GeneralDisorder

You can buy them still from the dealer. Also check in the for sale forum here - there's posts there at times selling sets. You may need to purchase an 89 FSM, and then find the supplements that address changes for 90 and 91 as there probably wasn't true FSM's made for the Loyale years. GD

There is, but an FI filter would *work* for a carb. It's bad to go the other way, but an FI filter is rated at a higher pressure than a carb filter so it's just overkill. They generally have a metal casing for their higher pressure rating although I've seen plastic one's in some applications such as the early Bosch FI in my 78 squareback. Did I mention I prefer glass? GD

Not much. If it's got a 5 speed D/R and your's is a 4 speed, then with a few modifications you can install that. If it's got rear disc brakes those will fit. Otherwise there really isn't anything that will fit an EA81 without modifications. GD

+1. What you have is an example of what I stated above - ANY fuel filter will work. You could plumb in virtually anything you want. These are VERY nice, and you can actually see what kind of junk is comming out of your tank, and the replacement elements are 2 for $3. Bottom of the page - "Universal Glass See Through" http://www.empius.com/2008_catalog/empi2008_pg106.html You posistion it above the shelf so rocks can't get to it, ect. GD

Have you replaced the alt yet? You are going to chase your tail till you do. GD

You can use any filter. I like the EMPI ones for VW's with the clear glass tube and a replaceable/cleanable element. About $8 GD

Nothing about what you want is simple. It will require a large amount of custom fabrication. The rear is completely different. The only thing that will fit in 5 lug is the XT6 rear disc brakes. You can clock the torsion bar to lower it. The front is also completely different, and much harder. The axles are shorter than newer gens including the XT6, so custom axles are required to fit any other hub. The ball joints for the XT6 hubs don' fit the control arms either, so those have to be modified. The strut tops are two bolt rather than the later 3 bolt so modifications there are required as well. Basically there is no combination of parts that will bolt on so you might as well just do a full custom install of whatever you can get in Norway for reasonable money. GD

At this point we are talking about whatever we like cause this post is two years old and the original poster is long gone (he was worthless anyway). GD

Poor voltage from the alternator regulator will kill fuses - you want to fix the alternator first or you'll probably just keep blowing them, and bulbs - maybe smoke a few more components. GD

The alternator definitely is putting out AC - replace it. You may also have blown fuses from the sounds of it. GD

Any play is bad. For the cost of an EA81 pump, and considering your recent cooling system problems, I would replace it. Be VERY careful if you haven't ever had the pump off. The bolts are small, and easily broken off. Work them back and forth till they come out. Chase the threads in the block and run each bolt through a die. If you buy any pump besides the OEM, toss the cardboard gasket and use RTV (1/16" bead, and let it setup for 1 hour before starting the engine). If you buy the OEM pump it comes with a Three-Bond coated cardboard gasket that works very well dry. Replace the heater core bypass hose, and if it's looking sad, the bypass pipe as well as the smaller coolant hoses that run to the carb base. This is a good time to block those if you don't want it. Use new hose clamps all around, and get the German "embossed" clamps with the rolled edges. GD

That's a dual Hitachi. I met the guy that built that a few years ago before he died. GD

The going rate for a used transmission of that type (in good condition) is around $75 to $100. You can buy 5 to 10 of them for what a single rebuild will cost. The Subaru 5 speed's generally last 300k+. Usually outlasting the engine by quite a bit. GD

You are going to be looking at a minimum of 1 hour's labor on a blast cabinet to do a set of rims. Probably closer to 2. At my shop our hourly rate for shop time is $82 - we don't do media blasting as a seperate service, but we have the capability to glass bead parts and components of machinery as part of a rebuild or service procedure ect. I often spend an hour or two doing various parts that our hot-tank will damage, or that need to be extra special clean. I've heard it's around $100 to have a set of rims blasted around here locally. It definately beats the hell out of sanding things by hand. I often stay after work to play in the sandbox with various Subaru parts GD

There is no machine shop service required for bearings. Knuckle doesn't even have to come off. And the roll pin holes are not tapered. They go in either direction. The EMPI axles should be at least as good as the GCK's - I've got a set to put on my hatch soon so we'll see. Can't beat $58 each and no core for brand new units. GD

Yes - use half ATF and half cheap gear oil for about 100 miles. Don't drive like a madman or it will be hard on the front diff. Drain and refill with Scotty's - I use a modified Scotty's myself: 2 Quarts Redline Lightweight Shockproof 1 Quart Pennzoil Synchromesh 1 Quart Castrol Hypoy-C 80w90 The Shockproof is the "active" ingredient that will cure the clicky's and the grindy's. I swear this stuff will raise the dead when it comes to transmissions. GD

The ER27 is an EA82 with two extra cylinders. *basically*. Most of the parts do not interchange however, so everything for ER27's is big money. Small production numbers over very few years. Oil pressure is somewhat concerning. The lifter design is the same as the EA82 so it could just be poor functioning lifters. PULL THE OIL PUMP and check for wear. Across all Subaru motors if the previous owners have used cheap oil filters, or not changed them enough, the oil will bypass the filter once it's clogged and junk gets sucked into the pump. Even if the pump looks good the lifter ticking demands you replace the seals anyway. If there is any doubt about the pump, replace it. Replace the sending unit regardless. Flush the tranny with ATF, then fill it with scotty's cocktail. Should help if not cure the problems. GD

Um - where did that come from? And what model of carb is that? Would you consider selling it? GD

Unless it's a early 70's or older Weber it's got an EGR port. People only disable the EGR because they don't understand it. GD

You don't "skip" the SPFI and go to a Weber. SPFI is superior or equal in every metric. Especially off-road. You can't smog a Weber in CA - you could swap back and forth between the feedback and the Weber, but that's a HUGE pain in the rump roast given the way the feedback is setup on a EA82. SPFI you could smog - you just tell them the engine is from an 88 and have it reffed. Trust me.... or waste your time. Your call. GD

You don't need the dash out to replace the vents. I find decent sets occasionally - eventually you'll run across some. GD

Sadly, the EA82 feedback carbs are a total mess. Buy a factory service manual, take out a loan for the parts and the tools to fix it, and make sure you have some vacation saved up..... don't forget to pay the AAA membership on time. SPFI conversion would be the best way to handle the "situation" you have got yourself into. That is, without a doubt, the WORST carb Subaru ever made, and possibly one of the worst of all time. GD

Download this - it's the 89 FSM engine section. It has the D-Check procedures in it. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip GD

D-Check is not the same as checking for stored codes. You need to run the whole procedure. It is possible that the 34 and 35 are not allowing the ECU to finish it's self-test procedures. You MUST fix all codes then RETEST as some may not show up if others are active. Till you fix the existing codes, and start running proper D-Check procedures you will be entirely frustrated, and basically chasing your tail. GD

Have you ran a full D-Check? GD