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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. I have the factory kit that replaces the ashtray with two more (higher amp) outlets. One of the online suppliers will have it. nipper
  2. Not without a conversion kit. Do a search here for more info http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2442&highlight=air+conditioning+conversion nipper
  3. The only bad things in these cars from what i hear are the ECVT and the oil pump. If you ever see a spare carb for it snag it. If its fuel injected never mind . Replace the oil pump as a maintanence item. The fix for the tranny usually is to install a stick. The typical failure mode for the tranny is the car does not go. They use a weird magnetic powder clutch which is troublesome. The fact that your goes but doesnt shift is promising. There is a just board http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi They may help. Not a lot of activity on the board but there is some good info
  4. Thats why i dropped an email, to see what comes in the kit. I dont want to spend 30.00 for something i can get on ebay for 5.00. Well lets put it this way, my shop said i need more aggressive tires now They are going to give me a sweet price on the work. We havent discussed it yet, but he said not to be scared. I think he looks meaner nipper
  5. http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/INT999013.htm I found this. I have an email into them asking some questions. I like the looks of the kit. I think this has everything i need nipper
  6. Just came back from the shop (god i love those guys, they arent mad at me yet). With the Allied lift kit the factory airbox on the engine does not fit properly. You need a cold air induction system. Any recomendations? The dogbone motor mount is not as beefy as i thought it was, this has to be modified by 2 1/2 inches. The shop is going to do this. The rear wheels will rub the struts at full extension. This is most likely not an issue in real life. The carrier bearing does not get moved. From looking at the driveshaft angles, it looks like this wont matter. My transmission cbale and bracket snapped. It looks like it was rusted solid, and just didnt survive the surgery. They ordered a new cable and are fixing the bracket. They are not sure if they can fully alighn the rear wheels. Right now it doesnt look like they will sit flat, but then again the car hasnt touched ground yet. That may settle when they move it to alighn it. They have more of a concern about the front end needing a camber kit. They MAY not need a kit, but they arent sure, they said its really close. They had to match up radiator hoses. The engine does sit lower, but i wonder if that will make spark plug changes easier or harder. So i need recomendations on a camber kit for a 1997 outback, a frsh air induction kit that WONT foul up my electronics, and a dog bone mount. thank you nipper
  7. Its a relativly low number in inch lbs (dont have the book in front of me). Are yours leaking? Sometimes they just come loose. nipper
  8. nipper

    homemade lift

    now the next question, since i dont have the car in front of me, can the car be driven for a short period of time without this? It's an automatic nipper
  9. nipper

    homemade lift

    I am doing a lift in Blu (1997 Outback) and the kit is all good from AA, except one thing. The shop called me to tell me the dogbone engine mount is now 2.5" too short. ANy suggestions on how to deal with this? nipper
  10. er um isnt that getting personal? hehehe Just the allied armament kit, 2.5 " put that with a height adjustable seat and im good. If im too low in a seat i have a tough time getting up after a while. Any extra height helps lots nipper
  11. 2 years last july .... tis ok. PArt of the reason for the lift is to help my back getting in and out of the car
  12. SO we are talking about cars that live an alternative lifestyle? nipper
  13. Well if you saw my legacy after it got rear ended it would apply nipper
  14. I worked for a defense contractor in the 1980's. I had the 1988 gl hatchback. This was wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy before the present paranoia. We built missel launchers, bomb racks, and sonar systems. Defense contrators will sometimes share dummy weapons. We were in college point queens, and had to get a dummy missle ASAP to suffolk county, about 30 miles away. The traffic people were all busy, and the delivery trucks were out. Ever see a 1988 GL hatch with a 10 foot long dummy missle on the roof? too bad it was before digital cameras. We tried getting it in the car, but we were afraid the missle or the car would be damaged. So we borrowed somones roof rack and strapped it to my roof. Oddly i had no problem with traffic that day. nipper
  15. heheh that didnt inspire confidence. ON the bright side no one has said there engine has fallen out. nipper
  16. When Blu threw a rod in CA, i wasnt nervous about it, just had it fixed, no issues. Here i am sitting in my house, blu is 1 mile away, and i have this HUGE knot in my stomach worrying about my car. I was sort of hoping mtnbob would be the first guiny pig, not me. nipper
  17. They can be touchy that way. I found that a name brand burner and at the very least staples or better discs work best. nipper
  18. i was thinking 'Roid Blu or Roid Rage ONe thing i dont remeber about the allied kit is if there is a carrier bearing extension. I was looking at the scorpian kit, pretty close to the same, but they list a carrier bearing extension. nipper
  19. I'm cheating. Since Blu needed struts, a wheel alighnment and an axle, and i dont have a paved driveway, i'm letting my shop (who is adventurous) do it. This is there first lift, they usually lower cars when requested. nipper
  20. Round with a hole in the center is best I have the BFG TA and are happy with them. nipper
  21. So Blu is still in major surgery. The Alied Armament Lift kit is being installed, along with 4 struts and an axle. The hardware goes straight in. The shop needed to modify the radiator hoses, as the kit drops the engine 2 1/2 inches. The shift cable has to be adjusted. Otherwise no real surprises. nipper
  22. SHck your front brakes. Uneven pad wear is a sticking caliper. THere is also the possability of a bad master cylinder, but thats rare. Before you remove anything compare the drag on the rear wheels with the front. If there is more in the rear then the front its possible that a checkvalve (if there is one) is sticking. SInce this is a diagnal break system check both the wheels on the same side. Use OE pads whenever youhave unusual pad wear, this way you can rule out cheap pads. Inspect the rotors. FLush lines with new fluid. How is your gas mileage? nipper
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