nipper

Thats the ultimate list of subarus, its a subaru site (not the official one). nipper

No one has suggested this yet www.cars101.com to see equipment etc. nipper

Subaru has a great resale value, so its the wise thing to do (warts and all). Sorry about the family situation. nipper

If you do go the JY route, replace the contacts while you have it out of the car. Its just a really good idea to do it, then you should be able to pass the starter down to your grand children with no worries nipper

I would avoid 2000-2001. If someone offerd me one for a killer price, i would take it with my eyes wide open. These were the GM years. There also seems to be a tranny issue, that is fixable without replacing the tranny (bad internal seal). I mean they arent like buying a kia or saturn from those years. Also if your budget allows you to go 2005, go 2005. Its always smart to buy the newest you can afford, unless you dont like the lines of the car. nipper

There is a lot of computer power involved in making it work. It uses the wheel speed sensors, at least one accelormeter, steering wheel angle inout, and (here is the pricey part) the ABS to apply the brakes to the indivdual wheels to take corrective action. On the plus side, all these new widgets do make a (viscous) LSD rear diff unecessary. http://www.driveperformance.subaru.com/version5_1/blueprint.asp Granted thats a wrx, but it gives you some idea. And from the tribecca web site "Integrated with VTD All-Wheel Drive, standard VDC stability control utilizes sensors which constantly monitor wheel speed, steering angle, brake pressure, vehicle yaw rate and lateral g-forces. If VDC detects a difference between the driver's intended path and the one the vehicle is actually taking, VDC applies braking power and/or reduces engine torque to help correct vehicle path." SO they are probably all the same. nipper

It can need a drive gear, an over running clutch (part of the drive gear) or the solenoid is hanging up. The solenoid is a heavy duty relay. Japanese cars use what is called a reduction type starter motor. The beuty of these things is that from a cost standpoint, they electric motor is one size fits all, and it isnt terribly over worked, thats why they can last a very long time. The motor turns a reduction gear (which is where the speed is custom fit for the application). The output of this gear turns a shaft, on which the starter drive is located. When you turn the key, the solenoid energizes. This also forces the drive out to mesh with the ring gear on the engine. Once the engine starts, the RPM far exceeds what the starter puts out, and will drive the gear back on the starter shaft. When you turn the key with the engine running, that horrible grinding noise are those two gears trying to mesh. When you have a weak solenoid spring, or sticking contacts, the motor can still spin, but the gear has alwready been returend home. Thats why you COULD (I dont recomend this) actually hold the key to the start a hair longer then needed and not hear grinding. The downside to this problem is that you may damage the ring gear teeth (ie the flywheel). Thats a huge thing to replace, in comparison to a starter. So you may have a sticking solenoid A bad solenoid return spring A bad Drive return spring ( if equipped) A bad drive. Bad return springs will allow the drive to rattle around and nick the ring gear. The drive gear can be replaced, and the contacts are super cheap to replace. The drive motor does go bad, but its rare in a sooby. How do you tell? Remove the strater and inspect the drive gear, and replace the contacts. It's a simple job. nipper

It is possible the starter is still turnging, it may be sticking internally. You can replace the solenoid contacts, as it is only going to coast you time and a few bucks. Otherwise its very hard to diagnose it without hearing it ourselves. nipper

Really? thats unusual. nipper

I have to do that myself, but I've been told the bolts are a real beast to remove, and i have only noticed a slight change in handling. If I ever have to do the rear bushings then I will swap my radius bars in the rear to correct the sway bar angle.

I had to get them for front and rear. The Front just becuase it was at the extreeme limit of adjustment.

Have you taken a meter to the motor itself yet? I mean these things never go bad. nipper (edited just for bad typing)

Welcome and be patient. Sometimes its hard to get information on the site on nice weekends. As good as i am i cant answer your question, but some one else will. nipper

I had to get camber bolts for mine. nipper

They are waste spark and aftermarket doesnt use the purest silicon for thier wires. They use cheaper stuff. nipper

HOw did you deal with the wheel alignment issues? nipper

Well next thing to do is to cough up the cash and get one from subaru. But before you do that take the bulbs out of the third brake light. Thats the only one that passes through the tailgate. I am at a bit of a loss for this since it isnt in my driveway. You can use a meter to see how much current the the third light is drawing, and to see if its shorted to ground. nipper

Define "going bad" If your not blowing fuses, its not a short. And if the wiper isnt coming on when you hit the brakes, you didnt wire anything wrong. Where have you been buying brake switches?

Piston slap goes away once the engine warms up, and not in that RPM range. Also a 2002 shouldnt have slap. Unfortunitly in that RPM range, it may be something dreadful. Thats why i want him to get a stethoscope test. nipper

Yes please

A long screwdriver or wooden dowel works just as well. nipper

That can be u joints, CV joints, Tranny mount, Ball joints or various other front end parts. Time to inspect the car. BTW your tranny is fine. nipper

So aparently the only place my bluetooth box for my cell phone is happy is the bottom of the heater box. I cant seem to find any glue that will happily stick to this. How much clearance is there between the the box and the heater core. i was thinking of using some self tapping screws to hold the velcro for the black box. Ideas or suggestions. i tried epoxy, and either it was too old, or just wouldnt adhere to the plastic. nipper

oops my bad thats short notice for me, ill have to see if i can move some things to go.

ok so we know its 2008 ..... what about a month and day