GeneralDisorder

You may have not seen one of these yet miles - but trust me, EA82's did come with Feedback carbs in CA, and possibly other places. I happen to own one, and there are plenty of them in the yards around here. It's a more complex system than the EA81 feedback, and there is at least one sensor - the manifold pressure sensor - that I have been unable to locate a working replacement for. I shudder to think what it would cost from the dealer, and it is definately not repairable... I took one apart and it's a mess inside. Not just electronics, but some sort of viscous gel as well. Very interesting. I did away with the whole mess yesterday actually - put on a Weber. MUCH better power, and no more weird vacuum solenionds and ECS lights. The computer is still turning on the ECS light on me, but that will go away when I pull the computer out. The thing would run alright, but randomely the idle would drop and engine would die. Would have to give it a bit of gas to keep it running. But it would only happen when the ECU decided to change something - probably a flaky sensor - O2's will do that. Who knows tho. And I drive about 200 miles a day. If you need an EA82 feedback ECU - I've got one. It's never going back on my car, so you can have it for free if you like. GD

So you would say that a Hummer H1 isn't very capable then I take it? Have you driven one? Have you broken one off-road? I have. I would say that IRS and IFS are just really starting to come into their own. Solid axles are going away - even some in the rock crawling community are looking to switch over. Portal systems, and the ability to not have low hanging diffs and no high angle drivelines are just a few of the reasons these systems are taking over nearly every type of automotive application. Articulation is not an issue - the VW Baja community has been running 28 - 30" of travel in the rear of bugs for years. And that's with stock components. GD

Sounds like either you have ill-fitting brake pads in the front - I've been sold the wrong ones for EA81's and they click. That sound will usually go away after 50 MPH or soo, and applying the brakes will stop it too of course. Sounds like classis CV failure to me - have to start pulling thins apart to see. GD

Under the drivers kick panel. And yes the carb does sometimes have the ECU if it's a CA model especially. Does your "ECM" light come on? Probably got some bad sensors - I'll just throw out there" coolant temp sensor, and almost certainly the manifold pressure sensor. Hehe GD

3 mains is not a problem - the reason Subaru went to 5 is to support higher power output. Perhaps you have not experienced a properly tuned, well maintained EA series engine. They do run quite smooth. A worn main will definately cause an imbalance - I have worn mains on my Brat and it has a permanent imbalance at idle. GD

He's under the mistaken impression that it will make the engine run smoother using VW fireing order... thing is I've never seen a VW flat four run as smooth as a Subaru flat 4 in stock form. GD

Your brake is stuck on? Well that isn't good - not that subaru brakes are particularly strong, but you'll warp the rotor and wear the pads down to nothing quick. High speed might cause a fire. I've seen it happen on trailers. Might be the cause of the noise if you hit the iron pad backing plate. That usually makes a squeeling sound tho. Does the clicking change with turning, or is it constant? Does it get faster with higher speed? You need to think logically and narrow your repair path based on some simple testing here. We can't guess at what it might be without a little more info. GD

Yeah - top of the column there is a rocker switch - turn it off. Those are your daytime running lights. GD

Yes - a bad Double Offset joint can indeed cause vibration. It's the inner joint of the front axles. Did you have rebuilt axles installed or new ones? Rebuilt units seem to not be of very good quality a lot of times. GD

What do you need more dampening for? GD

You mean the Dual Hitachi setup from the japanese import engines? They are out there. Just keep looking. Dual Weber's? Never heard of it. You would need a custom intake manifold for it. GD

Too wide by a bit. Find an uncracked dash - should be easy since you got them till 92 over there. Don't whine to the poor people of the USA about cracked dashes - we stopped getting Brats in 87 . Wagon or Sedan from 80-84 is the same dash, so get to looking. GD

Well - think of it this way - your engine is a big air pump. It draw air in through the Air filter... this is called the "Intake". Make sense? And it shoots the air out through the "Exhaust". Logical eh? It mixes a little gas with the air to create a small explosion (actually it's just burning very, very fast, but for out purposes here, it's an explosion), and that drives the engine. Thus the need for gas AND air. You follow that? Ok - so the big air pump pulls a lot of air through it - so the intake manifold is just like the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner - if you put your hand up to it you will feel the suction. Same idea here - a little bit of that suction is routed through the hose you fixed, and powers the actuators that move the vent flappers in your dash. Pressing the buttons decides which door gets "sucked" open. The little cannister is a vacuum accumulator. What it does is store some of that suction for later use. Basically without getting too complicated there are times when the engine may not have enough suction to work the flappers, so the white deally stores it up for later use. Hope that helps. GD

