GeneralDisorder

Number isn't important. You are looking for the cylinders to be within 5-10% of each other. Test with throttle wide open, all plugs removed, and fuel pump fuse removed or pump disconnected. Crank for 5 seconds per cylinder to avoid draining the battery too much. GD

Yes - please leave. That would be FABULOUS. GD

Engine, tranny and suspension transplant? Seems like an aweful lot of work to me..... I say that having done it before. And you realize that the Hatch tank is shorter right? A normal wagon/brat/etc tank won't fit. It's hard to find them here usually because hatch's are the second most rare after brat's. And half the ones you do find are 2WD tanks. GD

The 4 speed gearing, and the big tires are going to kill the mileage. Granted it should be a *bit* better than 15, but not a lot. My lifted wagon started as a 2WD 5 speed. With the Weber it got 33 mpg. Once lifted, with 215/75Rr15's, and the 82 4 speed (same engine, same carb, no changes at all), my mileage is 20 - 22 mpg. 35 to 40 is laughable - whoever told you that was on crack. The Justy was barely that high in 2WD form. The EPA rating for a stock EA81 (non-turbo) was 28 to 30 mpg. And mostly you'll see 28 or 29 on a stock 4WD in my experience. GD

Oh yeah - and there's the bit about the EA71 not haveing any flywheel that matches the 225mm clutch disc. So you'll be stuck with the 200mm 2WD clutch. Which if you are planning to lift it..... is going to suck. Been there GD

Actually it's a 3 groove, you just haven't seen the PS system to understand. The 3rd groove is between the alternator groove, and the AC groove. You probably just thought that was a vacant space. GD

That's turbo specific. The turbo uses the EA82 PS system. GD

4WD swaps on EA81's (EA71 in your case, but same body) aren't as easy as people think. #1 The tranny tunnel won't fit the 4WD tranny - you'll have to beat it, or use spacers like a lift kit. #2 Exhaust is different from the y back #3 The 4WD lever mount doesn't exist. Fabrication time. There's more, but it's been over 2 years since I did my wagon, so I can't remember right now. It was a pain in the butt, and I'll never do another one. Also - good luck finding a 4WD hatch fuel tank. GD

Cams, and MegaSquirt will get you what you need. MegaSquirt would also allow you to fit a larger throttle body for more low-end. As a side benefit, with MS, you could drop in an EJ22 (or a JDM DOHC EJ20) later on with minimal wiring effort. GD

That's a locking CENTER diff, which is completely different from the limited slip REAR diff. And you want to leave it unlocked for pavement. Still not as good as AWD (Legacy, etc) as it doesn't have the viscous coupling center diff - rather it's just open, or locked (for dirt, snow, etc). Better than 2WD, but you still lose all power to the ground if one wheel is up..... It's too bad Subaru didn't use Torsen diffs like some of the old Audi quatro's.... All GL-10's, and many turbo's etc. had that. It was also standard with digital dash cars IIRC. Usually they aren't too accurate unfortunately - especially on the turbo's as the older turbo's rarely get good mileage at this point - expect 20 mpg or less. It's common. If you drive like grandma, and tune/replace your injection sensors..... maybe 25. Keep your foot out of the turbo. The trip computers weren't able to check the fuel consumption - only the level of the tank, and based their calulations off that - pretty far from accurate usually 20 years later. Plus any modifications you make to the engine will invalidate it's pre-programed formulas. GD

We have two pulleys - the 1980 (maybe some 81's) pulley is a single groove, and all the rest were 3 groove pulleys. Both are just single peice pulleys. Power steering has nothing to do with the AC. Brackets or otherwise. It's entirely seperate. GD

Our EA81's never had crank driven fans. PS is on the opposite side, so has nothing to do with AC here. Our glove boxes are all the same size. Must be a weird LHD thing. Our pullies are all one-peice. Guess not huh? GD

You have the splines lined up 180 degrees out. You it only lines up one way - 180 degrees will look close, but it's about 1/2 spline off. You need to turn the cup 180 degrees and reinsert the pin. GD

