nipper

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, DO IT! The world, nay the enitre universe depends upon your doing it. Or maybe not. What was the question again? nipper

Explain rear gear please. How are you testing for power at the fuel pump. Clean all the battery terminals at both ends. nipper

there are two senders wired in series, so check the passenger side also. Before you go ahead and replace the sender, bench test it using an ohm meter. Take it out of the tank and inspect the rsistor contact, make sure its not delaminating or is really fouled. nipper

Its possible the Master is bad too. nipper

Always replace things without properly diagnosing it, if so do i have parts to sell you . This can be as simple as a corroded electrical connection. Is your fuel gauge reading properly? This code is high input, I forget if high is too high a resistance (i think it is, an open) or too high a voltage (a short). Im guessing its an open. These senders are very innacurate but rarely fail. The sender itself is located under the drivers side floor behind the rear seat easily accessed behind the rear seat. Ebay is a good place for these, but you wont find a custom rarely go bad part like this anyplace except a junk yard or a dealer. nipper

In what state are you living in, we can give a better answer nipper

there is an air pocket in the cooling system, not a biggie. If they changed the thermostat, they need to put in a subaru t-stat and not a aftermarket. The aftermarket does not allow for enough coolant flow and will cause the engine to run hot. I doubt any damage was done as long as you didnt cook the engine. This is a common thing that happens, even to the best mechanics. Its not that subarus are hard to fill up properly, its just that no one does it properly and have gotten lucky with it. nipper

It can look like alot of water, nothing to worry about on a subaru. nipper

#1 what screws up microsfot is all the stupid programs you load it with and all the websites that are visited, and not knowing how to force close a window. Gross get over the daul range issue . It wont happen as very few people want it, its very expensive to make, and not worth the marketing to the socermoms who cant even bother to read an owners manual let alone find out who the other stick works. Most drivers dont even know how to use turn signals. I just wanted to make an observation of the commercial, not get you in old foggie mode. Remeber Christmas is coming and i havent go you your coal yet (and others have just a bad issues as you posted for those years, if not worse). nipper

In mud. I just saw a commercial for the 2010 outback, where it was covered in mud, and going to a car wash (backwards). "More room for Adventure" "The original SUV Alternative"

Broken wire harness leading to the hatch. nipper

Why would it not make sense? Your high beam indicator comes on even if your high beams are burned out, same thing. Its an independent circuit of the Duty C. Do you have a flashing trans temp light on startup? That is an indicator that something is wrong with an electrical cirucit in the transmission. It is possible to be stuck in 4wd and not have a bad dutcy c solenoid. First thing to do is a transmission flush and see if that helps. nipper

Do a search on torque bind. FWD light is supposed to come on with the fuse inserted. The fuse completes a circuit to disable the AWD for emergencies. FWD light is independent of the circuit and has absolutly no bearing on whether the AWD system is working or not. Yes you have one, all automatic subarus have them in the 90's that have the 4EAT. And lets clear up something, you are NOT stuck in awd. you always have AWD. thats why it is called full time AWD. What you have is a malfuncting AWD system that is applying full pressure to the clutch pack OR the clutch pack is cooked so it is fused together and not allowing slip between the front and rea wheels on turns.

Anything above a quart every 1000 miles is considered normal for an engine this old (and basically any engine, but I consider normal 1 qt between oil changes normal). So its not as bad as you may think. tyhis engine may go for another 100-200K nipper

Replace the fuel filter and pcv valve. Let the dealer pull the codes and see what comes up. Also watch the tires and other rubber parts for dryrot. You may want to check the spare tire as you may need another one by now. nipper

Ah i missed the year of the car in the title of the thread, for some reason i thought it was an 03. That makes me much more comfortable that the crank position sensor is tired. Yes this is an interference engine. Also put a PCV valve on your list. Make sure all the seals are getting done also along with the water pump, re-seal the oil pump, tensioners and idlers. When was the last time this car had a tuneup? nipper

I could have talked you through it, i have for other people nipper

WHY is it going in for a timing belt? Its a 105,000 mile interval or 105 months and you are no where near either. The OBDII code reader has a plug it goes into, i think it is still on the dash on the left hand side in this year to read the codes. the codes are ONLY a tool and not to be taken literally all the time. If it comes up with a code for a crank position sensor I would believe it. there are not many things that make a subaru stall.

240,000 miles? I have seen high mileage HG weep oil, its not really uncommon nor a reason to go out and replace the engine. This engine has too many miles on it for just a HG and valve job (the rings will not be happy). Have the engine fully cleaned and confirm its a HG and not valve cover gaskets or anything else. If that is 240,000 Kilometers (150,000 miles) or 240,000 miles he is way overdue for a timing belt (105,000 mile intervals). I would do all the seals at the same time, water pump, idlers the usual stuff. Replace the PCV valve now to help the oil leaks.

And sadly you have missed an opportunity. You may have gotten subaru to replace the HG for free if you addressed it when it first started. Under 100,000 miles it would be fairly easy to get it resolved, over 100K its going to be tough. Good luck. nipper

That was a short post. What do you mean "when you dive in" ? nipper

Get the codes read first. your computer connector is the lower left hand side of the dash under a little cover. This sounds like it may be a simple sensor dying, like a crank position sensor. Do not remove the battery cable or anything before you get the codes read. How many miles on this car? When was the last time the timing belt was changed? Sometimes water vapor is just water vapor. nipper

Lets try this again grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr What year, model, engine and mileage on the car. What reasons do YOU, not your mechanic, have to suspect an issue? Do you have a CEL on? I can't remeber the last time someone had to replace a complete exhaust system. this is somethig you can do yourself. The pipes can almost last the life of the car, so shop around. Keep away from midas etc. Get yourself a price for OE pipes, IF they are really needed, or walker pipes. Dont use a tube bending shop as those pipes are cheap metal. If you want to keep the car for any length of time, by the proper pipes, but first, answer the first four questions. nipper

I love my BFG TA's. This is my second set on Blu. I live in NY so we see all kinds of weather and they havent slipped yet. nipper

What he said. Also start using the parking brake if it bothers you. Make sure the tires all match and are of equal wear. nipper