GeneralDisorder

What you need: Drill Drill bit (proper size) Hammer Some subaru lugs from the JY Pretty simple really - take it apart, and you will see what I mean. Sometimes you just need to get your hands dirty - this is one of those times. GD

You need the whole clutch package too - and the pedal assembly, as well as the interior boots / console's and all the proper shift linkage. Also - I'm not sure on the EA82's but you may need a different tranny cross-member as well. Axles may be different if either of the tranny's was from a turbo, and the other wasn't. GD

HEHEHE - he said "muffler bearing" haha You rock skeet! GD

But the cehvy rims do bolt on when I'm done with em - I don't see your point. GD

Here's a pic of Qman's brat: http://usmb.net/gallery/albun40/Qmanandbuggy He drilled his hubs and added two studs, and moved two studs in order to make Subaru 6 lug hubs. You just knock two stud out, and drill some holes, and knock 4 studs into the hubs in the right place (use the rim as a pattern), and your done. Easy. GD

WHOA! GL's did not have the D/R standard - many were auto FWD's, manual FWD's and Auto pushbutton 4WD's too. GD

Problem with the Pugs is they are too narrow. The chevy rims (like McBrat's) can be had for $25 each BRAND NEW from shwab. Drilling them out is easy, and they have a nice wide offset that will make the tires stick out about 3 inches from the fender. So for the same price as Pugs, you get all the benifits of the pug, brand new rims, white with a similar pattern to the old wagon wheel, easy replaceability if you should bend one, and compatibility with the original subaru rims if you should need to use one (assuming you drill the rims not the hubs). So unless you are looking for alloys (need special lug nuts), I think the pugs are a pretty silly choice. (Oh and if you can't run your tires outside the fenders, that's no excuse either, as stock Toyota rims have a zero offset too, and work the same as the chevy rims [may have to drill the hubs instead tho] - Qman's Brat has a nice set on it). And if you drill the hubs then you should be able to use Toyota or Chevy alloys too. GD

5w30? good god man - TAKE IT OUT! Too thin. Especially with the MMO in it. Use 20w50 Castrol GTX - it seems to flow better than the other brands of 20w50. The heavier oil will help your oil pressure, and the MMO will thin it down to be just right. I run 20w50 in my engines all the time - winter too - I also use Rislone every other oil change or so in place of a quart. I use MMO to clean the engine, but I don't leave it in there for very long. GD

Yep - that's almost certainly a ball joint. Jack up each side, and remove the wheel. Insert a large prybar or screwdriver between the lower control arm and the hub. If you can move it at all, then the ball joint is shot. You can also look at the ball joint dust boot while the car is still on the ground. If it's torn, then the joint is likely bad, or going to be soon. One thing I have found, if you don't have a puller, and you find a good ball joint at the JY, then just take the whole lower control arm. It's easy enough to remove, and the hub end of the ball joint will come out easy if you remove the pinch bolt, and pry a little. I find a lot of good ball joints at the JY - if the boots stay intact, they last a long time it seems. All the bad ones I've come across had torn boots.... GD

He's a retard - the lift does NOTHING to your suspension, as you are simply lifting the body off the suspension and drivetrain wholesale. Everything suspension and drivetrain wise is left bone stock. The only thing it will do make the camber slightly negative. This will only result in tires wearing faster, and only if you use stock tires - if you put big off-road tires on, it will do basically nothing to them, since most of them are pretty tough. Remember - you are doing a body lift so you can put bigger tires on, nothing more. GD

Offer to buy the "broken" parts off him cheap. Tell him you have a friend at a school auto shop that wants them for "research" hehehe. Make money of his stupidity. GD

They are body lifts

Sounds like you were indeed in 4 lo the whole time - at least by looking at your RPM data you were... The owners manuals say to *never* go over 40 MPH in 4 lo, so I hope you didn't hurt anything. If you didn't go over 55, then you are probably fine. I have heard of people blowing tranny's by doing 75 in 4 lo tho, so it is possible. GD

