GeneralDisorder

Aint that the sad truth! Light the passenger seat on fire, and drive like hell.... GD

No ill-intent here. I'm merely sugesting that it may be futile if he can't spend over $20. Jeez - just my OEM timing belt tensioners were $50 today. Owning old cars can upset the bank account if you aren't careful. Turbo's especially. GD

Um - you try a tire store? Mine were $25 each brand new from Tire Factory in Beaverton. That was a few years ago, but they are just white spoke "trailer" rims in chevy 6x5.5". I think normal price is around $27 to $30 each, but I got a deal and I bought 4 tires to go with em so.... yeah. GD

Gallon of gas and a match? Seriously tho, the EA82T's are a pain in the butt. Best thing is to get out from under it and get an SPFI or something. If it's not one thing, it's another with those T's. Especially so if you can't even afford $20 for a noid light. It's going to nickle and dime you into debt.... is it worth 25 HP? GD

Mitsu's are indeed some of the worst. They have had such a hard time peddleing them they offer the best financing around. It's also interesting to note that Mitsu (Japanese) supply's all the drivetrain parts for Kia and Hyundia (Korean). And the Japanese people hate the Koreans for the most part . Bad juju for sure. GD

An aired down swamper would still have more contact patch than two full-pressure swamps of the same size..... this is one reason the military is doing away with the dual's on their trucks. Rubber compounds, and the advent of radial tires (yeah - I know the ARMY is a little behind the times tho) allows wider tires and CTIS systems. You can't air down dual's without serious risk of damage. The first Army rig with CTIS was the DUKW (amphibious 2.5 ton "duece"), and unlike all the other dueces it's got no duals. This, and it's amphibious nature prevented it from carrying a full 2.5 tons of cargo generally. It was a problem to say the least, and one of the reasons it was retired. The M35-A3 version of the duece (CAT turbo deisel) hasn't got duals either, as it's got the electronic cab-controled CTIS system. Maybe for a quad - wide, low pressure tires..... yeah it might work for those, but I'm no quad expert either. GD

The 5's are nicer - partly because of the shift linkage, partly because of the better clutch release bearing, but mostly because the low range is lower, and 3/4 are near the same as the 81/82 4 speed. 5 is nearly useless except for 65 MPH+ on the flat and level freeway runs. Personally I've fought with the 4 speed linkage too many times, and the 5 is so much nicer that I would swap them just for that reason alone. The rest of the stuff is nice, but largely ancillerary. You haven't lived till you've tried an EA81 with SPFI and a 5 speed GD

Till you really slam them hard in reverse and rip the reverse out of them, yeah they are strong. Forward gears are fine, except for the 3rd gear syncro which will still usually work even if it's thrashed. But when reverse goes.... it GOES.... as in get out and push. I ripped the reverse out of my 82 4 speed with a Hi-Po EA81 and 28" tires. GD

If it's like later models you not only have to connect the green's (after it's been warmed up), but also follow the D-Check procedure (depress accelerator, return to half throttle and hold for more than 2 seconds, start engine, drive more than 5 MPH for at least 1 minute, etc). But I have no idea if that's corect for the EA81T as my 83 FSM doesn't cover the turbo. That's how it's done on the FI EA82's tho. GD

There's no such thing as a "bolt on" front clip. You can swap the fenders and bumper/valence, but if anything under the panels is bent you will have to straighten it or weld a new front end on (possible, but too expensive normally). The only direct replacements (same color, same trim) would be 85 and 86. 87 to 89 will fit but the trim will not match, and 90 to 94 Loyale's will fit but the trim will not match either. $300 for a crumpled mess is too much. Let him sit on it. GD

No - different pressure. GD

Use a 1/4" ratchet and a deep socket. It will be either 8mm or 10mm depending on year. GD

No inline fuses. Just burp the bubbles out of the coolant by squeezing the radiator hoses with the car facing uphill. Fan should cycle before it hits red on the guage, then go back off after a couple minutes. Look for the temp sensor to sit about 1/3 on the guage most of the time. GD

Oh - yeah I'll do that now. The AA rims are fine, but simply not neccesary with chev 6 lug rims availible for $27 each brand new. At least that was my feelings. GD

You can still get the red stuff - it's industrial grade rather than automotive grade. Good stuff, but not a lot of places carry it. If you care, you can still get the molded heater core hoses at the dealer for pretty cheap, but $1 a foot for generic 5/8" is hard to beat, and works fine. Just be careful removing the old ones - it's easy to smoosh the heater core supply tubes as they are just brass (or is is copper... I think it's brass though?!?). GD

The wacky camber in the rear doesn't hurt anything really - as much as it looks weird, it's not a problem because the rears aren't steerable wheels. Bad camber on the front is not good on the tires, but the rear isn't a problem. Get some chevy rims - wider offset, won't rub, and will handle better without the sway bar. Like this . Seriously dude - you have to drop by - I have toys...... GD

