nipper

Thats for a north american vehical. Cars that look exactly the same can be very differnt on differnt continents and in differnt countries. nipper

Lets try an experiment. When you are driving less then 50 mph drive the car in d3. Once on the highway you can put the car in D, and when you hit the surface streets put the car back in d3. In d3 the torque converter can not lock up. I am wondering if the TC is locking up at the wrong times. If it is that would make it an ecy issue and not a mechanical issue (i think). Your gas mileage will suffer a bit, but it would confirm my suspisions. nipper

I am always impressed when people can do this kind of work in their garage at home. I never had a talent for body work. nipper

Maybe its just scared after the rock crawling ? How many miles are on the clutch? Maybe something is out of balance. Pull plug wires one at a time and see if there is any change. Did the car stall at all during rock crawling? nipper

I've transfered cars this way too. The big thing is to make sure its insured, and you have a bill of sale on you for the same day or reasonably close, plus a set of plates in your name. I've also gotten pulled over with documentation like this, and received no ticket. The really big thing to them is insurance. nipper

Like he said get codes checked, but if i had to make a guess one of two things, misfire (plugs wires) or the front o2 sensor. On my 2.2L Legacy i got a check engine light at the timing belt interval. Changed the belt it went away. I cant find any documentation to prove it, but what we guessed was the cam sensor and crank sensor got slightly out of synch and threw a code. nipper

Rod knock. With the engine running remove one plug at a time and see if the sound changes. Also use a wooden dowel or long screwdriver as a stethescope and see if you can trace the noise. nipper

Yes this sounds right. Also if your leaking lots of fluid, not just a few drips, you are clsoe to the point of total failure of the water pump. Yes you should resela tha cams, crank, and oil pump. You will also need a tensioner and idler. THose parts are due to go south on you, especialy if its throwing antifreeze on the bearings. There is a weep hole in the bottom of the water pump that is there to let you know the pump is failing. That would leak a little water. Leaking alot of water is bad. You should also replace the t- stat and the radiato cap at this time. No do not drive the car to the shop. One good over heating and the engine needs head gaskets. All it takes is one accident or traffic jam between point a and b and poof. Yes you can do the job yourself. Get a haynes book. nipper

I just asked my freind in London, UK who drives 30,000 miles a year. He said the recomended interval there is between 60,000 - 80,000 miles depending upon the car. So i was correct in thinking that 45,000 is really too low. nipper

Ive been noticing a trend with Subaru dealers and Major repairs like HG or Transmission. From what i've seen , espeicially with the HG, it's really up to the dealer to "sell" the repair to subaru. The better dealers seem to be able to get the HG's done for total cost, while the weaker ones come up with the "lets make a deal" numbers. It almost seems to be subaru has told the dealers "convince us". Some dealers are great at it, some of them don't want to be bothered. If this dealer had been mine, I would by every car from him as long as he owned the dealership. This guy is golden. nipper

I bouight a blue one It doesnt get lost in the sea of silver whites and blacks. nipper

I think your rack is shot or your strut bearing cap (thingies) are shot. WHen you go backwards, the only thing that changes is the direction of force on the bushing to the rack. Of course shck the simple things first. Check the ball joints, tie rod ends, strut caps and universal joints in the steering column. nipper

Generally as far as automotive design, nothing is designed for a high speed impact (that accident was the equivilant of hitting a wall at 140mph). Most accidents happen under 50mph. 35 mph testing is a good testing point. Body on frame construction will usually loose to a unibody head to head, but at high speed it just really who is looking out for you that day. It's sad that someone died. In my album is my 98 leagacy at a 55 mph hit in the rear if anyone wnats to look. There comes a point where we can make the cars so tough, but the human body just cant take the decelleration/acceleration (teo back surgeries later, almost 2 years and still not working). The other car a dodge stratus drove away with no visiable damage. nipper

Actually to make you feel a little better or worse, the crash test for the big one is the same as hitting a vehical of equal size. NOw those things are big enough that you should be able to avoid another one. Also they dont take into account the other vehicals ability to absorb the impact also. So avoid bridges trees telephone poles and other 1986 suburbans nipper

http://www.safecarguide.com/exp/archive/archive.htm Keep in mind these are fixed barrier tests, not the fender benders that are out in the real world. nipper

The tps is basically a a variable reisitor with three legs. Either leg is ta the end of the coil, the middle one is the wiper. 0vvvvvvvvvvvvvvv0 ............I ............I ............0 0 - terminals I - wiper .. just place holders nipper

hrmmmmm it looks like the other small cars that are out there. The first thing that poped into my head was a ford. Looks like im holding onto blu for a very long time. nipper

Not be inside it? Not much you can do besides drive defensivly and have the mechanicals in top condition. nipper

AT oil light comes on when the tranny gets too hot. It will flash 16 times the next time you start the car to tell you there was a (if there was) fault. how many miles and what year is this car. When was the last time the tranny was serviced? nipper

Sheesh I dont have a clue. Here in north america its 106,000 miles for the 2.5L engine. If this wasnt an interference engine, I would say let it go. But since its an interference engine i would be cautous. What I would do is call another dealership and ask them when your timing belt should be changed. I have never heard of such a short interval as 45,000 miles. Even when timing belts were "new" (1970's) they had to bechanged at 60,000 miles. Something stinks here, and i'm not sure what exactly. Subaru is a small company, so to save costs if something works in one country, they should be carrying it over to all countries. Is your "serivice manual" the owners manual? Also are you confusing inspect with replace? I would expect it to be a 106,000 mile interval. go to www.cars101.com to see the North America specs. nipper

"The file you are looking for was not found. It may have been moved or deleted from this server. Use the box at the left to search the Consumer Law Page and Alexander Hawes, LLP. " I am assuming that applies to GM side mounted gas tanks where the vehical does not lurch forward after getting hit due to the fact that the tires do not rotate in the direction of the impact. I get a file not found on the link. I dont even understand your logic on your last comment. I am bowing out of this thread before i say something i shouldnt. nipper

What your too good and fancy for a coat hanger? (giggle) nipper

SOunds like you have stripped threads. Two of the biggest causes of valve cover leaks, loose bolts and over tightenend gaskets (improper tightening pattern too). There is a reason there are torque specs on bolts. Sounds like you have tired / damaged threads. nipper

Ford Pintos and ford crown Vics, in a rear end collision gas splashes on the hot exhaust and catches fire. Gas tanks outside the vehical are 1000 times better then inside the vehical. For every scenario there is a counter scenario, like rolling over with gas on the roof rack. I have gotten rear ended in a leagcy at 60mph. I can attest first hand that the car will structually hold together and the gas tank does not leak (that rules out the first possible BOOM). I was pushed 150 feet past the point of impact so if there were cans on the back bumper car would have been shoved clear of it. I dont even want to think what it would be like if i had gas cans in the car. I guess thats why when i pack for long trips i want to be able to have both rear seats up and be able to pull the cover close. For every scenario there is another possible scenario ie Subwoofers if you get in an accident can become dangerous missles if they arent bolted down (or tools for that matter). In my case, I wouldnt mind having the spare on the back carrier also. I've been looking for a hitch type spare tire mount, but i cant find one. Ok Who has a welder nipper

Iv'e been looking for something like that for Blu. Il'd like to be able to mount a jerry can or two and a spare tire on the rack. nipper