nipper

It happens at full load, your ALT is dying. Put everything (and i mean everything) on and check the battery voltage. Raise engine RPM to 1800 rpm Bet it is below 13. nipper

I thought the 2000 was much higher then that. That is what i paid for Blu, a great price. Go OE then, as aftermarket rebuilds have been very problematic

At that mileage i would say it is just tired. People will say put the car on jack stands etc etc. It's just tired. You can try (i think it is lucks) LSD rear additive. someone will chime in with what it is. nipper

Make sure they use the old analog type tester. the digital ones are worthless and miss altenators that are borderline as techs (and autoparts people) have no clue how to read them. If you go aftermarket find a real shop to buy a rebuilt from, not a chain. nipper

How many miles. What caused you to think you needed the FWD fuse? If the FWD fuse is working the solenoid is working..... for now. Did all your tires match? Sometimes it fails just due to high mileage. What are the symptoms?

The throw out bearing is rattling around inside the transmission. When you depress the clutch the noise goes away. You are loading up the bearing. MAN OH MAN you may win the award for the most miles on a clutch! I wouldnt be surprised if it is a thorw out bearing, or a pilot bearing. My money on throwout. http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing1.htm Look how the bearing is constructed, and you can invision the noise. Google it and 98% of the responses are a bad TO bearing. Even people with new trannies are confirming it. Shaft bearing would make noise as you released the clutch, not just when it is fully released.

I had that for a while too. what solved it was a really really good washing of the under body with a hose. It drove me nuts. nipper

Throw out bearing. When was the clutch last done and what parts were replaced.

My mistake, they are inductors DUH brain fart!

Engine out of car you need to do a leak down test. nipper

I prefer the tried and true, and safer method. Let the shop use an emissions sniffer to look for products of combustion in the radiator. nipper

Interesting, as that is only 1/2 the test for any sensor of that type. It is a standard testing procedure engineering wise. nipper

Clutch staying on the floor is either an assist spring or the hydarulic clutch itself (don't remeber if there is an assist spring). All seals from subaru. Valve covers can be aftermarket, spark plug bucket seals from subaru. Headgaskets SUBAUR ONLY! Waterpump anywhere. theromstat subaru PCV valve Tming belt any brand name. Tensioners and idlers yes BTW when you take the engine out the very first thing you do is flush the radiator. Antifreeze and goo can clog a perfectly good radiator when exposed to air.

an FYI, never use tap water in an aluminum engine. Use 50/50 pre,ix or demineralized water. I go for the sooby cap first, then a clogged radiator second. nipper

Odd thats now how you test a hall effect sensor. I cant find it in the FSM (clue me into the section) The resistance is the first test to make sure there are no opens in the sensor, there are only two wires so it is easy. The pattern will be 1-11-1-111-1 . Do the resistance if it fails that you are done. It is possible to loose a tooth on the reluctor (GEAR) and that will keep the car from running. It will be an all or nothing test otherwise.

It is a pulse of high/low AC signal. It does not happe an regular intervals as the signal gear is refernced to specific rotations. Look at the haynes manual even if it is not your year, as all the cam and crank sensors work the same way.

Frothy usually means it is overfilled. nipper

Resistance is one way, but you need both tests. You are looking for an AC pulse as the engine is cranked (which is the FSm way of testing it). It creates a pulse as the toothed "gear" passes under it.

C- says it right on it "cruise control Unit" D - is an antenna to something B - i can hunt down on the FSM if no one has an answer. Leave the green and black connectors alone. they are for diagnostics and reflashing the control units. Cruise control not workind 99% of the time is a bad brake light and or clutch switch in a subaru. nipper

Sure it does. The more you make of something the cheaper it is. Only 5% of any given AWD/SUV (excpet Jeeps) see any offraod, and even less see real offroad in the USA. Kind of hard to justify making 100 or 200 units (more likely less then 100) for what they would have to charge in the USA. ALso it would affect crash tests and function of the air bags so there would be a huge liability concern. nipper

"will check my options then, here in italy, parts are not as cheap and harder to get." Once again he is in ITALY. He said parts are hard to get and very expensive, he is not in the states where things are cheap. If he was here i would not have mentioned the EU or health and saftey. And in my expierience if money is tight and edpending upon the make of car, repolacing a clutch that is bad is just a bad clutch. One can see when removing the clutch if the bearing is bad or the seal is bad.

It sounds more like the pump. The pulsation is matching the rotation of the pump. There is probably a bad gear in the pump. A rack would be stiff when cold when trying to turn the wheel (and I mean winter cold) or binding. It wouldnt be pulsing.

Except he is in Itally, and i dont know what the nanny state/EU/Health and saftey will allow him to do. I wouldnt be afraid of using a used clutch either. nipper

I would go ahead and replace just the clutch, or if you can get it the clutch coil. I do not agree on a subaru that if the coil burns out the compressor isnt far behind. Compressors last much longer, so just replace the coil/clutch. nipper

no need to shout. Exhaust leaks can be of two types. One that opens up when the car gets warm, or closes up when the car gets warm. Ahev you noticed if the light comes on while the car is warming up, when it is cold, or after it is warmed? Or just havent noticed (not a biggy).