GeneralDisorder

The ONLY time I remove transmissions is when I'm changing them out or rebuilding them. That said, it's far easier to remove them from underneath. I use 6 ton jack stands on both ends of the vehicle to get it high enough, then I recently bought a low-profile transmission jack from harbor frieght for $80 that works great for Subaru transaxles. I typically shim the engine away from the radiator with a block of wood before I disconnect the pitching stopper (otherwise it will pitch forward when you take the tranny out). While it can be done without the jack, it's a real lifesaver. I've done the last two with it and it's been great. GD

The 4 speed's are so stupidly complicated inside that it's not even worth the trouble to dissasemble them. The 5's are incredibly easy by comparison. GD

The original U-joints were not *meant* to be replaced but it can be done. They are staked in place and so they take a bit of work to get out. The replacement's are actually for a Toyota. Any driveline shop should be able to get them and many driveline shops can do the replacement although there have been reports that some refuse to work on the EA82 shaft's They are common as dirt in the yards though so it's often easier to just get a used shaft. They don't fail very often. GD

You have a ways to go before you are the resident Hitachi expert. I *might* currently hold that title but then I don't want to step forward and proclaim myself some kind of wizard that will be able to solve everyone's Hitachi problems over private message . The damn things are best left for the trash compactor. They can be made to run alright, but they are SLOW. The vacuum secondary kills the deal for me and the fact that there is no good way to control the air supplies to the metering ports without a bunch of thermo-vacuum valves and crap..... I digress. The EGR is the canister looking thing with the vacuum nipple on it behind the carb. You may indeed have a leak there. Remove the EGR and clean it - make sure that no air can pass from the exhaust side to the intake side of the valve. Then just reinstall it and disconnect the line to it to insure that it's not going to open and cause you an issue. GD

Sounds like classic DOJ failure or lack of grease to me but it's hard to pinpoint without being there in person. Wheel bearings generally make either clicking/crunching noises, or they howl at freeway speeds. Thunking, or your "Ka-Thunk" noise could be a number of things - DOJ failure or binding due to lack of proper lubrication is a common problem. Also failed ball-joints can thunk and sometimes tap or rattle - especially when changing load as when suddenly accerating from a coast or stop. But to my trained ear, you are describing DOJ failure. When they get really bad the whole car will vibrate anytime it's under load. When they get INSANELY bad the culprit axle will violently pitch that side of the engine up and down causing it to feel much like one wheel is going over a washboard of speed-bumps. I've seen a fair number of DOJ failures..... in case you didn't notice GD

Have you checked the fusible links? Make sure they are tight and have continuity. Next - the fan is only powered when the climate control selector is in any posistion other than "off" so you'll want to check for power to your climate control panel and insure that the buttons are working properly. They are dual-purpose in that they switch on the blower circuit as well as reroute vacuum supply to the flapper-door actuators. If you took it apart be aware that you need the climate controls connected while you are checking for power at the switch or blower motor. Obviously any time you are checking power at the switch or motor you will need to have one of the modes other than "off" selected. Besides the switch and motor there is also a resistor pack down in the ducting near the blower that provides every fan speed except high. I haven't looked at the schem. so I don't know if the switch is switching the ground or the power to the circuit. Someone will probably know or I'll dig out my book. GD

Being that a lot of the EJ22T's show up on the used car market and most without owner's manual's..... although it does say on the back side of the fuel door "premium unleaded only" Or do as I do - drive something that takes regular and get's better than 16 MPG on a daily basis, and keep the turbo for special occasions. I love my SS, but I don't drive it daily. For one thing I don't need the speeding tickets. GD

The owners manual cautions against running less than 92 octane as you can cause damage over time by doing so. I don't know exactly what they are refering to when they say you can cause damage, but the cautionary statement is there and without more detailed information I wouldn't do it. I run nothing but Chevron Premium in mine. It says you can do it in an emergency but cautions against prolonged use of sub-premium fuel grades. GD

Call one of the online dealers and place an order over the phone. The online parts listings won't have them. GD

In theory, you are correct. But the reality is that both sides will have different amounts of friction due to bearing differences, wheel/tire mass, brake disc drag, etc, etc. So that it is NEVER the case with an open diff that they both turn the same amount. One will always turn at driving speed, the other will maybe rotate slowely or not at all. That is 100% normal and to be expected. So what is the nature of the noise when it's being driven? You are getting a thump, thump noise when it's under load? Sounds like a DOJ, CV, or maybe a wheel bearing issue. I doubt there's anything wrong with your transmission. GD

Remove the stock filter and install a plain one inlet/one outlet fuel filter. You don't want or need that vapor seperator. In fact you don't need a filter in the engine bay at all as there is one back by the pump. The "filter" in then engine bay is really a vapor seperator not primarily a filter. Remove the canister and just leave the tank vent open. GD

What changes were you wanting to make? I can tell you right now that unless you have a parts tranny it won't be viable to repair it. You will need a 35mm thin-wall socket to dissasemble the 4's. These are not easy to come by - I had a 35mm axle nut impact socket turned down on the lathe till it fit. GD

