nipper

Sheesh anyone teach you how to google :-p http://www.vortechonline.com/engines/ nipper

Well the tank is supposed to be only 1/4 full when cold, and up to the hot line when...hot. Anything more then that its over filled. Did you get a new radiator cap? I think you need one. nipper

OEM nipper

#1 something still isnt right. How many miles are on this again? #2 - Dont you have a coolant recover tank? The radiator need to suck that coolant back in, that may be while your running hot under load. You need to get yourself a tank, its important. I'm not following your expansion statement http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm nipper

er um you know you can carry tools in a helicopter like you do your soobie... *watches sky* nipper

How many miles on the car? nipper

there is an easy way to find out. Ramove it and see what happens. The tick yes, a knock i would have to hear. nipper

i had to look. There is a spedo lubricant, its grpahite and watery, so be careful. I dont know if you have one cable or two (depending upon hos the cruise works). I was taught to lubricate a cable from the bottom, and let the cable drive the lubricant upwards. I dont think that applies anymore, so go by the instructions on the lubricant. USE VERY LITTLE! it can stain clothes, carpets, and get flung all over the inside of the spedo and your pants if you use too much. I always replaced my cables. You can take the cable drive out and clean it and put it back in, only if your ready to commit to buying a new cable, incase you find out yours is actually damaged. nipper

First off it may be as simple as a dry cable. There is a trick to lubricating the cable, so just dont start globbing grease on it. Otherwise you need a cable. nipper

OE tstats have the bleed hole. I can see my temp gauge work, but i can also see with the scan gauge it takes a big temp change to make it move in the mid range, like 20-30 degrees. I can see my gauge move climbing mountains under load with ac on, and the scan gauge will say it 210. mid point or a little lower ssms to be from 170-200. I do know the gauge is fairly accurate where it counts, up top. It's cheaper to make a gauge that is accurate in one section then one that is accurate over the entire range. Thats a littl backwards from convential (insert type of gauge here) design, where the middle or working range is most accurate, and the extreems less so. nipper nipper

be careful i like Frisco and have freinds there .. better be good beer. Also even if it is shot, get a price on replacing the tank, also look at www.radiator.com to get an idea on price. Sometimes its cheaper to replace then to repair. nipper

Well there is only one (make it two) ways to find out. Do a leakdown test on the cylinders (requires least amount of assmbly) and see if it holds pressure. I really dont like the one in the cylinder at all, comsidering that can cause a hot spot and pre ignition. I would just find a short block. nipper

Ok that clears it up what he said nipper

The raditor cap pressure pressure is 14psi max. Get a new cap, its cheap enough. I am still not sure what your saying about the "plastic". If you are talking about the white plastic tank with the yellow cap, by all means remove it and give it a good cleaning. They get dirty with age and no one cleans them (including me). I am not sure how the plastic is corroded. Do you have a digital camera? nipper

Thats a typical oddity. Electricity does odd things. Every car i had with an alt always showed that it was failing by illuminating the break lamp on the dash (with and without ABS). Its just depends upon how the Alt is dying. My alt i just replaced lit up the abs lamp and the battery lamp. nipper

you and your magical math..... Witch i tell you he's a witch (and actually its not that easy, it involves calculous ... icky) nipper

Yes you have air in the system. How many miles are on this? There are tricks to filling the cooling system, which ill let the others explain. Did you use an OE thermostat? nipper

Well the good news is that it is not a blown HG. What it sounds like to me (lets hope) is a bad radiator cap. Since you had heat, there was no air pocket in the cooling system, which is what usually happens with a blown HG. If you had no heat and the described conditions, then I would lean more to a HG issue. The "rust" around the filler neck can be cleaned up with scotc brite (and should have been done before the cooling system was serviced). The not so good news si that the T stat in the car really should be a subaru tstat and not a generic one. Knowing a chain repair place its whatever thier supplier had at the time. There is a tube coming from the radiator to the overflow tank. Its a closed system whne things work well (the cap) and will put coolant in the tank, and suck it back in as the car cools down. i am not sure what plastic your talking about, but you dont need a raditor, And welcome. nipper

ok i dont mean to pick on anyone, but i am curious about something. i was always taught to fill the raditor with car running (slowly) wait for the thermostat to open (a big glub or two) then slowly fill the cooling system and the overflow if so equipted. I was also taught to do this with the heat on (some cars use a water valve to control temp). Put the cap on, Drive around the block, then after the car cools off check the fluid again. I have done this on every car (ramblers to subarus) and never had a problem. I have never had a problem with air in the cooling system. Are mechanics in a rush or something to get the job done, or has something else changed? nipper

i think 3 or 4. Get four incase its like 3.5 nipper

I have a freind that does 1 tranny fluid change at every synthetic oil change. By the time th car is due for a recomended tranny fluid change, he has flushed all the fluid. Personally i would rather do it all at once. nipper

just drain and fill 3 times in a row and that should get you to the 90% mark. Just remeber to let the car run a few minutes and go through all the gears inbetween. nipper

Yes no test driving, what i said should be done with the cap OFF and the car cold. No removing the cap on a hot cooling system either. nipper

White exhaust in winter is nothing to get excited about ..... because its winter. You will get a glub glub when the Tstat first opens and thats it, then you usually have to top off. If you get lots of little bubbles then you have a problem. nipper

oh sily me from looking at the wiring diagram, there seem to be a relay that the "dead battery switch" bypasses. I would look for that relay. nipper