GeneralDisorder

I too think brain tumor or recreational pharmaceuticals. I work in security in a downtown area that's mere blocks from where the "homeless" hang out. It's very much like talking to a lot of them. I deal with them on a nearly daily basis - moveing them off the property when they try to sleep on the benches and in the alcoves, and confronting them when they are being aggressive or agressively panhandling. Argueing with them is futile, and about 25% of the time I have to get some form of authorities involved to take them away or tresspass them from various businesses. GD

I've NEVER seen an EA82 non-turbo head where the cracks caused coolant leakage. I've also NEVER seen a head without the cracks. Subaru issued a service bulletin in the 80's to ignore the cracks between the valves. They are normal to this engine and you won't find a set without them anyway. Likely your leaks are a result of bad intake gaskets. Have the idiots at the shop do an actual pressure test. GD

Correct - I believe it also requires a MAP signal from the computer. If you were industrious enough it could be done with some creative circuit design and fabbing up the TPS to the carb throttle. Well - all except the fuel system which has to be rewired through a carb FPCU (if you want it correct and safe), and the system run off a carb pump rather than the hi-pressure MPFI one. GD

The whole bearing assembly must be replaced. There were two types used - early bearings were a single sealed unit, and later they changed to the three peice affair with two taper bearings/races and a spacer. The part numbers were superceeded and the new part is backwards compatible. All EA series 4WD trailing arms use the same system - only the bearing assembly itself changed in design. The WHOLE mess has to come out not just the outer taper bearings. GD

At least in EA81 land, the senders aren't all that different - just different resistance values. The analog dash will read the digital sender but the guage will be wrong. Reads like 3/4 when it's full. My EA81 wagon was digidash (w/trip), and I converted it to analog. GD

That would be neat - I would also be very interested if your access to documentation could possibly provide any sort of schematics of the dealer check plugs - something that might be used, or that might give a hint of how to use, the plug. I have several resources at my disposal for electronics design and fabrication. It would be neat to replicate the "tool" if for no other reason than to say I did.... The SPFI is a simple system and maybe it wouldn't be too difficult. Removing the kick panel is a pain, and it would also allow locating the ECU in a more inaccesible area where the LED can't be seen (although I'm sure that I could wire up a remote LED too - but I bet one of those pins already provides that function). GD

That's a Carter-Weber for sure. You can always tell by the large fuel cut solenoid on the very front. On all the Hitachi's it's on the front right corner at an angle. They are difficult to find rebuild kits for, but often do not require rebuilding so much as just a tightening of the base. The base of the carb gets loose from the manifold - unfortunately to tighten them requires that they be removed as the offending bolts are inserted up through the bottom plate and are inaccesible without removing the carb. Best bet for parts is the dealer. GD

3, 10, 11, 12, and 37 are dealer check pins that connect to the diag tool - they allow the dealer to check and clear codes without opening up the kick panel to see the ECU. When I do harnesses, I leave the diagnostic plugs in place and don't touch those wires. Done this way they *could* still be used if you wanted a dealer to take a look at it. I have also removed them for some, but it really doesn't help matters. GD

Dealer GD

It may only be on the 5 speed models, and it's not only the GL-10's because the EA81 digi's did that too and the digi came in plain GL's in the EA81 days - probably in the EA82's as well. GD

The rack does mount differently, as the power rack is larger. There's extra holes, and hard lines running in and on the cross-member, and the skid plate mount is removable for installation of the rack as it would be impossible otherwise. On the non-power crossmembers the entire cross-member must be removed and the rack slid out from one side. This is both not possible due to the dimensions of the power rack, and not desireable from a service point of view. GD

Pretty typical. My Brat and my EA82 sedan (both Webered at one time) average 26 to 29 in a pretty religious way with a mix of about 2/3rds freeway/hiway and 1/3rd city. Less in the summer due to hot, expanded fuel. 4WD manuals are just geared like that. The 2WD manuals generally can get up around 32 or so. My wagon, when it was a 2WD 5 speed, once averaged over 34 on a mostly freeway trip of about 600 miles. GD

You make pipes?!?! As in tobacco pipes? How did you know I smoke pipe? Holy amazing coincidence batman! Well I surely won't refuse an offer like that... Are you by chance a member of pipes.org? I'll send you an email with my info. Good times, good times. GD

Just call up the people at 1stsubaruparts.com: https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/tollfree.html They ARE a dealer in washington state, and will gladly ship anything you require from the old-school friendly west coast. Being internet capable, and being a dealership here on the left coast they have uber experience with EA81's. GD

Doubtful. Clutch kits in my experience are best purchased from the dealer. Their quality is higher, and the price is generally only about 25% more than cheap aftermarket. My local dealer can do EA clutch kits for me for about $160 or less. GD

You can't drain the tank that way - the pump only runs when the engine is running, or when cranking. It is located on a triangular shelf directly behind the drivers seat under the bed area. To drain the tank, remove the 12mm bolt that serves as a drain plug on the bottom of the tank. Probably best if you have that much contamination to just drop the whole tank and treat it so it doesn't rust out. GD

The speed sensor produces a square wave. On all the EA's (no reason it should be different for the XT6 as far as I can see) it's a voltage signal that varies from 0 to 5 volts - the frequency of the square wave indicates the speed. Thus the more quickly it varies the faster you are going. The speed sensor for the EA's is inside the speedometer but the fact that the XT6 is a "reed switch" would tend to indicate it's probably the same or at least similar. Have someone hookup an occiliscope to a working unit for you..... This wave *can* be replicated, but you will need to build a small circuit to do it. Do a search for square wave generator circuits and you will probably find a ton of easy solutions. GD

Any EA81 with power steering actually. Just not the Turbo's. GD

"!=" is the symbol commonly used for "not equal" in the geek world.... GD

Some of the ones I've seen were metal. Perhaps a difference over the years. GD

Actually a automotive engineering major (IIRC), and respected member here flow tested those intake snorkels and they are not a restriction of significance to a stock EA82. The sound is deceiving - it has the psychological effect of making one think they are getting more power. The badge on the rubber snorkel is definately a good find though - I hadn't payed it much attention before you mentioned it. GD

Anytime I can - but of course that's never as much as I would like. GD

Here's my definitive work on the subject: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html Not all that difficult really. OEM cables only - all others suck. GD

New is great, but the GCK's are not only new, but also redesigned using more modern manufacturing techniques. I'm sure Marshall does a great job, but he still has to work within the bounderies of the off-the-shelf parts he can use to build his axles. Also his prices are higher when you include shipping, and although I'm sure he's fast, he certainly isn't Autozone - he's not down the street from me, and open 9am to 9pm 7 days a week..... GD

That's how they are here too: EA81's have the "handbrake" style lever, and the EA82's have a curved lever that comes up higher and goes through the same console as the gear shift - take a look at the actual linkage UNDER the car and you will see what I mean. The EA81 lever should work fine if you add 1" to the rod that attaches to the tranny with a round pin. Regardless of RHD or LHD the tranny's are the same - only the linkage is different. The 4 speed and 5 speed have the same connection at the tranny for the the linkage, but the 4 speed is an overall longer transmission, thus the need to lengthen the 4WD rod to account for the shorter 5 speed D/R attachement. GD