GeneralDisorder

Never heard of it. Probably cheap aftermarket. Not OEM unless it's got the fuji logo on it. GD

Yeah - the internal edges of the gasket "melt" into the carb passages - namely the accelerator pump areas. Makes em act weird. GD

I've heard that as well from other threads. The EA81 does not require this as the rocker arms are fully adjustable (a "leftover" trait of the EA81's solid lifter heritage). The Delta web site shows pictures of the welding proccess so I'm sure that's part of the procedure. Why the shimming is needed I don't know for sure. GD

Wheel bearings - probably. Stumble - either vacuum leak or carb needs rebuilding. GD

That's what delta does - they use a spray welder to build up the lobes, and then grind them down to the selected pattern. But Delta knows what they are doing, and their multiple step process is designed for camshaft regrinding. They harden it, balance it, and there are several other steps involved that make their process superior than that of a "normal" machine shop. Pretty much all they do is cams, rockers, valves, etc. Very good work IMO. Oh - and you don't even have to take off the timing gear off. They do that for us at no charge which is nice on the EA81 as getting that pressed-on gear on and off is a pain. GD

If you search around on this board you may come across a few posts about people that have made their own resistor pack from off the shelf electronics. More reliable, and cheaper. But actually I find that these don't seem to fail so much in the regions where the temps don't get too low. Here in OR, I rarely see these fail. It does happen, but most I find at the junk yard are good. GD

They are fairly rare, and parts are extremely difficult to find. 70,000 is a LOT of miles for a 360. They were awefully slow, and so weren't driven much generally. It's common to see them with less than 50,000, and sometimes a lot less. Worth - depends on condition. Showroom might bring well over $10,000 to the right buyer, but likely it's not in that kind of condition. GD

I've had aftermarket intake gaskets fail catostrophically. The dealer ones are metal and very strong, while aftermarket ones are cardboard, and once they soak up some coolant often they will just blow right out the side, and create a HUGE coolant leak. I had one go after lasting about 9 months. Same situation - started overheating, and a gigantic cloud of smoke from both the tailpipe and engine bay. The heads do warp if overheated, but that's an easy fix - just have them milled straight again. Usually costs about $30 per head. I really don't know what your mechanics problem is. Besides if he really new his stuff, he would have at least offered to check those manifold gaskets. GD

You can swap just the foam and cover easily. Just undo the hog-rings, and replace them with zip ties on the new seat's frame. GD

Yeah - the EA82's don't have bleeders on the MC (weird, since the EA81's do...), but they still sometimes need to be bled. Basically crack each line in turn and pump till you get a good flow from them. That's how I've always done it. GD

Frankly, you can eliminate almost all of those vac hoses while still retaining the original Hitachi. The feedback system does require a few more, but even that can be simplified if you just understand how things work. And if you use a non-feedback carb, all you need is the manifold vacuum to the heater controls in the cabin, the vacuum advance for the distributor, the EGR (unless you eliminate that too, which can be done), and the choke pull-off. The other lines are not required, but it does take some knowledge to remove them, or reroute them. GD

Just check them first. Usually milling them once is enough. They don't tend to warp the second time around. But always check with a good metal straight-edge, and a feeler gauge. GD

Delta does a quality job, and their grinds are the best option as they are tested, and known to work well with the USDM EA81's. Using other stuff is possible - I've heard good things about the RAM performance stuff, but the cost will probably be similar if not more, and they are usually acustomed to the aircraft engines that are meant to run at high RPM (6,000+). For low end torque, the Delta 252 RV Torque grind is most appropriate. They have other grinds for high RPM, but I wasn't interested in those so you would have to call for details. GD

Ask around on the board here - maybe in the wanted section, or make a new post here in old gen. I know if you were around here I would say drop by on a saturday and likely you would go home with that fixed, and maybe a few extra parts too. Lots of us crazy subaru types have small welders. GD

As long as you don't weigh 350 lbs, that's an easy weld. Anyone halfway competent with a small MIG box could make that stronger than new again. GD

Funny thing is the JDM EJ20 is rated at more HP than the USDM EJ22 - without any turbo's at all. I think it's 150, vs. the USDM EJ22's 135. Damn good price for those. The N/A EJ20 would be my choice - half the price too. GD

