GeneralDisorder

No - the disty and EGR both have special ports near the bottom of the front of the carb (right above the pinned-off idle mixture screw). They go into the maze of hard lines right now - you will re-route them. And it does matter which ones goes where - but I can't recall at the moment which is which. A little experimentation and you should be able to figure it out tho. GD

EGR is on the back of the manifold - right behind the carb - it's a big 3" metal canistor with a vacuum line running into it. It's gold in color usually. HINT: use NEW soft vacuum line to run to both the EGR, and the disty vac advance - the hard lines used to connect everything are suspect since they run into all the other places that vacuum is supposed to go...... places you are disconnecting. Useing them is just asking for a leak. GD

Sweet - just rip it all out then. Basically, you can plug off the Air injection valves with quarters (US currency - maybe you have somethign that size? hehe). And the rest can go away. All you have to leave on the carb, is fuel inlet and return lines, the bowl vent line, and the vacuum lines for the ERG valve, the vac advance on the disty, and the secondary barrel and or choke pull-off if you have them. Plug EVERYTHING else, and you'll be good. GD

One point that has failed to be mentioned - none of this matters in the slightest unless you actually drive in 4WD on a hard surface. But it does sound like maybe someone tried that...... replacing it with a 3.7 = good idea. GD

Technically known as the purge line. Not sure if that's the one, but it's certainly part of that system. There's a thermo-vacuum valve in there somewhere that won't allow the gasses from the evap can to get out till the engine reaches operating temp, thus all the nasty routing of vac lines, and crap going everywhere. You can figure it all out in your head if you stare at it long enough. Basically, you have three vent lines - on from the gas tank, one from the float bowl, and one from the "vapor seperator" on the front fuel filter. These all go into the evap can, and get trapped there when the car is sitting in a hot parking lot. Once the engine is started, and warmed up, the thermo-vacuum valve(s) open, and let the vapor back into the intake to be burnt..... Basically it's all bullsh!z - just pull out the charcoal canistor too, and get rid of all those silly hard lines that go with it. Leave the gas tank vented to the air, and route the float bowl vent to the air filter houseing. Remove that silly expensive fuel filter with it's fancy vapor seperator and replace it with a $1.49 clear model from the parts counter. And guess what - it won't impact your emmissions test in the slightest. If you do a good job, they will never know you removed anything, and none of this can be detected with a tail-pipe test.... GD

You can safely just plug that sucker. I've got that line plugged on my Brat. It's part of the vacuum system for the evaporative emmissions system. I would just plug the port, and forget about it. The RPM increase is because you are "fixing" your vac leak when you plug it off. GD

Well - I think I figured it out: That's a picture of the primary jet before I removed the miniscule shaving of wood or whatever it was. Seems to run fine for now..... but it's done that before. Hopefully this was the problem, and I've finally got it licked. Tony - looks like you were right on this one. This carb has been through hell and back. I pulled it off an engine that blew a HG, and the carb was full of "milkshake", but it runs really nice. I just had to get it cleaned out completely. GD

Good for you! Welcome to the club. It will look nice next to the rest at WCSS6. No rust..... so this one is a restoration candidate? GD

I used to clean Ford hot wire MAF's with carb cleaner, but talking to Calebz, he said he's never been able to clean a non-vane style MAF on a Subaru. GD

Yes the R160 is the rear diff. I for one have looked at the design of their "LSD", and I think it's crap. That's just my personal opinion. I guess the best term for it is a "friction spool". I suppose it may be better than nothing. Better to take a real LSD unit from something else and have it machined to fit in the front. Especially since the installation requires the dissasembly of the tranny. In the specific case of Subaru's, the front diff is too complicated to get to in the fist place to bother doing anything as lame as the "phantom grip". If your going to do it, do it right. GD

You think that's nuts - my weber runs so good that I started the car in first gear (manual), and it idled into a cabinet before I got it stopped! GD

Fuel pump is fine - both filters are brand new (napa, WIX filters) Yeah - I was thinking the same thing about the bowl vent. In the case of the Hitachi, the bowl vent's to the evap canistor. I was thinking that maybe the bowl vent was being clogged by liquid gas from the "slosh" effect. And one time it was running like this, I disconnected the bowl vent line, shook a little bit of liquid out, and then she started just fine. But when the problem came back a few hours later, the vent line was still disconnected, and I even blew into the line - nothing was blocking it, and it still wouldn't run. The gasket that seperates the halves is new. I compared it to the original (really crappy), and couldn't see any differences that would matter. The gasket is properly aligned - I have had the carb apart three times now, and each time this problem has come back.... Does anyone know if my symptoms could be from a stuck open full-power valve in the float bowl? It's not technically a serviceable part of the carb, but it's only supposed to come on at very low manifold vacuum (like wide open throttle), and if it were stuck open, it would be letting fuel right out the bottom of the float bowl.... I think this would cause a pretty rich condition, and maybe the problems I'm seeing. Anyone have experience with that before? GD

