GeneralDisorder

No problem guys. It's not directly applicable to the EA82, but gives the idea behind what I did. I was just fed up with the 4 speed mounts - tried to order some and got a phone call that they were out of stock, etc etc. So I got under it and just layed there till something came to me . Works quite well actually...... probably sell that set I made as the 4 speed blew up, and now I have a 5 for it. GD

No - the problem is the lack of MLM gaskets, and the lack of studs to get decent torque on the heads. Several folks have detonated pistons, collapsed ring lands, and blown rods too. Copper gaskets have been done. Didn't work any better. The solution is to o-ring the block, have custom studs made to replace the bolts, and have massive amounts of computer management to hold the heat from cracking the weak coolant passages in exhaust port. But as yet no one wants to drop the coin on that stuff - especially when EJ's are so cheap. GD

It's because *nice* wagons came with factory sun-roofs. So it's easier, and cheaper to just find a wagon with a sun-roof. The t-tops are ok, but I find my sun roof on my wagon to be just as useful..... maybe not as cool looking, but as I also own a Brat with T's..... if I want to look cool with the T's up I'll drive that instead GD

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=2454&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 It's an XT6 actually. The builder is a good fabricator - there's no "frame" - not from a yota anyway. It's all attached to a custom sub-frame. GD

Yeah - I know this is an old thread, but this incident occured since it fell out of use..... If anyone has doubts about the EA81's - ask Jerry (Bratsrus1) for pics of his nephew?'s coupe. I beleive it was an 83 or 84 2 door coupe. I know he rolled it.... several times..... at a obviously good clip. I saw the car in person and can attest to it's complete destruction. There wasn't a straight panel on it, and the roof got flattened a bit. He told me the kid walked away with only one scratch on his nose. His mother was so impressed they bought him another soob as a replacement. Also - one good aspect of the EA81/EA82 design is the placement of the spare tire - it forces the engine down and under the passenger compartment in a crash. They probably aren't the safest cars ever made, but unless you drive like a total idiot you aren't likely to be in any great harm. At least the doors don't jam shut and the fuel tank rupture in a rear impact GD

I've never had that happen, and I have 4" blocks back there. Mine are not tied together, but are stronger at the body connection because I use open blocks and don't use bolts that go all the way through. I use the original bolts to hold the block to the body, and a seperate nut/bolt to hold the plate to the blocks. I've hit stuff VERY hard - hard enough to bend my front struts. Ask anyone that saw my rig after the last show . The key is to keep the bolts tight at all times. If they get even a little loose you'll rip the metal apart. GD

Still - depends on year. SPFI had neutral switches on the tranny - carb did not. The shape/type of the connectors also changed over the years.... GD

Yeah - the PK lift that many use is that way. The 3" kit has 2" blocks for the leading rod plates. Just make sure you use 1/4" wall channel. GD

Diff lock switch only locks the center diff. Front and rear are both open unless you have an LSD rear diff. GD

It will be written on the strut top itself. GD

Depends on the tranny. Some have neutral switches, and some don't. And there's other differences as well. Push button vs. D/R, etc... GD

I drove one like that but with a 4 speed brownie.... "Deep under", "Under", "Direct", and "Over" gears. Plus the two speed rear..... many a poor hapless log truck driver has broken an arm trying to reach *through* the steering wheel to shift both boxes . Nasty stuff. Incidentally, newer trucks still have the brownie's - but they are all air-shifted now. GD

It doesn't take much, and without removing the distributor it's unlikely you would be able to feel the play as the shaft is engaging the cam drive gear, and isn't free to flop about like it would if you removed it from the engine. 1/32" is more than enough to cause a lot of problems. GD

Here's my write up on it: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

You don't have to do that - you can use the stock EA81 consoles. My Brat looks 100% stock inside. Just added a 2WD 5 speed EA81 shift knob to mark the extra gear. Using the EA82 consoles looks like poo. Not much point in me taking a picture - have a look at your 4 speed interior - that's what mine looks like. GD

Worn shaft bushings. The air gap between the reluctor and pickup isn't steady. GD

The cables are not greased. They are filled with a dry white lithium lubricant. It's not serviceable, and isn't worth messing with as the cable's cost about $18. A properly routed cable from the dealer should last at least as long as the clutch. 100,000 on a cable is common. GD

You just can't beat old TM 9-8000. Army technical manual - 780 pages of goodness covering virtually everything to do with automotive mechanics. I have a paper copy myself, but it's availible here for $6 in PDF.... http://www.chqsoftware.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=497 Can't beat $6 for the valuable information in there. It covers EVERYTHING - tracked vehicles, hydraulics, turbine engines, etc, etc. GD

Speed sensor should not cause stalling. Don't even need it hooked up to run. GD

It would throw a CAS sensor code if the sensor was dirty, or the interrupter disc was mis-aligned. But generally the FI distributors don't have this problem as they have real bearings for the shaft instead of sleeve bushings. GD

That's indicative of carb distributors, not FI. GD

AC voltage from a bad alternator rectifier is the only way all those warning lamps will illuminate. Not saying there aren't other issues as well, but low voltage alone won't do it. Unless there is something very jinky with the ignition switch and it's passing voltage to the bulb check circuit while in the run position..... but that's a bit like saying UFO's took your dog to explain why he didn't come home :-\ GD

Idle switch is the only one that would cause a stall condition. *maybe* a really, really bad O2, but not likely. Neutral switch wouldn't do anything at all that you would be able to notice. Sounds like the TPS is either bad, or wants adjustment. GD

I doubt you need bushings. You probably need to mod the roll-pin hole in the shift rod. Do a search for "4 speed slop". That should get you some applicable threads. GD

I thought he meant putting the EA82 in the EA81.... that requires notching. GD