Sweet82

My Forester drives me NUTS! I'm constantly trying to quiet down the back end. Here is what I have found. Upper side plastic trim on the hatch squeeks--rubber insert, foam weather seal would not stay quiet. Hatch bottom trim squeeks--shimed it with thin cardboard between metal & plastic. Black switch on both sides of hatch frame knock/rattle.--jamed switch in closed position. Rear seats knock/rattle--I leave them down when not in use. This Forester is the noisiest vehicle I've owned yet!

I think WHITE with MUD splashes is the only way to go! Looks good as is! The only way to improve it is to get it Dirty:brow: White, Glenn

Can you make the top spinner flash RED & BLUE?

Rust, rust and more rust! If your going to swap engines rust is your only major concern. Rather than list the spots that are a problem, I'd suggest lifting it up or crawling under and looking at any/all rust spots. I had 8" holes in my floor boards. Rocker panels were rotten. At the base of the front fenders rust collects. Rust along the frame rails could be a problem depending on the rust. I'd look at every inch of the underbody and make your assesment. Don't buy a Utah car! Good Luck Glenn

Qman has a rear solid axle on his Brat. Subie up front though!

A Brat would be hard to shave weight off. Doors are your biggest weight that's easily shed. (and put back on) A tailgate could be replaced by a net. Glass weighs. A hood weighs. A lot of what you can get rid of depends on what you want to use the vehicle for? Strictly off-road? Still street legal? These decisions will limit what you can do. I removed my doors, hatch, side glass and hood and I was amazed at how much weight those things added! (This is still Street legal in Ut.) Good luck Glenn

I've had two salvage title vehicles. Still have one of them. My experience tells me you get what you pay for. Both salvaged cars i've had, have "personalities". A salvaged vehicle will always have quirks! The question is did you get a good enough deal to make it worth while to put up with the quirks? My mind tells me you have to get a super discount to make it worth while. Like 60 to 70% of book value. Good Luck, Glenn 88 Trooper--restored/rebuilt, quirky and still going!

Great Pics, "You can't do this with them. . ." Not sure about that? I don't see any pictures that are over 20 mph? Nothin in those pictures I couldn't do and I'd have incredible traction while doing it!

:slobber:Lookin Good!

I believe I paid $56 each for my 6 ply Dirt Devil XT's. But I was able to pick them up locally. Looks like they went up a little since then. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/typeDetail.do?navTitle=Tires+and+Wheels&webCatId=8&pageLinkUri=&vehicleType=&page=2&webTypeId=138&navType=type

It makes all the difference in the world off-road! With out it, once you life a wheel, your screwed! All forward motion stops, one front wheel and one rear will spin and you won't move. You will have two wheel drive once you lift a tire. Welded your guranteed at least 3 wheel drive. You can lift your rear wheel 2ft in the air and still not loose traction. Subaru's are nose heave so you will most likely lift a rear anyway. My axles are more exposed than most but I can pull an axle in less than 60 seconds! 55 of those seconds are spent pounding the pin out. Weld it! Keep an axle out till your going wheeling. Install the axle then drive to your favorite wheeling spot. Don't look back! My .02 Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 84 GL Mad Max 01 Forester

I was wondering just how long it would take before I would pop up in this thread. I had been quietly monitoring it and just seeing what people have to say. Having run them for just under 3 years now I have seen many pros and cons to running ATV tires. Lemme share my thoughts on the subject. Cons; They ride like hell! They are an off-road tire. I don't run them over 20 mph. They won't fit inside your wheel wells. You'd need the most plys available at least 6. Your over stepping the tires recommended weight limit. You'd have to run a lift to use them as they will NOT clear the fenders. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=7435&cat=500&ppuser=584 Pros; They look cool as! They are the most aggressive type of tire. Nothing even comes close. I've never spun a wheel and consequently I've never been stuck. Yet:rolleyes: The come in a size that will allow you to keep what little gearing you have. The Auzzies have been running them for years on off-road Subies. I've played with tire pressure and never had one peal off or break a bead. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=434&cat=500&ppuser=584 There are many tires choices for Subies. What works for you in your area is probably best answered by you? You can get all the opinions you want but in the end it's all your opinion that matters. In Utah our trails are steep! Gears are critical. Clearance can be dealt with but it's hard to find a substitute for gearing. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5190&cat=500&ppuser=584 I kept my tires at 26" for a reason and I still can't climb as steep as I could with my 13". Like I could climb that anyway...

