nipper

Push the turn signal away from you it will click on.

Really? Who knew. It will be a solenoid of some kind as I cant see the business end of it in the pic.

Try this http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/index.php?sid=58d9bbd6eb57866e06a144effd11b387

Hi! 2,5 block (engine) is engineered to the very edges of what it can do normally. You'll be better off starting off with a 2.2 as it is a stronger engine all around.

Injectors or carbed? Ot looks like the anti diesling solenoid for the carb but not sure.

Stinky, noisy, and indestructible. Try the Vanagon boards for some assistance as I think they use the same diesel engines.

http://oppositelock.kinja.com/proud-of-boxer-50-years-of-the-modern-subaru-1737707038

A timing belt is a complicated thing. Belts can stretch/break internally and look fine on the outside. How many miles are on this belt? How many miles are on the tensioner?

My choke on my Justy.

Time to check basics, do you have fuel injection and spark? Do you have a compression tester?

Thanks Emily, I did not know that.

My mistake, saw grand wagon and thought Jeep. Still stick by the compression test though

The solenoid may have failed as it is pulsed (hence duty in the name). It makes sense.

Coil is straight forward to test fir opens or shorts. Check your harness fr physical damage but odds are given the age of the car it can be a tired solenoid. Just an FYI, the flashing light indicated a failure on the previous running cycle.

Is this a straight 6? I'm guessing an aluminum head. I would do a sry and wet compression test first to see what shape the engine is in to begin with. All those years of driving upside down may have hurt it

FWD someone pulled the bulb. There are quite a few solenoids. How are you pulling the tranny codes?

Triple check your timing belt timing. Its not uncommon to get it wrong.

You cant just judge a car by its book value, but the value to you. What year is his, and how many KM are on it?

If your worried about resale value at 150,000 miles, may I suggest that one never buys a new car. Also consider this, that tire sizes are not an exact measurement (physical measurement is) between mfg's. Who knows if your new car bought today will even survive to 150K (hey its a rough world out there).

A bad U-Joint it my bet.

It sounds like you may need a new (used) driveshaft due to a bad universal joint. As it is not making a vibration at speed that slowly gets lower with time, inspect that driveshaft now. I am going to assume that its not a tire issue only because this can be a saftey issue. How many miles are on it. FWD fuse isnt going to help at all if it is the drive shaft.

You want to see a naked subaru engine? You want to see a subaru in a Beetle (and for once showing how its cooled) Got it right here

Dear Subaru, As a justy owner, please do share ho in bloody hell do you manage to bolt the carb on a justy manifold, or was it all assembled by Asian female children with the tinyest of fingers?

Call the Area Rep hes in your Owners Manual. This sounds like its something thats easily solvable with the right tech.

Fill the cooling system from empty SLOWLY with the engine runing. Allow the T-Stat to open and keep filling, yes with the heat on. Level ground is fine.