nipper

Dont forget your gravity boots, we dont want you falling off the planet nipper

Physically inspect the radiator, and check the electrical charging system. The Radiator is probably clogged, or decrepid. If you look between the ac evaparotor and the radiator, the cooling fins may be all gone. You are due for a radiator. nipper

Run out of fluid, over heat the oil, warp the cylinder heads, blow the radiator, bake the engine and ruin the block. Nothing too bad

And the automatic climate control, which works well till it breaks, then it doesnt work at all. nipper

The switch is easily disassembled and cleaned. JUst be care fule and watch for little parts. nipper

Well that would be the evap system. The evap control valve is malfunctioining. nipper

Change the water pump with the timing belt at 105K. Your pump has a lot of life left in it. For a 60K interval, thats every other timing belt you replace the pump. The pump may be done at 105K, but it wont make it to 210K (yes someone out there alwyas has one with a gazillion miles on it). Even subaru suggests it. nipper

OK lets back up. What you need to do is look at the wheel you have not touched. Make sure everything looks the same. Have you gotten yourself a haynes manual yet? nipper

can you reproduce the knock at will? Is it a deep hollow knock, or a tinny kind of knock? USe a screw driver or wooden dowel as a stethoscope to try to trace the knock sound. nipper

Its always possible to have the disty off by a tooth. nipper

Yes its still a heat shield. Check them with the car stone cold. nipper

Parking brake shoes. nipper

Dateline wyoming..... i wish i took a pic, but i did not have a fisheye lense. A dualie Pickup with a fifth wheel, pulling a full size fifth wheel camper/trailer, and that was pulling a large enough boat that the boat trailer had dual axles. nipper

Always start off with the simple possabilities first. nipper

Yes they can, but rule out the simple stuff first, like a warped rotor, or high/hard spots. nipper

Give me the year and send me a blank dvd (-) and i can send you factory manuals nipper

We are beyond codes here, its time for tried and true 1930's technlogy. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the car and lets rule that out. Get a vacum gauge and tell us what it is reading. My feeling is that the ignition is breaking up at high load. The ignition system is under a higher load in 5th gear, then in fourth, even though the engine rpm may be the same. I cant scroll back as i'm typing, but lets make sure some things are ruled out that can affect igintion. Knock sensor (though that will affect performance not make a miss) OE ignition wires OE recomended spark plugs. I am getting the feeling it may be the coil pack, but i can't tell without an oscilliscope. It sounds like a classic coil failure to me. It can drive you batty. nipper

That can be a seized caliper, the caliper shold easily slide on the pins when the pads are out. nipper

If your CV boots arent torn, then at this mileage, the CV joints are fine. nipper

Not to the point of smoking. nipper

I would say rotors. Don't buy cheap chineese rotors. They also are made of questionable materials. Also at that high mileage, your wheel bearings are probably reacing the end of thier service life. nipper

How are the cv joints. Are there any dimples in the tires. If you rotate the tires on the left side of the car does the sound move? WHat happens when you push down hard on the bumper? nipper

It is time to go to the store and get the haynes manual. there arent many things that can go wrong on a brake job to have problems. nipper

google "endwrench transmission" sometimes the direct link on endwrench doesnt work. There will be lots of information there. nipper

The calpiers may be frozen. Did you lubricate the sliders? nipper