GeneralDisorder

Sorry - I'll clean it out! I'll PM you too. GD

Really? I thought the 2WD's had the meet that 5 MPH test - and thus the stronger steel bumper and shock mountings.... huh - learn something every day. GD

Not so fast...... is the hatch 2WD or 4WD? 4WD will work, 2WD generally will not due to the larger bumper. GD

For $500 I'll pull the one from my wagon..... works absolutely perfect in all respects. I have a suspicion that it may have been replaced early in the cars life with a new one that doesn't have the defects of the original since the alternator in the car is also not original...... has ~150k miles on it. Lotsa luck to ya finding one of these that works perfect. Most have some small issue, or don't work at all. I'm only asking so much because I would have to put something else in my wagon, and that would be a pain. Not to mention these go for $300 or more anyway. But if you really want it for say a restoration project or something I'll do it because mine is just an off-roader and will get beat to hell if I leave it in there. AGAIN - this one is PERFECT. GD

If the valves are ticking - they are not properly inflated. Basically means that your valves won't open quite as far, and your engine will lose a bit of power, but should not cause any damage. Replaceing the oil pump, or even just resealing it can make this go away many times. If that doesn't do it, then it's a matter of removing and cleaning all the lifters..... not an easy job at all. GD

12 volts is also proper spec for automotive. It's actually a voltage *range* anyway. Devices are designed to operate from 12 to 14 volts or thereabouts. When the alternator isn't running, a well charged battery will usually generate anywhere from 12.5 to 13 volts. With the alt running it's up around 13.8 to 14.5 or so in my experience. GD

When I do this at the JY I put a big crowbar on the wheel studs, and then a breaker bar on the axle nut. I line them up so the crowbar and the breaker bar are only slightly offset from one another. Then I use a third bar or pipe to lever the other two bars apart. Usually works pretty good for me. Sometimes there's a lot of grunting and cussing involved, but no nut has beaten me yet. Sometimes I can rest the crowbar against the ground or the wheel well to hold it while I simply muscle the axle nut off. There are probably easier ways, but I'm big and pretty strong, so I usually get my way in arguments of this nature with just brute force. I have broken lots of ratchets, broken breaker bars, and bent many a pipe getting axle nuts off - some of them can be real buggers. GD

Rebuild kits are availible from NAPA ~$25. Beware of the hitachi tho - many people have trouble rebuilding these carbs - others say they aren't that bad. I'm guessing there must be a couple tricks of the trade - wish I knew em. You can get a Weber in need of a rebuild for about $50 or less on ebay - rebuilt and jet kit for another $50, and the adaptor is about $35 - $40 - so it's not as expensive as all that really. GD

It can be used one way or another - either with an EA82 flywheel or an XT6 flywheel. Qman has one in his Brat. GD

2WD rear subaru wheel bearings are really easy. At least on EA81 cars they are - I assume your XT is probably similar. No pressing involved. GD

You can use either flywheel - you just have to use the proper PP that goes with it. You need the clutch disc that has the right spline count for the tranny. It's prefereable to use the EA82 flywheel and PP because this allows use of the EA82T or even the XT6 PP which is stronger. GD

Change all your fuel filters if you haven't already. Change your plugs too if you suspect them - very cheap. If that doesn't do it - time for a Weber. GD

The EA81T is MPFI - can't use the Weber on it. With a Weber and no other mods, your not looking at much HP gain at all - under 10 if that..... MUCH more low end torque, but the high end doesn't change really. The EA81 stock is 73 HP - the EA81T is 95 but lacks the low end. Again - try out the search function as these topics have been covered in great detail many many times. GD

You should use the search function - it will answer ALL your questions. EA82T trannies have 25 splines - regular are 23. GD

No GD

Can be drilled - but will chew up at least one bit in the process - use a lot of oil. That spring steel is tough. GD

There is no H20 line to the weber if you have removed the aqua choke. GD

You'll just havet to experiment - the dash speakers are not of a size that can be obtained aftermarket. Pull them out and look for something that you can "make" work - you'll just have to figure it out like we all have done..... GD

Some of these can be buggers - I've busted 1/2" breaker bars like twigs - don't even think about a ratchet.... GD

It's even the servicable type - nice. GD

What's so bad about the design? I head someone say the cracks between the valves can be closed up with a punch.... besides that they don't even matter unless they are VERY large..... so says subaru anyway. I know I've heard several people on the board use heads with cracks between the valves with no ill effect. I think that it's as stated above that the cracks that really matter cannot be seen. That or is the gasket that blows. GD

Sounds like your cable is about to fail - had that happen to me. First it got a little loose and I tightened it - then it broke in half. Is your cable running over or under the steering linkage - it's supposed to run under. Over will cause premature wear and failure. GD

If your rings are shot - or your bottem end is sloppy, then it's a good idea. Basically if you have to split the engine case and it has more than 150k on it, or has been neglected and is more worn than normal, then you might as well do a complete rebuild. That's not to say you just blindly replace everything - there's lots of measurements involved with micrometers and calipers and run-out guages etc. You replace what is not within spec, and then put it back together - usually with a new oil pump, and water pump cause it would suck to have either one of those ruin all the work you just did. GD

Sure - but you have to figure the cost of the manifold - the 32/36 bolts to our existing manifolds..... making it a much cheaper option since they come with the adaptor plate (if you buy the kit). It's also a well documented upgrade, and time is money. GD

Pardon me - got my terminology mixed up. I stand corrected then. I also say if your going for hard core off-road - Welding is the cheapest, and most surefire way of getting your traction. Some people run the LSD's - others say they aren't as good. But everyone agrees that welding works off-road. That's where my money is. GD