Ok - Allow me... The white cannister that you found is correct - the lower of the two hoses must be connected to manifold vacuum. The manifold is.... well a picture is best I suppose: Here is the supply line I'm refering too. This supplies the white "vacuum accumulator" with manifold vacuum and powers the vacuum motors that change the vent selections for you when you press a button: Here is a typical connection to manifold vacuum where you will need to connect that supply line. Your's will look a little different as you have fuel injection, and this picture is from my carburated sedan. Trace the line comming from the bottom of the white vacuum accumulator and find where it is supposed to connect to manifold vacuum. It's usually a "T" fitting supplying a couple differen't things. I bet it has just fallen off. For reference, the bottom of the picture shows the upper radiator hose on the passenger side - and that blurry silver thing in the foreground is the oil fill cap. Post back if you need more help or better pictures. I used my phone, and probably should have just used my camera - the phone isn't great for close ups. GD

Yep GD

Yeah - he's right. Now that I think about it - the crankshaft counterbalance wieghts would have to be redesigned to accomidate the new firing order. It would probably shake so violently it would rip itself apart in no time. GD

My vote is intake manifold gakets - the aftermarket ones suck. Get em from the dealer, and follow the torque specs. Carb base gaskets can blow too - I would do that as well. GD

Tell them you will take not a penny less than $2000. Especially if it was 4WD and in decent shape. Argue that you'll have to replace it's "function", not neccesarily with the exact same car. Personally I wouldn't take any less than $2000 for ANY running car as insurance settlement - there is my personal time and effort and missed work and all that other stuff to consider if someone wrecks my car. Not to mention I have to find another one and take the time and effort to customize it as I like. They won't go for that, and will offer you a low ball figure. Just say: "Well - I have been having a bit of neck and shoulder pain, and I really don't think I should sign anything before I see my doctor anyway..." Seriously - not your fault so they pretty much know they are going to lose. If it goes to court - represent yourself and use the "spirt of the law" argument. Judges love that. DON'T settle for less - you have an obligation to the rest of us to fight them tooth and nail. Insurance rape is so wrong. They are banking on you needing to settle quick in order to get another car. Post in the wanted forum and someone will come up with something for you cheap. Just wait them out. The longer the case goes un-settled the more likely they are to give you what you want. GD

Any EA81/EA71 disty will work from 82+ You have two choices - the Nippon-denso version, and the Hitachi. Most likely you have the Hitachi now. 4WD's got the Hitachi, and 2WD's got the ND. You'll want the same brand of coil to whichever one you get - incorrect coil resistance can lead to ignitor failure. And no Accel coils - they are junk. Could also use a carbbed EA82 disty if you cant find an EA81 version, but you'll have to change out the drive gear. If you have access to a small drill press it's easy. Should be a little easier to find one in the yards. Yards here by me charge $19 + 5 core for them. GD

I fail to see the reasoning behind this. You say your engine doesn't run smooth and you can feel it in the struts??!? Either you are delusional, or your engine probably has a bad main bearing. All the subaru engines I've had that were in decent condtion ran butter smooth when properly tuned (usually with a weber). I've got one in my brat that has a slight bump to it at idle - previous owner neglected to change the oil pump, so now I get to rebuild it. In fact they usually run so smooth there is little indication they are about to throw a rod till around a mile before it happens. GD

Skiing related I would assume: http://www.nastar.com/ http://www.silvermt.com/ http://www.ski49n.com/ GD

I am condsidering either the mile-marker 6000, or possibly going with a hydraulic mile marker. They have a really fast line speed and can run off the power steering system. A come-along is an absolute necessity off-road - and a snatch strap too - both for towing and wincing. Hi-Lift jacks can winch too, but the process is slow like the come-along. Even with a winch the come along is important for holding the vehicle to a specific line while winching. GD

The problem is not the motor, but rather the electrical supply to it. The motors are actually fine, you just need to get cleaner power to them. You can try cleaning the grounds, but I've not had a lot of luck that way. I think it's best to run new power to the main fuse panel. GD

It's a remote recevier unit used for processing commands from the alien invasion fleet - will be best if you cover it with tin foil.... and don't forget your foil headgear while driving. GD

The belt + retractor mechanism is under it tho - same difference. No storage. GD