SnatchedHatch

Once again, I got more than I bargained for! Thanks for all the great advice, I need to check the FSM to see if getting at the plugs will be simple or not. Haven't worked on a boxer before :/ Any advice in short, I've heard some engines can be a pain.

Cool, I guess I'll go the simple route. Getting a section of pipe in would be really cheap as opposed to experimenting with that chamber. Here's a few extra pics of my car now:

I have to get an emissions test in my area, and I just passed mine. Fast forward a few months and my center cat is rattling like crazy. Sounds bad and I assume it's toast, needs replacement for my next test. I'm cool with putting it off for a while, especially if it means I can do something about my way to civil muffler. At this point, I'm not shelling out to replace the econo can with a cherry bomb, I had to get a muffler and I'm not fixing what's not broke at this point. I thought, my guy could cut out the cat and weld some pipe in place, or better yet: I have heard of chamber(s) being used in aftermarket exhaust setups to "boost" the sound. Is this feasable in an 87' GL hatchback setup? Would I have some kind of backflow issues? It's just some something I cooked up when I had too much time on my hands haha

I haven't posted in awhile. My 87' GL had some surface rust in the back from a rear ending. Also the rear window latches were gone and the bailing wire was not cutting it. 1.) I took off the window/rubber seal on both sides, the tailights and bumper (an plate). 2.) Next used a mix of an angle grinder with a wire brush and some paint stripper til I was satisfied I had removed as much rust as possible. Worked well! 3.A) Primed, painted. Duplicolor was way off, so I didn't buy more and just used a completely different color so as to finish the job and prevent rust. 4.A) I used some roofing chauling to seal the windows. XO bad idea. ----I decided I'd hunt down some better paint and redo it at some later time. This was near the end of fall. So I found some Honda paint and glitter clear coat that gets really close to the stock paint, and I've been stocking up on it. What with the miscolored stripes and patches, and a streak of "warm" weather, I stopped procrastinating and took apart the back end again. Mind you, this was just before the midwest got slammed with the snow, and later, artic temps, we had a few "warm" days right beforehand. codswalloping perfect timing, thanks to that the paint doesn't look as great, because.. well, half the time it was freezing instead of drying. I taped up the car and painted on section right on NY Eve. ...after a wicked hangover, I continued on the day after the next. That was when the cold was setting in, had no choice but to pick up the pace. 3. So anyways, I did the whole back end, and went for a better look as I hated the patches of paint from before. I'll post pics of that later. 4. Also, used Gorilla tape and a razor to reseal the back windows, that worked like a charm. Forgot to mention, since fall I've: 5.) Done some maintenance: replaced some caps around the car, the gas cap included. I drove around in that gasoline chamber for so long before I realized it was just an old gas cap seal... XO, smell's 100% gone now. replaced the driver's CV shaft, and got a seat cover and warmer , packed and taped up the rear CV joints as the boots are cracked (and I've heard about the headaches involved with replacing those), 6.) Also, got my steelies blasted and painted and slapped on a new set of winters literally just in time for our first snow). Found a set of white subaru grid hub caps, cleaned the years of brake dust off of those and slapepd them on. 7.) Replaced my barnyard special of a radio antannae (literally a rusty steel rod, wtf man.. oh well looks liek the last guy had a budget lol) with an OEM Corolla one, WOW I can hear twice the amount of stations now. 8.) WD-40ed (bumpers) and Armoralled all the grey trim, so that it's HEY black now. I'll post pics of what I can. Plans for the future: I want to install a Weber (the carb! although a hatchback tailgate special... hmm) Brake fluid flush, coolant flush. Recently, thankfully after I passed my emissions test (with flying colors, I'm impressed), my center Catylytic converter started rattling really bad. I'm good for one year on the emissions test, so to put off buying a cat, I though I could cut it out and connect the piping. ...or better yet, a cheap expansion/magnification chamber. Whatever it's called, a chamber to boost my boxer's song. I had to get a muffler when I bought the car, and did it so quick I never considered a cherry bomb. At this point it wouldn't make sense to switch, but this could make a world of a difference. Anybody know if this is doable? Would I have backflow issues? I'm going to make a post on this but any help here would be appreciated.

...I have found different CV shafts, one was listed as shorter than what I have now. The others don't have any lengths or specifications listed, just pictures. They do have the smaller "heads" (right before the spindle) which would technically fit, but ???? as to the length. Does anyone have any experience in ordering GL HATCH front/driver CV shafts? I'm about to hunt down and pester all the Hatch users haha

UPDATE: I returned the 27-1/4" CV shaft and received the last option from my particular local parts store. It is a CV-shaft with a compressed length of 25-3/4", that's a whopping 1.5" shorter when I was short about half an inch on the last part. So it fit alright, but it's stretched out, it's definitely too short and about a good inch too short for a sturdy set-up. My hatch is driving now though, with none of the original part's horrible rattling. When it's cold though, it will make a subtle rattle here and there, I know this part will wear out prematurely so I need to find the correct part! I'll try Rock-auto, and search under a different year/model.

