. Now the plate it sticking in the throttle bore. GD

It's a sweet design - really an industry first. They will work out the few problems eventually. I look forward to when they work out all the issues - it's based on an old variable speed machine drive called a "Reeves Drive" and once they get the bugs worked out of the software it should be a great unit. Very few moving parts. GD

They have been addressing the issue through redesigned gaskets. Some of the issue here is not just Subaru - this has been an industry wide trend over the last decade or more. One of the problems is that Subaru doesn't make gaskets themselves (most automaker's don't) - they rely on a gasket supplier to build them and it's a give and take process. One issue here is the *perception* on the part of joe-public that Subaru has had "head gasket problems" since the introduction of the 2.5..... which while technically true doesn't convey the whole situation. To wit: 1. The EJ25D had problems with the combustion gas ring on the head gasket sealing to the block. This was because the cylinder walls were made thinner on the 2.5 when they bored and stroked the 2.2 to get the higher displacement. This problem was eventually solved with MLS gaskets. 2. The EJ253 and EJ251 use a gasket that is a single layer of thin metal upon which is a "glue" type of compound. It was found that this glue can wash away from the metal and cause seepage of both oil and coolant. The combustion gasses are no longer a problem because they solved that in the EJ25D. This problem with the seepage was also solved with a revised head gasket. 3. Not all stop leak products are made the same. The stuff Subaru uses is very fine and does not clog radiators and heater cores if used properly. People continue to SPECULATE about this possibility yet not a single reliable source has yet shown this to be a problem. Literally 10's of thousands of Subaru's are running around with one or possibly two bottles of the stuff in their cooling systems and having another bottle added each time they are flushed and refilled..... yet no examples of heater core or radiator clogging have been shown to be related to this product. Subaru deems it safe..... in my experience (I was skeptical at first) they are correct. I don't see a problem with it. As a stop-gap solution to replaceing the head gaskets it's a no-brainer. $3 for many tens of thousands of miles.... 4. There are alternatives to paying the dealer to do head gaskets at their rediculous prices and their terrible policys on doing them in the car. I typically can do a head gasket job for about $600 parts and labor..... usually it ends up being closer to $1000 because people wisely replace timing components and other wear items while the engine is out. GD

If you don't have a shop with many tools and/or experience with doing these wheel bearings you will be ahead having it done by a shop that is familair with FWD wheel bearings like these. It will cost about the same to have it done as it would to buy the tools to replace it yourself. Buy the bearing and the seals and take the whole knuckle into a shop. GD

Subaru engines are anything but crappy and if you really beleive that I would sugest that you probably aren't qualified to render your judgement on such a subject. Yes there is a design flaw - but it has been addressed and it's not a big problem. If these engines were so crappy then my Forester wouldn't have over 250k on it nor would you be able to find many similar examples - which you most certainly can. It's a gasket. They fail. It happens. Get over it. GD

I don't use the stuff till I see external seepage. I haven't had a single gasket failure on any Subaru engine I've done gasket replacement on. I always use Subaru gaskets of the latest availible revision and I install them 100% dry on surfaces that are smooth, flat, clean, and prepared with lacquer thinner. GD

Heh. Thanks for the positive comments. Though I actually built that machine around 5+ years back.... been sitting here without the love of a proper owner since '07 at least. It was my first SPFI conversion and thus it was the test platform for doing EA81's with SPFI. The EA82 went in there as a place-holder for the EA81 that was going to get a performance build..... but it didn't happen. Though the EA82 has 16 more HP than stock so it's not such a bad thing. I've learned a lot and grown as an eletrical and mechanical artist since I built that one and as such I consider it rather amature in it's implementation. Not bad per-se but I tend to pick my work apart and see things I could have done differently/better the next time through. I'm really happy that it's found a loving home where it can get the restoration it deserves. Better than collecting moss beside my garage where it's sat for the last 5 years. Just imagine what wonderous things I must have to play with that this one was left to grow green stuff (in basically the same running order that you see it in now) alongside my garage. . Yeah I know I'm spoiled . GD

The Subaru "conditioner" (stop leak) actually does work quite well in MANY cases of external leakage on the EJ253 and EJ251. I have a Forester that leaked so severely from the drivers side head that I figured it was a sure bet I would be doing the head gaskets soon (6" puddle under the car, constant burning of coolant on the exhuast, top off every day or would overheat the next....). My dealer parts guy sugested I try two bottles of the stop leak and it hasn't leaked a drop of coolant in over 20k miles now including two virtually non-stop 550 mile trips from Portland to Reno and back again. So don't knock the stuff too hard - it can and does work. The problem with the gaskets was an issue with the sealant washing away from the thin metal substrate. They changed the sealant being used on the gaskets in the newer revision but if it's only leaking some coolant then it's not that big of a deal to add a couple bottles of the conditioner and see where it leads. And no - the product is not Bar's. It's Holts Radweld - a european product. And I have not seen any evidence that it plugs radiators or heater cores. It dries in the presense of air and thus if not used properly or if too much is used it could cause problems. Subaru says up to two bottles at a time. Two bottles worked great for me and at a cost of $3 and 10 minutes..... it's a hell of a lot better than doing the HG's. As stated - this product does nothing for the flawed EJ25D head gaskets or the typical style of failure that occurs on the EJ22's and early EJ25's. It is not meant for sealing combustion gasses - it is meant to stop external leakage which is does very well. GD

No problem Greg - Subaru uses only two types of solid lifter arrangments on their EJ series engines. The type used depends on if the engine is SOHC or DOHC. Being that all 2.2's were SOHC - they all use the screw-style adjusters. DOHC engines use either a bucket/shim arrangement or shimless buckets ('04+ IIRC) because the cams ride directly over the top of the valve stems instead of there being rockers with a screw adjuster and a single cam centrally located between the intake and exhaust valve banks.... There simply is no room for the screw-style of adjustment on the DOHC engines. GD