GeneralDisorder
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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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This is a clutch hydraulics or fork problem. Check for leaking slave hose, or deflection in the fork. Does it squeak? It is very common for shops to not grease the fork pivot or not notice a cracked fork leading to premature failure. GD -
Poor quality parts were used if this is failing 9,000 miles after replacement. Replace it all with Japanese parts. If that's the quality of water pump used..... I would be questioning all of it including the head gaskets and the labor. GD
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You have a bad water pump. That leak is from the "weep hole" which is not visible till you remove the pump. You don't want to run straight water in the system as it has no shaft seal lubricating properties like coolant does. The pump was likely on its way out already though. GD
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The D pistons don't have valve reliefs because of the dish. The 2.5 turbo pistons similarly have a dish (with a dome in the center) and don't need valve reliefs. All the others have them. GD
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D pistons have a square dish in them. 251 pistons just have valve reliefs without a large dish. GD
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Yeah they do that. Piston slap that is. Are you running 251 pistons? Cost for knurling is $120 per set. You will have to file them down to fit each cylinder. GD
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If it's producing heat on one side of the car then the core isn't the problem. It's some type of flapper door actuator problem. And yes depending on the problem it may require substantial dissasembly of the dash. GD
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Replace the PCV valve. And stop using 20 weight. Run 5w40 synthetic. GD
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Check the seat on the radiator filler neck. If that's not it, then I would suspect the coolant cross over o-rings. Pressure test it well above operating pressure. Like 20 psi or even 25. You'll find the leak.... GD
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It doesn't work like that. The crank will be trashed besides. We never reuse cranks. 100% new replacement. DO NOT split the block. The skills required to be successful at it are hard won. Without hands on training the first time is sure to be a total failure. GD
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Need some advice on my Hatch
GeneralDisorder replied to Unknownjeremiah's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Failing to idle but having enough power to drive is not a indication of fuel pump problems. Fuel delivery problems would get worse as demand for fuel (engine load) increases. Idle is the least load/lowest fuel demand condition. GD -
That combo runs fine using 25D management. GD
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Should be closer to 1 bar. GD
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Rotary Powered BRAT?
GeneralDisorder replied to nimblemotorsports's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
It's been done. But Mazda rotary engines are garbage for reliability so it's really a pretty poor idea to put one in..... anything. GD -
Timken doesn't make wheel bearings for Subaru's. They buy them from NTN or NSK - one of the Japanese manufacturers that makes them for Subaru. They do this to "fill out" their catalog. What you bought is most likely just an OEM bearing in a Timken box. GD
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I wish I could. I hate working on EVO's. But the owners are crazy and they bring in 50% more labor for virtually any job that isn't spark plugs. English Racing makes an absolute killing off those fools and I've witnessed their "work" first hand. No comment. GD
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Take the car to a competent shop. You have screwed the pooch. GD
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The 99 block will say EJ25 on it, it will have a square shaped dish in the piston, and it will have an 8 bolt bell-housing. A 98 will have a 4 bolt bell-housing, and a 2000 will have flat top pistons. 99 is unique having D pistons and an 8 bolt. GD
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Easily tuned out with a Tactrix cable. But illegal. GD
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It does sound like the float needs adjustment - but also check your fuel pressure. With a gauge. GD
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That's too high. What pistons are you using? And what heads? There was many options discussed in this thread but you didn't specify what you actually are now using. GD
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Point in fact - it's absolutely too much trouble. For the same amount of work you could do something that's actually FUN. Like swap an LS into an older F body or even a C/K truck/blazer. And yeah - it's quite a bit of trouble. Very few people out there that can do this in a weekend and have it running (I'm saying this AS ONE OF THEM). For most that attempt it - they spend a month or more (sometimes years) getting them operational. The end result isn't that worthwhile. The rest of the car is mechanically unable to support the power of something like a 20G turbo. That would tear the Loyale in half like Jesse Ventura with a phone book. GD
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I vote for screwy sending unit. GD
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Wheel bearing. Most likely pass rear. GD
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It depends on how you do it. Full swap with 5x114 or 04 axles, auto driveline, and keep the R160. I would say about $4500 on the low end, and upwards of 7-8k on the high end figuring wheels, tires, etc. GD