1. Kindof. The code means the solenoid has malfuntioned. The EGR valve itself (which is controled by the solenoid) it purely mechanical, and while it does need to be cleaned every 60k or so, the ECU cannot tell if it's working or not. 2. Correct. The resistor "looks" like a solenoid to the ECU, so it assumes it's working, and the code vanishes. 3. Correct. 4. No - the resistor is just a replacement for the solenoid that appears to the ECU to be a working solenoid. If the wireing is somehow messed up, then the resistor won't work either unless as I sugested you put the resistor under the dash AT the ECU's terminal 4. 5. Correct. Replacing the valve itself will do nothing. 6. Correct. The EGR does not help this engine in any of those aspects. It's sole purpose is to lower specific (env. harmful) emissions components. 7. Incorrect - the ECU will only stand a certian number of codes before it goes into "limp" mode. This will reduce your mileage, etc. Every code should be cleared to insure the ECU is running the correct fuel and timing maps. 8. WELL....no comment. Just make the code go away. Either replace the solenoid, and clear all the codes, or put the resistor in and clear the codes. GD

The 02 is found on the 2WD's, and the CA emissions 4WD's. The "49 states" vehicles did not have them. You can either put a non-feedback Hitachi on it, or you can put on another carb, but without the 02, the system will not run correctly at all. It will be very rich. You could add the 02 to this "new" y-pipe if you have access to a welder. Just find the right sized nut, drill a hole and weld the nut over it. GD

Yeah - the blocks can be bent. Especially when you start getting taller blocks. Then they need external bracing. But for a 3" or 4" block, it's near impossible to bend them. I've never bent any of my 3" or 4" blocks (3" on the radius plates, and 4" on the cross-member). I have seen 3" x 3/16" wall blocks bend - there were some on nick's wagon when he bought it. He bent them without problems. My point was just that when the blocks DO bend, the bolt (and hence capture nut) won't bend with it. So you have a better chance of not being stranded, and maybe you only have to replace the block. Nick's 3/16" wall blocks were open design, and while they did bend and get "crushed" slightly, the bolts didn't come loose because they didn't go through the block. Yeah - driving it home was actually ok. Better than I thought it was going to be. But I did only have about 60 miles to go, and it was all straight level freeway. Turning was the suck tho. GD

Just install a Weber. Without the 02, mileage will be very poor. About 15 MPG. GD

That's not completely true. With a long bolt going all the way through the block it certainly is. As the block flexes (and it WILL flex) it puts huge strain on the long bolts because they are forced to flex with the block. If you do as I sugest and use hollow blocks with the original short mounting bolts this bolt flex does not occur. The block is allowed to flex independantly of the mounting bolts, so puts little to no strain on them. I've done crazy stuff with my lift - at the show (and several folks can attest to this) I went so fast down an extremely un-improved fire road that I nearly lost control, and ended up bending the front struts so badly I wasn't sure I could even drive it home. The camber is fubar to say the least. I was probably doing upwards of 35 - 40 MPH, and I was bouncing so violently I couldn't even see straight. Didn't hurt my lift or mounting bolts at all. Long bolts running through the block is a BAD design. The bolt (and the capture nut in the frame) has to flex with the block. The taller you make the block, and thus the longer bolt you have to use, the more pronounced the flex will be. This is why any lift over 4" has to be designed to use the original short bolts. For one thing you can't even find large enough bolts, and the flex is so great at that amount of lift (5" and up) it will rip the capture nuts right out of the frame. It's stronger to use short bolts - even with a small lift. Period. GD

You just have a stubborn air bubble in the master cylinder. You need to bleed the MC first before bleeding at the wheels. And with air at the MC, you may need to bleed quite a bit before you get good pressure at the wheels. There are two bleeder screws on the bottom of the MC - one for each circuit. Bleed both of those, and then proceed to each wheel - making OFTEN checks of the MC to make sure it's full. Top it off after each wheel, and perhaps even halfway through bleeding each wheel. If it gets too low, you will have to start all over again. GD

To avoid all this testing and hassle, you can just put the resistor right under the dash from ECU pin 4 to ground. That will stop the code FOR SURE. GD

Choke power has no correlation to fuel mixture. Insulate the dangling wire, and work on adjusting the linkage or whatever you have to do to correct the mixture. GD

+1 on that possibility. You need to pull the head. It's fubaru. Best bet is to try to find another good used head. That will be the cheapest "out" for your scenario. You have to pull it - period. And then it's not certain it can even be reused without a pretty expensive machine shop bill (think near or over $100), so might as well try to find a good used one for less and save yourself a trip to the machine shop. GD