The new set I have on my EA81 hatch came from www.thepartsbin.com - they were some japanese brand and fit like stock. I would also look on www.rockauto.com - they have a good selection of harder-to-find stuff like that. GD

I've seen plenty of factory head gaskets blow. Original's of course. I don't think it really matters which one you use if you install them properly. The reason I use the Fel-Pro's is they are designed not to require a retorque. The OEM gaskets are supposed to be retorqued after a run-in period. That, and they are half the price. Try Autozone. GD

This is what you want: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100559 GD

No, the feedback system wouldn't have anything to do with the fuel pump. The EA81 feedback system does not control the fuel pump. Yeah - with the Weber the feedback doesn't do anything anymore. It's only job was to regulate air to the high speed/low speed air-bleed's of the Hitachi. GD

Talk her into an STi and you'll have her Outback, a Wrecked STi, and a closed casket service. Count yourself lucky - mine is 90 and I got her Buick ...... and the house with the two-car garage that she kept it in GD

Always liked the front-end on those. Probably one of my favorite looks along with the bug-eye WRX's. Nice score - looks like it needs a manual swap GD

I have NEVER had to replace a stock pump. I could see them rusting out in the rust zones, but here they seem to last forever. They have plenty of volume for every engine I've built with a Weber. I currently have two rigs running Weber's and no troubles at all. GD

Check the vacuum supply in the engine bay and the connections at the accumulator (the white, tank looking thing at the top of the passenger side firewall). The actuators are vacuum driven and without a vacuum supply they will do nothing and be stuck in the last posistion. The actuators and the switch rarely fail so it's most likely a supply issue. GD

Smart Service is going to tell you the same thing I will and I don't even have to look at it: 1. The head gaskets are blown. 2. You have a coolant leak (maybe they can even tell you where). 3. You won't know the extent of the damage (scored cylinder's, cracked heads, etc) till you tear it down. This is IMPOSSIBLE to diagnose without incurring labor costs. I'll lay down $100 and tell you the heads are warped and will need to be surface ground, but beyond that.... it's all ???? Have your dad and friend pull the engine and remove the heads. They can then inspect the cylinders - if everything is OK there - take the heads to a machine shop and have them pressure tested and if they aren't cracked have them ground and put them back on. If they are cracked hit up the board here for a replacement set. If everything is not OK with the short block, install a good used engine. There's plenty to be found - just ask in the wanted section. With people parting out cars, others doing EJ swaps, and the general dislike of the EA82 in general, there are lots to be had for cheap. That's one perk to the car - the engine's are a dime a dozen and no one wants them. GD

There isn't much you can do on the phase-II EJ22's - Subaru pretty much maxed them out already. The Phase-I EJ22 was 135 HP, and the Phase-II is 147 HP. You could do exhaust and intake but don't expect more than 5 HP. Maybe 10 HP and some added torque if you invested in a set of cams. If you want real power, you are going to have to look into turbo-charging it or swapping it out for a turbo engine. But that's not a "strict budget" kind of thing at all. The EJ22's will handle low-boost (5 lbs max) all day long and it pushes them into the stock WRX performance range pretty easily. 200 HP isn't out of the question on a low-boost, high comp. EJ22. GD

Well - you have voltage drop somewhere - could be through the switch. A bad connection will draw a bunch of amps but they are generating heat in the poor connection rather than kicking the solenoid out hard and fast. If you are hearing clicking then it's not the brushes but it could be burned contacts in the solenoid. More often on the EA82's it's not the starter but either a bad connection (often in the battery cables), or somewhere in the harness. I've addressed all the connections, replaced ignition switches, starters, etc - only to have the problem return. Once I installed a relay in the crank circuit to take the load off the switch the problem went away for good. I've had to do this on several EA82's. It's something deep in the harness that I don't feel like ripping them apart to find. GD

I've said it before - cut your losses and buy a Legacy. There's no point in dumping any kind of money into a car that will be worth $500 tops even after you are done. EA82's are worthless out here. Especially Loyale's as anyone that wants one wants a late 80's GL with the dual range. I just bought a mid-80's GL sedan - fairly low mileage, clean, straight, and with timing belts/water pump, clutch cable, and a host of other repairs done in the last 5,000 miles by a very reputable shop. I paid $900 for the car, and I only paid that much because my woman wanted that specific body style. I'll be doing an EJ swap on it anyway.... you see my point? You are college educated - do the math my friend. Then take a look at my post count and how long I've been here. Most everyone will back me up - sell the car for $200 to someone that can put in some HG's and has the time/inclination to do the upkeep on a Loyale, and buy something that is worth putting your money into. You won't regret a Legacy I promise. GD

My Thermal-Arc 180 was $625 if you are ok with upgrading to something that's 220v. I have a thread in here in the shop-talk forum about my recent purchase if you are interested in where I got it and the specs. I found my 110v machine to be very limiting and flux-core just doesn't please me most of the time. TA is on-par with Miller and Lincoln - it's Tweco's welder division. GD