You sure it isn't the rear drums in need of adjustment? It can be hard to tell where the sound is comming from sometimes. Especially when it only does it when cold. I had the exact same sounds comming from my wagon last year - only when cold, first few stops. I did brand new pads in the front, and it didn't stop! Turned out the rear drums had some pretty nasty old shoes in them, and had been out of adjustment for a long time. I did the front cause the pads were also very worn, and I just assumed that was the cause of the noise. GD

Yes - I second the trans. You will have to pull off the clutch package and the flywheel to get to the main, so unless the clutch is new, this would be a good time to replace it. At any rate, you will need the clutch alignment tool to put it back together. You can use a big socket, or a peice of pipe to tap the new seal into place. Or sometimes I just work my way around it with small taps from the hammer if I don't have anything that size. Just make sure it isn't crooked when you are done. GD

Best way to do the clutch is to pull the tranny in my opinion. The rear drive shaft is just a few bolts on the diff end, and the axles come off the tranny easy if you remove the lower control arm bolt. The sway bar has to come out anyway, so when those two are done, you have plenty of room to pull the axles off the tranny. Disconnect the shift linkage, and the cross-member, and unbolt it from the engine, and it will drop right out. I've done this a number of times with just jack stands in my driveway. I could easily do this in a day with a friends help to put the tranny back in (harder cause you need to get it up instead of down.... damn gravity). GD

You might have to do some fiddling with the motor mounts, but assuming you could find a bell housing, and it worked, there's no reason it wouldn't drive. The carter / weber single bbl will not fit the EA63 intake, and even if it did, it's not jetted correctly for a 1.4L engine, so would run way rich, and really crappy. You'll have to find or rebuild the EA63's carb I'm afraid, as nothing newer will do the job. There's not even an adapter plate to fit the weber 32/36 on your engine, so unless you make one..... I say find a used EA81 and drop it in. Or fix the rod bearings on the one you have. Shouldn't be too hard. If it tests alright for compression, pull it out, and put some new bearings in. GD

You should ask Ken what hood scoop he used on his Brat. If I were you, I would remove that spacer, and slap on the short filter. Or you could lift it, and use the big filter. Maybe get another hood if you are going to do major cut-and-paste to it. GD

Yes - you should use the high-temp red RTV if you use it, and never use too much RTV, just makes a hell of a mess. If you use the right amount, you shouldn't get any inside the tranny. GD

I do 4k-5k launches all the time in my Brat (in 4 hi) - you should be fine in the RX. It was really built for it. The most you will do is wear out the clutch. GD

The Tranny can be removed from under the car with it on jack stands. It's really not all that hard. I wouldn't sugest trying to pull the tranny out from above. I've tried that, with no engine present, and it just didn't work, snagged on too many things, and those Subaru trannies aint small. Best to remove engine first, then drop the tranny out from the bottom. It's really easy with a jack and a block of wood. GD

You probably need a new EGR vavle (or maybe just clean it), and there should be an anti-backfire valve near the firewall on the drivers side. There's a big tube going to it from the EGR..... either of these parts will cause backfireing on decel. I've never heard of the AIS system causeing this, and I wouldn't think it would - why would adding a little more air to your exhaust cause backfireing? I need a more technical explanation of that one. Backfireing is usually the explosion of unburnt fuels in the exhaust..... I suppose the added oxygen from the AIS might help that along, but I'm not sure. GD

It's not a small job even on the old ones - believe me, as I'm one of the few people who has done it. I can imagine the newer ones would be worse, and probably much more expensive to do. I did it on my 84 cause it would have been VERY hard to find another car as nice as mine, and the parts to do it can be had pretty cheap. But even on the older stuff it's still more cost effective and time effective to just find a 4WD model. So unless there is something special about the 2WD that makes it worth it, or you happen to have a 2WD AND a wrecked 4WD, or something along those lines...... GD

What is AVS? Do you mean AIS? The Air Injection System? If you block this off, you might still pass, but your cat will not be doing it's job as well as it should. Depending on your mileage tho, your cat may not be doing anything anyway, and you might still pass. Hard to tell - try it and see. If you fail, it costs you nothing. GD

Yeah - use a bunch of RTV silicone. Great stuff. And of course check those sealing surfaces. GD