GeneralDisorder

What you will see is the head gaskets squirting out into an adjacent coolant passage with that kind of boost.... If it doesn't crack the head through to the cooling passage in the exhust port. At that kind of pressure, the combustion temps will be too high for the thickness of the exhaust port wall, and without multi-layer-metal HG's, the pressure will destroy the graphite based stock units. O-ring the block, copper HG's, studs instead of bolts so you can get proper torque, SERIOUS water intercooler, exhaust manifold temp sensors wired into a VERY good engine management system..... maybe you could do it without damage for a little while anyway. GD

Clean air filter or clean PCV filter? They are two different filters. GD

He says he's running the turbo and asked if the carb short block will handle it.... the answer is basically NO. At least don't expect it to be reliable in the long term. You may get 500 miles out of it, or you may get 5,000 miles, but sooner or later that high comp. is going to get you. Heads have nothing to do with comp. ratio's on the EA82's. It's all in the pistons. GD

I would go for a little larger diesel. If you want diesel that's fine, but that engine probably will not cut it on the highway. Especially with the 5 speed D/R. The RPM's are all wrong for the gearing in the 5 speed, and if you add a lift and tires you will be lucky to get that thing to 45 MPH. The 5 speed is very tall geared. 5th gear at 60 MPH is 3,000 RPM, which I'm sure is past the power band of that diesel. Diesel engines have a very narrow power band, and something that redlines at 4500 likely has a useful power band between about 2000 and 2500 RPM. Past that and the power/torque drops off badly. This is why semi's have a tough time with hills. The power band can't rev up enough to get you to the next gear, so up a hill you are stuck going 15 MPH in 2nd..... etc. Take it from someone that's driven diesel trucks with engines too small for their own good..... It will work off-road but you will hate life on anything asphalt. What about the 4 cylinder diesel used in the old rabbits? Apparently you simply can't kill them..... and no electronics. They used them in the rabbit trucks too.... GD

4th gear in the 4 speed is close to the same, but a little lower than 5th in the 5 speed. The jump from second to third is definately the biggest gearing problem for the 4 speed. You can cruise nicely in 3rd gear at 25 MPH with the 5 speed. Low range changed from 1.45:1 in the 4, to 1.59:1 in the 5. GD

Did you replace the foam PCV filter element inside the air filter housing? They are real cheap from the dealer, and you need the REPLACE it. I've never had any luck cleaning them unfortunately. GD

Personally I just use a razor blade and some castrol super clean or carb cleaner. Then I use a good quantity of brake cleaner to make sure there is no residue of any kind on the surfaces. This is of course if I'm not milling them. I've found that almost every EA series head I've pulled off is warped (unless they have been milled already), and when they come back from my cylinder head guy they are REALLY clean so no worries. I razor blade the block, and chase all the threads in it. As long as it feels smooth and you can see metal, not old gasket debris, you should be fine. GD

Third gear syncro is gone. It's relatively common on the 4 speeds. Your best bet would be to swap in the 5 speed. Better fuel economy, vastly improved shift linkage, and lower low range gear. There's not going to be any way to fix it without rebuilding the tranny. I had one that was the same way - I could get it in gear if I held it FIRMLY in 3rd and released the clutch while holding it. It would click hard and go in. Of course I bought the car knowing the tranny was bad, and replaced it immediately. GD

Carbed blocks are 9.0:1 You can do it, but I would rebuild it first. This combination is known for not taking a lot of punishment. Several folks on here have tried it, and most have blown them up in only a few thousand miles. The extra comp. doesn't work well as the EA82's have weak heads and head gaskets. As for better internals.... the rods are bulletproof, you may be able to get some better pistons from RAM performance (and maybe a bit lower comp.), and it would be best to replace all the main and rod bearings too. GD

Best way is to weld the tank. You drop it, clean the tank out very well, and let it air dry for a few days or so. Then you hook up a low pressure air source to the tank so that any welding sparks are blown outward. Clean up the rust, weld in new metal, and then treat the entire area with POR15, and paint it or coat with bedliner. Or you can just find a new tank. I wouldn't use any kind of sealant or epoxy. Easy enough to just get another tank, and removing it is probably one of the WORST jobs you will ever come across on a subaru. It would be worse than losing the family pet to have to do it twice.... It's trapped up there by the diff and diff hanger, it's full of dirt on top of the tank, and you need about 16 arms and 37 thumbs to get all the hoses and filler tube unhooked without totally ruining 25 miles of rubber tubing that's old and crusty from 20 years in there....... yeah.... can you tell I hate that job? GD

I understand what you are getting at, but the flange is superior. Larger diameter spreads out the load better, and it's easier to change the axle. No need to compress it to slide it off the splines, just remove the bolts and pull down. GD

