Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

nipper

Members
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by nipper

  1. make sure they put in a SUBARU clutch kit and not an aftermarket one. The aftermarket ones can cause this. nipper
  2. Mine got soaked with oil when the engine blew. But in retrospect, it was giving out signs it was going. My aftermarket self diming mirror was flaking out. I couldnt figure out why. Once the alt was replaced it stoped doing it. At the dealer they said there was a lot of noise in the altenator (which they said drive it and the oil will burn off). That noise was the brushes being shot. So i am convinced it was just time at 198,000 miles. Thats a respectable number nipper
  3. odd no one has suggested the 10.00 techron fuel additive that cleans fuel gauges. ALso check the wires at the gauge and the voltage, to make sure you dont have some other electrical problem. WHen my alt went bad, it first showed up in a weird fuel gauge reading. nipper
  4. The bulb is burned out, just replace the bulb. nipper
  5. My brand new subaru 2.5L roars when you get on it, otherwise i cant tell its running most times. When does this roar noise or loudness happen? nipper
  6. I think the cause may be some mechanical damage inside the tranny. These are hard shifting but well behaved transmissions. LOnger shifts when cold is normal. The rattle can be a heat sheild, but the clunk has me concerned. you may need to take it to a shop to have it diagnosed. nipper
  7. ooooooooo .. but i did notice the car felt more twitchuer , that explains it ... nipper
  8. technically one engine (HUGE hole in the side of the crancase where the engine temp sensor for the ecu is) and one altenator (explains why my little black boxes were angry at me) But even after payinhg a premium for the engine, it uses zero oil in 300 miles, no leaks, plenty of power, cruise control is much happier, transmission doesnt hunt anymore, and six 1000.00 payments is far cheaper then 300 a month for 60 months (or whatever 30,000.00 over 5 years is). I basically told them if i am going to do an engine, i don't want to open that hood for anything besides fluid changes for 8 years, make it happen. I had an 06 Outback for nine days. I liked mu 1997 better. It seemed more responsive (dual cams) and there was not a single thing in the new car that made it better then mine. In fact the awd seemed very FWD biased. When i took it mountain climbing the front wheels would throw rocks before the rear wheels hooked up with a learch. My 1997 (new AWD unit) feels seemless. ALso the inside of my 1997 feels bigger then the 2006. Gas mileage was the same. The 2006 had a really high and hard brake pedal. I will say that the cruise control is still to aggressive, and downshifts too far when a squeeze of the gas would suffice. Thats actually when my engine blew, the cruise decided to stomp on the gas, shifted down too far and BOOM. That and the previous owners habit of chainging the oil once a year weather it needed it or not didnt help. nipper
  9. my gut feeling is the rack is tired. If its really stiff on a cold morning, then its the rack. nipper
  10. You have a bad mode door motor, its cycling constantly and needs to be changed. nipper
  11. The rule of compression tests is not so much the actual nymbers, but the difference between the cylinders. 200 lbs is high. A compression test needs to be done with all the plugs out at once and both wet and dry, with the throttle wide open. Actually better off with a clean engine, since you can see all the leaks, a dirty one can hide them. nipper
  12. OOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooo one of THOSE.... *hides the hand tools* nipper
  13. Cant now since you didnt let us tell you how to test it. Gut feeling there is nothing wrong with the torque converter. nipper
  14. Er....... um .... boy i dont pay attention to this board for a day and someone gets into all sorts of mischief. I think this is the first i've seen somone pull a slushbox apart. i hope your keeping really really good track of things. An autobox is not for the timid to pull apart. There are rebuild kits that you can get, but usually one tries to secure the kit first when doing it themselves. There were a few steps that were skipped here, like a proer diagnostics. If we could time the delay, we could have gotten a better idea where the problems was, along with a few other diagnostic steps. The pump has to be measured with a feeler gauge for wear, and i dont know what the specs are. You really cant always tell things by looking at them, you need more diagnostics to know where to look. Its possible that you may still have the problem or worse, since this seems a little extreeme, nipper
  15. but the headgaskets were still good .... nipper
  16. Well Blue and I are home. New engine hasnt used a drop of oil in 3000 miles. Blu will get an oil change this week. Now one more problem, im just too tired to fiddle with it, but i think i need a battery, the one in the car is of undetermined age. 1997 OBW 198000/3000 miles The car fires right up, but the battery voltage is low (11.8) right after start, and doesnt build back up for a block or two (which really angers the black boxes in the car). When the car runs, the new alt puts out 13.5-14 volts, even with a full load. Since the car was run down to nothing once on the trip, and the battery was showing signs of wear, I am guessing its time for a new battery. I was thinking there may be a slow draw on the battery overnight, but the car cranks too well in the morning, so i dont think thats it. Oddly i noticed if the ABS light and brake light comes on, it means a bad alt, if the battery light and brake light comes on, its a low battery. Go Figure. nipper
  17. its a rental, i already took it on logging roads, im not about to care that much about it nipper
  18. If the fluid is red and clean, you may have a seal thats is going bad. Have you tried manually shifting the tranny to see what happens. This would tell you if its a mechanical or electrical problem nipper
  19. lighter flywheel is only for faster revving engine, not for your problem. How is the hydraulic clutch parts nipper
  20. eventually. If it takes more then one second to engage you have a tired front pump and seal. 2nd gear which is used for reverse doesnt need as much volume of oil to engage, so it will not be as bad. How long to go from reverse to drive nipper
  21. They may be differnt, since they are differnt cars with differnt crash test results and charecteristics. nipper
  22. its not a simple system, but it is very robust. It can be a failed relay, bad brake and or clutch switch bad speed control unit. nipper
  23. both my scan gauge and GPS read a differnce, the gps about 4-5 mph, the scaqn gauge 5-6 mph. This is one of those things that go under so what. Depending upon tire inflation and wear this is not unusual. Also the spedos are sometimes calibrated on the safe (low) side. nipper

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.