One peice push rods are hydro. The aluminium rods with steel caps are solid. GD

Basically it's worth what someone will give for it. You can't really put a value to it - it's going to be worth more to someone restoring a Brat in Arizona, than someone in Alaska . Going by u-pull-it prices, I would say all the bits would probably run you about ~$75.... depending on the yard, and how well they know you. It would be helpful to the community here if you could scan or photo the instructions that you have. Those can benefit us all..... GD

I didn't cut anything. The rack and column are not modified. I just used a second u-joint. GD

Performance upgrades? Yeah right. Looking for unicorns is fun too. Get an EJ22 if you want performance. For 27" tires, you are going to want a lift. You'll just beat the hell out of the body without it. For rims - just drill some chevy/toyota 6 lug, or convert your hubs to 6 lug. Pug rims are too hard to find replacements if you bend one. GD

They do if you want it to work smoothly. If everything is setup correctly you should be able to go in and out of 4WD high at freeway speeds without using the clutch, and with no resistance of the lever. GD

You should have asked us before you went and bought it. Not a good choice for a lot of reasons. That's cause there really isn't any. Not in the sense that you mean. There's things you can do, yes, but without full-on engine management, you'll blow the engine if you try to take it much past 10% above stock, and you might blow it doing nothing at all - don't look at it cross-eyed - they don't like that. We've seen about a billion of them, but if you must..... the 5 speed is good, but the part time 4WD is not appropriate for pavement. Unless it's the Full-Time 4WD model? Those are good tranny's, but most models were not equipped unless it was an RX or a high end GL/GL-10. Do a search for "5 lug swap". You'll need most of the front suspension from an XT6, and part of the rear to do it. The stock 4 lug has zero wheel/strut/spring options. It can get expensive because XT6's were rare, and are getting tough to find. Haha. With the heavy shell, and whopping 115 HP, you're going to be one of the slowest cars out there. Special? Yes - don't do it if you value your heads/headgaskets. BTW - you don't have an intercooler. These engines weren't built performance minded - many have come before you, and still others have spent years (I'm not kidding - we have a member that's spent years working on making a 200 HP EA82T even somewhat reliable, and he works for a subaru dealer). I can't even count the number of times he's "given up" on this engine. Without very expensive machine work, custom parts, and very, very sensitive engine management it's not going to happen. And when an EJ22 can be had for a few hundred, and tops the EA82 by 20 HP with no turbo at all..... well it's just not worth the time or effort. Anyway, your going to do what you like regardless what we say about it. But when you start looking for an early 90's turbo Legacy with the EJ22 turbo, and 5 speed AWD, you won't be able to say we didn't warn you. GD

Stab it with an ice pick (awl). Flashlight time. Drink two beers before starting - it may take marginally longer, but you won't be tempted to offer any small animals to the crankshaft gods in a late night cerimony. GD

That indicator has nothing to do with the fluid. That's a seperate indicator. The "!" with a circle means a bulb is out. GD

Looks kosher to me. Why would they lie about it? GD

It's the brake lamp checker. There's a device in the brake lamp circuits that will trip that indicator if the bulb fails. Corrosion in the bulb socket can also cause intermittant illumination of the indicator. The checker's themselves rarely fail. GD

AC voltage. Replace alt. Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic. -- Arthur C. Clarke Just replace your alt - I really am not in the mood to explain the ins and outs of AC voltage for the billionth time on here. Search for it if you care. GD

It's not the HP so much - it's the torque. The engine can't breath at low RPM, so the torque curve sucks on the small valve engines. Peak torque and peak HP are nearly the same, but if you look at the curve, it's quite a bit different on the lower end. Sadly the low end is what you will notice too - that extra 1 HP isn't going to make a noticeable difference at freeway cruise, but the extra air off-idle makes a huge difference in the low end grunt pulling power. Same reason we put the huge 32/36 Weber's on in place of the 26/30 (or 28/32 on the EA82's) Hitachi: more air = more low end torque. High end isn't changed at all with a Weber - we do it for low end torque, and for reliability/tuneability. The added low-end makes turning large tires actually possible. The performance gain of a Weber or SPFI will be dramatically reduced with the small intake valve heads, and if you are putting heads on the engine, I wouldn't spend the time or money messing with small valve heads when there's tons and tons of large valve heads to be had cheap. GD