When I rebuilt the carb, I did check the float level, and it needed no adjustment at that time. And since the carb only acts up "sometimes" that leads me to believe the float level to be correct. What I'm trying to say is that the carb will "act up" when I take a hard turn or a fast take-off, but not 100% of the time when I do these things. Only sometimes. Thus the car is driveable, and just when I think I've got the problem licked, it comes back and bites me. Very intermittant, and thus difficult to troubleshoot. If it were the float, I would expect it to act up on every hard turn, or fast take-off, and then return to normal under regular driving..... which this does not. The only thing that will correct the problem is to shut it off, and walk away for a while. GD

Could be either. If it's a Hitachi, then it should be a DCP306-15 Simply look down the carb - if it's a 2 barrel, then it's Hitachi. 1 barrel is Carter/Weber GD

Vapor lock is when a hot engine vaporizes the fuel in the fuel lines going into the carb, and is generally seen on cars with engine mounted mechanical pumps.... I don't think that's likely on a Subaru, and besides that it wouldn't run at any RPM's if that were the case. It will idle, and run over 3k RPM's just fine. Also - one time I waited nearly 3 hours, and when I tried to start it, it still was acting up.... I would think it would have been plenty cool at that point to make vapor lock all but impossible. A good theory, but not the problem in this case I don't think. GD

Ok - I've rebuilt the Hitachi on my Brat - it's a DCP306-26. It runs AWESOME most of the time. Idles right around 700-750 RPM's when warm, and revs right up with no flat spots or anything. However, when I take a sharp turn, or a very fast take off, it will start to run like crap. It will idle, but slower than normal, and when you try to give it more gas, it just dies, it will run over 3000 RPM's or so when it's doing this, but nothing in-between that, and idle (just dies). I suspect it could be a sticking power valve piston. What do you guys think? It will run like this till you shut it off and let it sit anywhere from a few minutes, to a few hours (overnight one time). After you let it sit a while, it will start up as if nothing happened, and drive away just fine. I have checked the float bowl vent - it is functioning normally. I've disconnected most of the vacuum lines that are not needed and plugged them off. I've checked very carefully for vac leaks all around the carb with spray carb cleaner, and since it idles very nice, I'm pretty sure there are none. And no - the answer is not to put on a weber. I want this stupid thing to work. It's a matter of priciple. The Hitachi is not a bad carb, and this is a learning experience for me. I really want to know how to rebuild them properly, since I have a number of the things sitting around here. Free is a very good reason! GD

Like I said - unless your radiator is bad, I wouldn't replace it. Is it full of nasty fuid? corroded beyond use? Plugged up? If not, then replacing it will only band-aid a problem that is elsewhere. Have you bothered to replace the t-stat, radiator cap, and back flush the system? Fill with good clean 25/75 mix, and test it? Out here on the left coast, bad radiators aren't very common. I've got an EA81 car around here somewhere with 325k on it, and it's fine. Make sure the fins are straight, and not all full of dirt too..... GD

For EA81's, you don't need a 2-row radiator. The stock radiator is more than enough, and the single fan is too. Your radiator is probably in need of a good going-over. I've had them gone over before, and with a new t-stat, and NO electric fan at all, I could let it sit and idle in the garage without it overheating at all. GD

The second dash kit pictured will fit an EA81. If you look in the image gallery, there's pics of that one in my 84 wagon.... GD

How's it look on the ends? GD

Yes - I can say with certainty that the 82 bell-housing will accept the 225mm 83+ 4WD clutch. The 200mm flywheel is the same size, just with a 25mm smaller opening for the clutch disc and PP. BTW - you DO NOT want the 200mm clutch with big tires and a lift. I found this out the hard way. It slips VERY bad. The 225mm slips too, but is much better. GD

Depends on which flywheel you have. They could have used either one. You'll have to figure out if you have the EA81 or the EA82 flywheel. In order to fit the EA82 flywheel, the bell-housing must be ground slightly. You should be able to tell. You need to use the EA81 flywheel with the 4 speed, but you can use either one with the 5 speed. You might be able to use either one with the 4 speed, but I'm not sure on that. I've not heard of anyone putting the EA82 flywheel and clutch on the EA81 engine and tranny. GD

The RX tranny has a 1.2:1 low range.... and depending on if it has a diff lock or not, could be a Full-Time 4WD tranny... in which case it has a center diff package, and probably will be a bit different inside compared to the wagon tranny. The wagon tranny should be like 1.56:1 low range already - or something along those lines. You'll just have to rip into them to see what is interchangeable and what isn't..... GD

A lot of EA82T's, and even some EA81T's came with CC. I have an 85 wagon right now with CC. Works great I might add. GD

You mean 3rd gen right? 2nd gen would be EA81 cars, and Brat's... GD