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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Allow me to be uninformed, but i am assuming this uses the usual waste spark system. if so I would think that there is an RPM outpup from the ECU. the waste spark fires 2 plugs at one time. I would think the source either comes off the ignitor, but more likely the ECU reading the crank position sensor since that is used for timing spark. Just a guess as I am not familiar with the engine. What is this transplanted into?
  2. 150K if the head gaskets go, they go. For the 1000th time at that age ANY car can (and has) blown headgaskets. Now look out for torquebind. All tires must match and be equally worn. Take the car out for a test drive and make a tight u-turn. The car should be able to idle through the turn (or a wee bit of throttle) without jerking or the steering wheel fighting you. There may be an initial bump or jerk, but that is the computer figuring out what is going on. Watch for the ATF light flashing on start-up. This indicates an electrical fault. Shut the car off and restart it as the light indicates a failure on the last operation of the car. CEL should light shut off after startup. At that mileage it may need struts.
  3. It may be coming on even when the air is dry and very very very cold to lubricate itself, this is common to a lot of AC systems. Otherwise it does come on with the defrost.
  4. Double tripple quadrupple check. Many people swear oin a stack of bibles that they got the timing right, just to be off a tooth. If the car ran fine before you touched it, and doesnt after you did touch it, the problem is what you touched.
  5. Bubbles are because it is overfilled, change the fluid and fill it to the proper level. Foresters do have weak rear wheel bearings.
  6. The pan is just a resivoir, not under pressure. They only way ic can spit up fluid is if it is overfilled. Does the fluid foam or is bubbly when it pushes out? If it does it is overfilled. Check which fill you are using like stated above.
  7. The second is a siphon. It does nothing mechanically. Two things. Shift the car manually and see if that helps. Clamp the return line on the pressure regulator and see if that helps. Knock sensor is easy, no need to take anything apart you can get to it.
  8. You did not say you checked it the first time. You also need to know the voltage drop at that cold start in the morning. How old is the battery. See if you can borrow and old silver load tester, as they are the best. Test the battery cold first thing in the morning. If that all pases we will go from there. Post the results.
  9. You need the tranny code too, as this can be many things. What is common to the ECU and TCU is the MAP sensor, RPM, and I think the speed sensor.
  10. I would check the alt output at 1800 RPM with EVERYTHING on. The light comes on if the voltage is low, which is what I suspect may be the issue here. nipper
  11. Ebay has Lego racks for 100.00 with shipping charges. Blu needs a rack as it leaks and feels like mud on a cold morning. My shop said it is almost 3 hrs to replace book time, but they charge actual time, whichever is less. So in reality how much time does it take. Winter is here so I can not do it myself and I do not know if it will last the winter.
  12. you can buy the pins if they are scored. A little force is needed cometimes using a c clamp of a prybar of some kind. Use your imagination to get it out. Clean them with very fine sand paper or steel wool. I actuallu use a dremle tool. You need to clean the parts thet the pin slides in and out of too. When you think you have them clean clean them some more. Use brake grease.
  13. Dash lights - You let the magic smoke out of the light controller. This controls the dash lights. It looks like a relay on the drivers side kick panel. Why didn't you/they use a wiring adapter, it avoids this. That is not a cheap little black box. Find it here or in a scrap yard. You need to rent a code reader, other wise we are just guessing blindly. nipper
  14. Check to see if there is power getting to the switch. I think this has a blower relay, I am not sure.
  15. Lets Review If it gets louder with speed it may be the diff. Rotate the tires one by one and use a stethascope(find a spot maybe the swing-arm or the rear of the bearing ub) and listen rear bearings can make noise and still feel "tight".
  16. WOWZERS! Alternator, Alternator Impreza List Price : $691.04 Your Price : $580.48 Quantity: Alternator, Bearings FRONT, Impreza List Price : $23.60 Your Price : $16.99 Quantity: Alternator, Bearings REAR, Impreza List Price : $38.92 Your Price : $28.02 Quantity: Alternator, Brushes Impreza List Price : $4.82 Your Price : $3.47 Quantity: Alternator, Rectifier Impreza List Price : $148.22 Your Price : $106.72 Quantity: Alternator, Rotor Impreza List Price : $302.92 Your Price : $218.10 Quantity: Alternator, Stator Impreza List Price : $207.58 Your Price : $149.46 Quantity: Alternator, Voltage regulator Impreza List Price : $198.65 Your Price : $143.03 I will never understand why these alts are so expensive! Blus (1998 Outback) was 99.00 from subaru! rebuild it!
  17. If it gets louder with speed it may be the diff. Rotate the tires one by one and use a stethascope(find a spot maybe the swing-arm or the rear of the bearing ub) and listen rear bearings can make noise and still feel "tight". Another possability are cupped tires.
  18. You just killed your own argument. His windsheild (which is what we are talking about here) is in his line of view, and it is HUGE. State doesnt calibrate feed or pay for certifiaction, that is on the back of the garage that does the inspection (unless it is a state inspector) and still someone pays for that. Being an inspector, sorry, car runs like crap it does not pass. Pre OBDII some people cheat, but if any car came in running like crap to me I would fail it as it is my rump roast on the line (When I did inspect). I never knew when it is a spot check from DMV.
  19. Who made this so called direct fit part. I purchased "direct fit" exhaust system for my Justy, and the only thing that was right was the muffler.
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