GeneralDisorder

There was a huge debate about this - do a search - it will turn up. Short story - Accel changed their supplier to a different factory in Mexico, and after that all the Accel coils have sucked, and have an alarmingly high failure rate. There is a Napa part number that is the same as the old Accel before they switched - search will turn it up I'm sure. As for the coil - you should be able to use any coil - the while ignitor thing should just swap over. That said, you will get pretty much zilch for your effort, and are endagering the life of the ignitor. The ignitor is matched in resistance to the coil, and you can cause them to blow if you change one and not the other with a matched unit. Best thing to do is get an 82+ distributor, coil (OEM), and internally regulated alt and convert the thing. Better system, and simpler too. GD

GLF-5 is not something we got here in the states - you will have to check your local sources. Probably right hand drive, so nothing from the US will work. Any right hand drive Brat dash (made till 94 in some countries) should fit your 83. Other than that, there are no aftermarket sources for *new* interior components - your best bet is the dealer, but don't hold your breath for that, and be prepared to put a child or two up for adoption if they have any.... GD

The justy's do need the oil pumps replaced about every 100k, but once they start knocking, that usually signify's a rod knock - it's most likely already on the way out. Replace the pump if you like, but know the damage may already be done. GD

It really all depends - I pulled 220 on every cylinder from my EA81 hydro lifter block. Fairly low mileage from an automatic. No rebuild or anything. My EA81 in my Brat with 175k on it pulls 150 in every cylinder. Both run equally well. As was said - it's not the numbers, it's how even they are. Anything lower than 90 should be investigated - possibly a partially blown HG, or something. Subaru engines do not really get burnt valves, and do not wear the cylinder bores - and it would take a TON of miles to wear out a set of rings (well over 300k). GD

Doh! Exactly as I suspected - someone used the wrong part number. Silly previous owners anyway.... GD

Depends on your gaskets - retorque is usually after the first 500 miles I think. Fel-Pro's do not require a retorque (thus I've never done it), and many that use the OEM gaskets just go an extra 5 lbs on the initial torque to cover it. Should be about 50 lbs final torque (55 if you are not going to retorque), but you need to do it in increments: 10 lbs, 25 lbs, and then 50 lbs. For the sequence.... you'll have to find a picture there's too many and I don't remember their numbers/positions. Oh, and a couple sockets under the bolts for the rocker arm will allow you to torque them with the rest of the bolts and then install the rocker assembly later. That's what the book recommends - it's OK to take those two loose after the torque procedure is done. GD

POST IS 3 YEARS OLD. Jeez people. Caleb - help! GD

Summit racing sells small aluminium radiators.... GD

Originally all the bits came as a "kit" that the dealership would install. I'm sure it was not cheap. The real problem is not really getting the parts, it's getting the *right* parts and figureing out the wireing. Most of the AC systems you will find were factory installed, not dealer - as such they are not quite the same. It's cleaerer if I say it this way - a factory installed system may not directly plug into the harness of a car "equipped for installation" at the dealership. Frankly it would be easiest to find a donor car that's trashed and pull the AC from it. From a junk yard expect to pay probably around $100 depending on the yard for all the parts, and expect to make a couple trips back for stuff you forgot to grab. Also expect a wireing nightmare and get some factory service manuals (ebay is a good shooting range for them), and get real familair with wireing diagrams. I have no idea what that car would be worth where you are.... specs? Is it 4WD? Auto? Color? Condition? 2WD or 4WD makes a HUGE difference in value - sort of like a truck. GD

Plumbed for air? What do you mean? It has everything but the compressor? Generally speaking, all the roos had a "equipped for installation of optional AC" badge in the cabin, but you still need all the wireing, relays, extra radiator fan, compressor and bracket, evaporator, condensor, drier, and all the plumbing bits.... then you must remove the dash to install the condensor.... GD

Look for anything "not so factory" looking - aftermarket stereo and alarm wireing have caused me no end of problems with battery drain and random electrical issues. In my experience, previous owners are worse than years or mileage. GD

Back..... To the Future! GD

Thanks - it was born of neccesity - sender really makes me nervous hanging down there in the mud :-p GD

This was my solution - I added a right angle fitting to it later as the plastic line likes to kink otherwise, but that's just a 1/8" NPT fitting from Home Cheapo. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55186 I also did my lifted wagon, and it's done with braided SS line to the sending unit as it's an off-road toy - same principle tho - metric adaptor to 1/8" NPT to whatever you like - mechanical like my EA82 sedan, or relocated sender (Autometer in the case of my wagon): GD

I whiped up this diagram a while back for my idea on how to fix the shifter slop in a way that will never, ever come loose again. I've tried bolting, cutting a slot in the shifter and bolting, drilling and bolting with a larger bolt, etc, etc. This will be my next attempt if I don't just go to a 5 speed in all my rigs GD

No - it is NOT reverse thread. Get an impact - they are cheap at harbor freight.... GD

Carb, and possibly vacuum leaks. GD

You have to market it to the Datsun crowd. GD

And how certain are you it's the original pump? BTW - Subaru reccomends every 7k miles for oil changes - still does on new ones too. GD

Adjustable SPRING PERCHES - ride hight for you non-tech minded. Also stiffness is mostly a function of springs - the dampening effect is what the shocks give you. So you don't bounce all over the road. You are thinking of air shocks - those do the job of the spring as well, and are adjustable for stiffness. If you get the GR2's your car will sit just like a 2WD - low. And you won't be able to do anything about it. At least if you get the Monroe's or just a cartridge for your existing strut assembly, you'll retain the stock height and adjustability. GD

Yikes - no longer availible huh? Well I'll take a look at my pile, but chances are it's been tossed out - that was a couple years ago now. Hhhhmmm - maybe a bit of plastic hose from the Home Cheapo.... I would take that bushing to the Cheapo and look around - I always love doing that anyway - find the weirdest stuff that way IIRC, I had to wrap the little guy in electrical tape to get a tight fit into the tranny hole. It's still like that, and been many, many miles. GD

If the engine died after losing OP, then it's almost certainly shot. It's a major mechanical issue at least. It could be any number of things - you'll just have to wait and see. I would say 90% chance your shortblock is wasted. Sounds a lot like when I blew a rod in my wagon - looked a lot like junkies picture there - only more bits and peices cause I had two rods blow, and destroyed most of the pistons, as well as a softball sized section of the block. GD

The STD hatch had a 4 speed 2WD tranny. Weirdest thing. Of course those were stock with an EA71, but we often refer to them as the "EA81" by body type. He didn't say what it came from so I'm assuming he doesn't know. Would be hard to tell as the later STD hatch's had the side mount starter and all.... still a 4 speed 2WD though I think (or some were 4 speed, single range 4WD apparently). GD

I get them from Discount Import Parts - It was either $60 or $65 for the OEM pump (Parut brand - same as the dealership part). They always get them for me the next day. They don't have a web site - they have two locations here in Oregon - call em, maybe they will ship: http://portland.citysearch.com/profile/8492110/portland_or/discount_import_parts_inc.html thepartsbin.com lists them for $90 - probably the same part, just inflated price. drivewire.com (same catalog as thepartsbin) has em for $88.52 rockauto.com shows a beck/arnley for $86.79 GD

More precisely, the bushings in the distributor are shot - they can be replaced cheaply. GD