Besides the strut tops, lifts are pretty simple. SJR seems to know his stuff, and there's quite a number of folks using them. I wouldn't worry about axle angles - it's over-extension you have to worry about more than anything, and you can stop that will travel-limiting straps. If you are enterprising enough to build the steering linkage I would sugest buying his strut tops and possibly the diff lowering shim if you want one, and doing the rest of the blocks yourself. 1/4" wall channel makes perfectly adequate lift blocks. I've pounded the hell out of mine, and I managed to bend my struts - blocks are all solid as the day I installed them. I have a local place called "metal supermarkets" cut me 2" sections of 2x4 1/4" wall channel ($5 each - you need 10 for the front, and the rear depends on how you do it) and then drill 1/2" holes in either end. Use the stock mounting bolts to mount the block to the uni-body, and then use some 1/2" grade 8 hardware to anchor the suspension to the blocks. I had problems in the past with using bolts that go all the way though the block into the frame - besides them being a LOT more expensive, as the blocks flex it puts a lot of strain on the long bolt, and the bolts can break, or damage the capture nuts in the frame. The steel that the capture nuts is welded to is only about 1/8" thick and doesn't take much flexing to eventually cause a stress fracture. Useing the stock short bolts with a hollow channel block is both inexpensive, and avoids potential problems with 5" bolts flexing. GD

Yeah - I know Well said BTW. I can be less than tactful at times... thus my tag. Now that I've dragged the carcass out to the pen, I'll let you dogs chew it up GD

Not much. If it's 4WD, then it's a single range 1600, and if it's 2WD it might be an 1800. Still - not very desireable unless you really like the looks of it. 2WD's aren't very desireable anyway, and 1600 single range's aren't really sought after either. I would say $500 or less depending on condition, and tending toward "less". Personally I wouldn't buy it at any cost as it wouldn't have a single part I could use - even if it has an EA81 in it, it's a small intake valve, solid lifter engine..... not the desireable ones I look for. GD

Usually the clocks just need the solder joints on the back remelted with an iron and they are fine. They crack with age is seems. Remove the glove box to get at te plug, and just pry the clock out of the dash. As for the climate controls - you'll have to remove the cluster surround to get the control unit out - and I would probably just replace that thing. I've never seen one with stuck buttons, but it's probably all cracked and messed up if that's the case. Easier to get another one. GD

Pretty much. I've never broken one. Some of the HUGE lifted rigs have twisted the stubs in two, but that's with nissan t-case's, 10" of lift and 32's, etc. No street rig that I know has blown one that wasn't run out of oil or something. The 510 crowd uses them too, and our LSD's are sought after for their rally builds. GD

IIRC, they are pretty spendy?!? I'm not sure tho. I think it's a standard size you can get at Napa or something. Bring the old one in with you and see what you can find. GD

You increased your fuel pressure (it's the venturi effect of forcing the liquid through a smaller opening), and it's "masking" a sticky float. I would say it's fine, but if you notice really bad mileage then it means that the float isn't capable of shutting soon enough and the fuel level is too high in the chamber. It could also damage the pump eventually as they aren't really meant to be run "dead head" (means without a return to the tank). GD

It's too bad your Subaru experience had to be with a turbo EA82. They really are probably one of the worst for routine problems. It's not to say they weren't good vehicles, but just that after 20 years the added complexity of the turbo system makes them an undesireable choice for the mechanically un-inclined. Definately an "enthusiast" car at this point, and you really have to love it to keep it on the road. If you run across a deal on an early 90's AWD legacy don't hessitate to pick it up. It will have that feel that you like, and be the maintenance free machine you would have liked your wagon to have been. The SPFI Loyale's are alright as well - just stay away from the auto's. GD

I know the climate well - I was stationed in Maryland durring winter, and traveled to New York, etc. Besides that I've seen winter in Korea with -40 temps. You are 6 years older than me - hardly a decade, and I've been wrenching since I could hold one. Most especially I've owned and operated far more subaru's than you. Regardless, temps cold enough to change the molecular structure of steel are in the cryogenic range, which STARTS at -238 degrees below zero. Cold enough to freeze the water in your toilet, not to mention the blood in your viens. I'm not the only one that's annoyed by your ranting, word-salad posts, and your inability to learn anything from the educated, and well-worded members here (but I may be the loudest ). You disregard everyone's opinion but your own, and your posts are basically about "look how I fixed this and none of you knew what was wrong!". We don't want to hear about you fixing things that: don't exist/aren't broken/have nothing to do with the problem. Either learn the correct terminology and take some classes on basic theory, or go away. Seriously - do you see me being a huge rump roast to anyone else? Definately not to this degree anyway. A LOT of people are sick of it. I have tried to help you, and it goes no where. I can't see a logical process you are taking to solve problems. What you do is almost akin to reading chicken bones, and making voodoo dolls. Sorry, but this isn't the way we solve problems in the age of science. GD