nipper

Sometimes this happens. It's not often but it does. As long as you are there inspect the wheel bearing too. nipper

Start with the easiest thing first. Use a meter and make sure you have continuity in the heater coils. If you dont, then we are done here. Odds are thats the problem, the easiest to diagnose and hardest to fix. nipper

Some states just require that all passengers wear seatbelts. The jump seats have seat belts. nipper

Thats where i got mine from

Sounds like the AC compressor is siezed or in the process of seizing up. What happens when you remove the AC belt and drive the car with the AC on. nipper

Do you mean the car wont accelerate or the engine RPM wont go increase? nipper

I'm not following either, but at that mileage it could be the T-stat, cap and or radiator. More details please. nipper

Leave well enough alone. If it is working fine, why look for trouble. nipper

Nope, not untill i got a great deal on a ton of them from here. nipper

Thats a little early for inner tie rods, but check ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, as well as the universal joints in the driveshaft. If it makes you feel better Blu has the same thing right now. Some roads make it worse then others, and sometimes its not there at all, so i am going to replace the tie rod ends and go from there. He got new balljoints 2 weeks ago. He needed them. nipper

i had a frozen rear claiper giving a wierd pedal, thats why i was asking when was the last time he had the brakes done.

OP needs to post how many miles are on this car. Inspect your inner tie rod ends, outer tie rod ends. nipper

Wlecome. How many miles? When was the last time the breaks were done? When was the last time the brake fluid was changed? nipper

and the price of a two rebuilt cylinder heads? penny wise and dollar foolish. nipper

Your going to have to check things, especially the tensioner. Replace the belt as it may have gotten damaged, but belts just dont jump for no reason. Something isnt right. Also inspect the sprockets for any wear. If there were any non-subaru parts, get OE parts. nipper

Er um , you know i hate to tell ya this They dont do that unless the timing belt is stretched or the tension and idlers are tired or bad. If you have over 106,000 miles or 106 months on this car you need a timing belt. Heck it jumped, you need a timing belt.

Does this have a ignition module by the firewall (i think it does)? the next time it dies check for spark. If you have no spark it can be that module. Things like the crank sensor can be tested with a analog multimeter while the engine turns. Ignition module/amplifier can drive you nuts trying to diagnose it. If you can get a used one throw it in and see what happens. nipper

have you priced a new regulator or diode trio vs the cost of a rebuilt alt? There is a saying penny wise and dollar foolish. Sometimes the replacement part (just 1) is many times more then the cost of a replacement alt. nipper

Running like crap after shutting the car off is 99% of the time a timing belt/chain jump. The sudden unloading of the belt causes the jump. How many miles are on this car. Its not a coil pack, as it would be 1/2 or 3/4 and it wouldnt be suddenly. nipper

DOnt just look at the bulkbs. Take them out and inspect them. i bet you have a bulb shorted out. nipper

DONT DO IT! Most country air comes from higher altitude. It is there fore thinner and you need twice as much as sea level air. Also city air is fortified with minerals and vitamins thats are essential for the lubrictain of the valve stem. nipper

Those are all over the place, except maybe the group buys. open your eyes, stop your whining and use the search, or just browse the site. nipper

Now now, in all fairness, he may have been a little nuts to begin with

how about ball joints, inner or outer tierods? They are all due at that mileage. nipper