Comp. testers are about $9.99 at harbor frieght - invest in one if you are shopping for used cars. GD

If the kid wants a truck and knows how to play the parents, he may have just "disabled" the car somehow. Pull him aside if you can and see if you can't get it out of him. Or it could just be that he's a moron. Which is more likely for 16 yr olds these days it seems.... GD

Not the entire car - just some select suspension components. It's nothing that the baja bug community hasn't already done many times over for a couple decades. There's many examples of super beetles with 25-30" of travel. Getting something like the H1's geared portal's going for a subaru will be a lot more difficult, but I have a few ideas there as well. I need to expand my machine shop tools but I know it can work - it's just going to be a matter of how many prototypes I have to break before I manage to get it right. GD

To do a 5 lug, first you have to find an XT6 that's "partable"..... well just doing that is hard enough so I'll leave it alone. 85/86 rear struts are adjustable for height. You can turn the adjustment (lower spring perch) with a large pair of slip-joint pliers. Front..... well as mentioned without major mods or the 5 lug you are stuck. The KYB GR2's are good, and relatively cheap. Need a spring compressor for the front to change them. They sell cheap ones, but after using one I can say there is no safe place in all the land, and if you value all your appendages get one of those full-body blast suits the swat guys use for bomb handling. GD

Yes, that's the general idea. Sadly, the early z-car u-joint axles are not useful for a subaru as they don't have enough stretch, and also cannot be used on the front end due to the need for CV's on the steering axles. Mainly the change to the R200 is because of the R160 stub weakness, as well as the availibility of air lockers for them. GD

I have to agree to some extent with the above, but I must add that independant CAN work if done properly. The Hummer H1 is a good example. The axles ARE fuses. I've broken more H1 axles than I care to remember, but the saving grace is with 12 bolts the axle drops out and drops in again in about 15 minutes. The automatic does help (all H1's are auto's), but the trucks weight just under an a$$load, so there is still a LOT of forces on the axles. Mostly I've broken them trying to climb boulder ridden mountain sides under full lock turns, etc.... Independant is definately still my choice (anyone that's driven the H1's much would agree), and when I get around to it (and my funds get around to it) I'll most likely be using some combination of porsche 930 CV's, R200 diffs with air lockers, and a Samuri t-case with 5:1 gearset. There is some engineering that must go into the axles, but it's nothing that hasn't been done already. The R200 is already set up for flange mount half-shafts, so it's basically a marriage of the two (subaru, nissan truck), with some custom control arms to start, and later add the 930 CV's with a slip yoke.... yeah it's a mess. Safe to say that with the stock diffs and axles you will be sorely dissapointed as they are not up to the EJ22 and t-case. Sorry. GD

Check ball joints, radius rod to control arm bolts, radius rod bushings, transmission and engine mounts (common), and of course lift blocks/bolts. GD

Should work similar - the EA81T had a recall to replace the oil-cooled unit with a water cooled unit, which I beleive is near identical to the EA82T unit. Of course the recall kit came with hoses and fittings to plumb the coolant supply in as well... GD

Axles won't be much of a problem if you get NEW axles that are well built. You are going to destroy a LOT of diff stubs. Rooinator was having that exact problem with his. When you get up into the 30"+ tire sizes, the Hitachi R160 isn't going to cut it. The R200 from a nissan (same as the STi rear diff) might be a better choice, but you are going to need custom flange mount axles. GD

www.carbsunlimited.com GD

Clutch can be replaced, or you can find a whole compressor pretty easily. It's the brackets, tensioners and such that are difficult to find - you have the "dealer" installed AC system, it's the only one that fits with a body lift, and it would be a shame to see yet another one go to waste. GD

I've never measured overall thickness, but there should be a good 1/16" of material above the heads of the rivets. That's how I usually judge them anyway. If I had the thing out, I would probably replace the pressure plate and maybe the disc if it was worn down too close to the rivets. I've had a lot of weak pressure plates that don't grab hard enough anymore.... GD

Why are you removing the carbon can, and the EGR? There's little point to removing either, unless you like smelling gasoline, and making more work for yourself. Keep the AC compressor - that style will fit with the lift, and you can use it as an on-board air compressor. Those accell coils are junk BTW - very high failure rate after they switched their production to Mexico. Carry your original as a spare, or better yet just put it back in. It will probably never die. GD

Also, when fitting what are essencially truck tires, you need to do contact patch tests for proper inflation pressure. Inflating to 35 psi like the sidewall sugests is not going to be correct for a light subaru. It's also helpful to know the optimum aired down pressure for off-road. In my case with 28" tires on my EA81 I have to air down to about 7 psi for best traction. GD