nipper

ewwww thats ugly. The rear wheel beinf knocked in at top that far, dont know if the undercarrige bent or the suspension is bent. no way to really guess that, just let a reallly good shop look at it nipper

in the outback mailing list been having some humorous threads about going over to the uk and stealing all thier D/R trannies from thier estates nipper

what does it do when it wont start? nipper

MY 97 OBW does it too, been told to give it a good tune up and it will go away. Facing back surgery so it will wait till spring, as snow is coming here in NY and i dont have a garage. MIne also does it alot more with the ac on at red lights (which makes sense for a funky plug or wire) nipper

are these vaccum operated doors? if the are, i would check for a disconnected vaccum hose or a leak. Most of the hvac stuff is accessable and easy enough to trouble shoot. I think you have a bad vaccum motor or a leaky vaccum line. nipper

Because its a front wheel drive car with the most the weight over the front wheels. nipper

i went through that hell in my 1988gl for a while, went thru an axle every few weeks untill i went to the dealer and finally got the right part The dealer was cheaper then the mechanic who screwed me up the first 4 times. If you had a bolt in there you could damage the splines.... i didnt even think of that nipper

that almost makes sense .... can you ask them to show you another car if possible, see if it does that as you play with the dimmer, could als be you have a bad dimmer switch? nipper

yes we would like to know if we were right .. or nuts nipper

too much oil wil make it jump around too. Wiping down may not be enough, and also dont forget there is oil soaked in the housing now. Insepct the cable and housing carefully, may have to get a new cable and housing as the problem may be a worn cable. nipper

sheer pins are that for a reason, sacraficial. i would investigate it further to make sure everything was ok before i replaced the pin with another pin. Never replace a sheer pin with anything but a sheer pin, could mean the differnce between a 200.00 repaire and a 2000.00 repair nipper

hehe well i would make an issue out of it .. call the area rep. Dashboard shold not be affected by milage, should be by the clock. Whne was the first time w you showed them this malfunction, if it was before the warrenty was up you should be covered. nipper

i vote for a bad strut, bad wheel alignmnet, or bad bushing in the rear. Do a search on torque bind, if you had it you would know it. nipper

first off its not a 2000.00 surprise, its more like 1200. Secondly when you buy used, no one can guarentee that any car you buy will not cost 1500 after you buy it. Thirdly there are plenty of us that have not had a headgasket go bad, and are aproaching 200,000 miles. nipper

try www.cars101.com has lots of subaru history and stuff. nipper

dimmer is just a rheostat. If you fried that you would know it bigtime, would envolve at the very least a funny smell, maybe a little smoke... check the fuses

i did it on my 97 OBW 2 months ago with 180K and it fixed it on mine. There really is no filter to change. Subaru consideres it a non servicable item, but you can change it if you want to go through the hassel. DO a real flush .. total done by machine, not a few qts at a time. Then drive the car in 6 circles to loosen up the packs and its all good the 99.00 tranny flush sure beats the 1000.00 clutchpack repair also do a search on torque bind nipper

hi and welcome to the family nipper

i cant tell you about the scost, but the parts arent anything special, somone here will give you advice about where to buy. Just dont overdrive the bad bearings, as what will come back to get you is the hubs. i have over driven bad bearings (its amazing how much abuse they can take and still get you home) and ended up buying hubs from a dealer .. ouch. nipper

did you break a cv joint? usually things like that dont go without making a lot of noise (they roar). Pop the hood, start the car, put it in gear ( if you are 100% sure it wont move) and have the wheels pointed straight, adn at a wall or pole that is about 1 foot away just in case. Look at your driveshafts, do NOT walk in front of the car. i suspect you may have a broken cv joint and not know it. One drive shaft will be spinning one wont. i had the same thing happen to me in my 1988 GL. nipper

they want you to pay for thier xmass bonuses. What do you mean by you "we lose the entire instrument cluster; no speedo, no tach, no temp, no everything" If you mean aall the gauges go dead when you turn on the turn signal, do they come back on when you turn it off. I think you have a bad gauge cluster that has a short that is feeding back thru the turn signal. What i would do is try to isolate the turn signal circuit. Remove the flasher relay, remove all the lightbulbs, this should isolate the circuit except for the flashers in the dash, which are in series with the bulbs (i think). Now with this done turn on the turnsignals, and see what happens. Do let me know, but my feeling is that there is short in the cluster someplace between the gauges and the turn signal indicators, as that is the only place the two cross over. Also i would call the subaru area service rep and yell. nipper

This is my last response to this thread, as im finding it is safer to talk politics and religon then oil. Personally too many things can go worng with a car with long duration oil changes then can become a major problem if no caught early. An oil change interval of 3000-5000 miles is a good interval to inspect the car. Lets face it for most people, and form what i can tell here, a few here too, this is the only time the car gets looked at (we all seen threads that haves stated (gee such and such noise/cel light has been on for the last mont or two). if the car has an oil monitor 9which i never stated nor assumed since not all cars have them) that i would trus only if it told me to change the oil sooner then i planned. When i talk of failure, im talking catalysmic failure.Yes rungs wear, yes the oil sees alot of stress ta that point, but it is not acting a shock abosrober for 18, 000 psi of down force (actually its much higer then that, i just dont want to do the math right now). Every time you start the engine it suffers wear, but i have not seen a broken piston ring nor a sooby emiting a smoke screen. In fact cylinder wall wear using the recomended oil by the manufacutrere has been greatly reduced over the last 10-25 years. I cant even think of the last time i saw a heavy smoker, maybe 10 years ago. I refuse to risk a 2500-3500 engine replacement for the cost of two more oil changes per year. yes you can figure it out and arugue cost all you want, but i dont want to be broken down on the side of the road with thrown rod at the most inoportune moment (murphies law). On these boards the biggest issue has been headgaskets then followed (not too often) by a main bearing failure if the engine has been baked. As far as all oil having the same viscosity after 3000 miles, that was dino oil, that was true 15 years ago, but as with everything else time marches on, oil additives get better, chemistry gets better, and so does metalurgy, I dont care WHAT kind of oil you use, if you have a poorly designed engine to start with, its going to wear faster no matter what you do. With the advent of 100K emission warrenties, it is has forced better engineering of engines, better quality fuel, better quality oil, which in turn has made for longer lasting engines. Now lets talk something safe like the new medicare drug programs .... nipper