Ok it was cold and rainy in Salt Lake this weekend so what does one do? Make a semi-scale model of the SubaruHummer of course! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12915&cat=500&ppuser=584 It's in it's very early stages. I'll probably end up using the existing tubing as a prototype for the real body. I'm not sure exactly what to make it out of? Brass tubing just kinked! Aluminum rod works great but connecting/welding/brazing is a bit of a problem for me? Steel--weight? Since I have the plans for the full size version, I can make it exactly to scale and the platform has unlimited power so weight is not that big of a concern but still, a full steel body would weigh and be a little top heavy on steep angles. Other modifications in the works are; Rear steering--order the front end parts bolt on the back! Dual speed controllers--one ESC for the front wheels one for the rear. Any thoughts, suggestions, insults... Ya, I know I had too much time on my hands last weekend! Glenn, 82 SubaruHummer--now a mini version! 84 GL Mad Max 01 Forester

Does anyone know how many remotes can be programed into a system? I have two programed in my 01 Forester and I want to program two more. I was wondering if there is a limit? Anyone know before I start wasting my time programing? Thanks, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer--no locks or doors 84 GL Mad Max--key is kept in ignition 2001 Forester--factory keyless & alarm

It should just be a plug in module. Unplug and remove. The question is Where is it?

Hatchy, You need to post those in the Photo section for all to see! You don't even have a gallery!

Cough....Buggy!....cough! Simply install a new body without rust:D Why look here's one...and no rust! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8707&cat=500&ppuser=584 I'm into my buggy $1,600 as it stands. Cough....hey, what do you know, some links appeared! http://www.risingsuncarservice.com.au/ http://www.rhinobuggies.com.au/products.htm ...a great way to keep your Subie around forever?

They have been around for a bit. http://foto.auto.vl.ru/1889/ Here is a 2001 Forester STi.

I marked all my bolt & nuts with fingernail polish when I built the buggy. I check them on a regular basis. So far no movement:dead:. Good advice on these old cars!

Sure is pretty back there! Not terribly steep, but pretty.

That's why my old Subie became a buggy!

I love storys with happy endings:rolleyes:

I prefer these... http://www.rhinobuggies.com.au/products.htm I think I'm a little biased:rolleyes: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=6&ppuser=584 One thing's for sure, Subaru's make great buggies! Get that sawzall fired up! Good Luck, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 84 GL Mad Max 01 Forester

Is there a link to step-by-step instructions for CV/CV Boot replacement on a Forester around anywhere? I've done searches but it seems as though there are some different opinions on ways to do it and no real step-by-step instructions? I'm wondering is there a better/best way to replace the Boot or the joint? I'm looking for idiot proof step-by-step instructions on what to unbolt or not unbolt to make the job easy and painless. Thanks, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer--rear CV change in 30 seconds or less! 84 GL Mad Max--been missing boots for years! (we don't need no stinking boots) 01 Forester--freshly split boots at 60K?

With this weight loss plan, what is the end result? Strictly off-road? If your just going off road you can shed many pounds by pitching your rear hatch? Side doors weigh a ton! Times that by 4! A hood is a fairly heavy piece of equipment??? As I was stripping my hatch to make the buggy, I was amazed at how much those things weighed---and how light my car was without them. The car ran noticeably better without all the cosmetic stuff like doors, the hood etc... I talked with a cop, who said it was actually legal to drive like that. Much like the Broncos or Jeeps do. Just a thought? Glenn, 82 SubaruHummer--diet plate! 84 GL Mad Max--Rust has contributed significantly to it's weight loss:eek: 01 Forester--weighs in at #3200