I have an original Subaru cv shaft I pulled from the junkyard, but decided not to use it as the cost of new boots (they both had cracks from age) was as much as a new CV shaft from autozone. This part was 27-1/4" compressed , albeit varying by a few mm's compared to the last part I had from Autozone, which was listed/measured out to be 27-1/4" It has two bands on the mid steel shaft!! I take it the EMPI shaft from Rock was also this type (also 27-1/4"). I have the ea81 so I'll give this shortie a shot today. I really hope it cuts it as it has a lifetime warranty. Thanks man, I can't stress how helpful this forum is! If all works out, I'll post an update

Hmm, I understand completely. I knew I would be getting inappropriate parts coming up even after selecting my year, make, and model, AND vin specific engine. 2BL carb 1.8L. Sadly, I bet the same parts come up. I have read on this forum that the EA81, EA82, and turbo shafts all have different markers (1 band, 2 ba.. 3 band), is this true? Thanks for the advice nonetheless! I'll post once I solve this issue

I'm back! I've been working on a my "new" hatch and have run into a problem with replacing my driver's side front cv shaft. Mine was TOAST, no wonder it was making that horrible chattering sound. I ordered a new production oem style shaft from Autozone, and hoped that what would come up would be the right length. Nope, later I found out it was a 27 and 5/16" (compressed) long shaft. Not only was it too long, but the metal "head" right behind the wheel/hub side spindle was too fat to fit the suspension assembly. ~~~ 27-5/16" new oem style shaft too long and too wide on the spindle "head" Next one ordered, 27 and 1/4" this one looked like the one I pulled off the Soob (same aftermarket style head). The "head" wasn't as fat either, but again, it was about half an inch too long for the lower ball-joint to fit into it's bracket. -Something I noticed was that if I mated the engine side of the shaft and slid it as far in as it would go (preventing me from pinning it in place), it still need < half an inch to properly fit the ball joint. ~~~27-1/4" new oem style shaft still about half an inch too long to fit the suspension assembly properly. I've orderd my last option from Autozone (and they dropped the price for me thankfully), and the system checks it in as having a 25-3/4" compressed length. I've got the part already and I fear this one will be too short. ~~~Going to try a 25-3/4" cv shaft today, fear it's too short even if it bolts on. On the forum, someone pointed me toward Rock-auto for the "shorter" EMPI cv shaft listed for my car. That one has a 27-1/4" compressed length, I'm guessing the shoddy build of the New OEM style 27-1/4" shaft is to blame? What's the compressed length for the GL hatch front (driver's side) CV shaft? Has anyone ever experienced this same issue before? Thanks in advance!

Those seats!! Haha I wish my hatch came with them, so jealous.

Thank you for this ^^, I was cautious at doing it. Jacked it up slowly and it didn't creak. Let it down right after. As someone new to these cars, it's kinda cool to know I have that sturdy of a plate underneath the engine.

My search for a winter beater led me to a surprisingly awesome find! This beats all the other cars I checked out tenfold, and now I can park it next to my other "hatch"! They said she came from the Mojave! It's a shame the rear end was crumpled, being in the MidWest for about 4 years has really taken it's toll. I don't know the history of the car that well besides the fact that the title and various retrofitted panels tell me it was rebuilt. They did a good job though! The worst is that the body is deformed in such a slight way that the rear vent windows do not properly seal. I'm going to have to get some black silicone caulking :S This forum is really proving to be a handy resource. Glad to be here, I'm surprised at the level of support compared to my last auto forum. Just a bunch of dbags showing off their ricers, HA we'll show them. Check out my undercarriage guys!! (and gals, that's new too) Thanks to everyone who has helped me thus far. FYI I found 3 sets of 4x140 Subaru rims in my area. hehe after I have my pick, I'll post the location! (ok ok, Kankakee, IL)

My 87' Hatch has just over 97,000miles! Not badd, from a dry state so the engine runs well and the body is in pretty good shape!

My cluster only has a speedometer and the subaru car HUD (4wd, parking brake, etc). I kind of wish I had a tachometer. If anyone had a spare cluster like this, I'm willing to buy it. Anyone know if it's plug and play? Would it be easier to buy an aftermarket tach gauge to stick somewhere on the dash? Thanks

Wow, thanks!! This forum is nothing like b15, I'm really getting things going here. Just fixed my sagging bumper, and epoxied a broken bracket for a turn signal bulb. Nice start, scrubbing my rims tomorrow.

Thanks! I have done work on my car before, but never had the chance to DIY something a bit more involving than maintenance, fat matting my trunk etc. This will be a great opportunity to do so. I'm looking to do a few things to my subaru in the next two weeks, but I wanted to know how serious is the CV halfshaft problem? What could happen down the road? (pun ha) I'm looking into getting the carb, if it makes it run smoother than I'm game. Overall these fixes don't brake the bank at all, thanks for the info! For now, I have to pop those rims off and take a look at the brakes. Before I post a thread, anyone know if it's an easy mod to replace the rear drum brakes with disc brakes? Any links for a free FSM copy?

New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/