nipper

well thats one way to get rid of the noise You will have to re check the belt after a few 100 miles, then your good to go. nipper

i know they are made, and may be incorporated into the rear taillight assembly on jdm ... but have yet to trace one down. i was thinking of somehow steling one off a jag nipper

well someine tell me how and ild be glad to do it the board seems to stump me everytime i try Oh also do a search on wiring digrams as i think there was a thread where some site had them all on the web. nipper

i just want to say one of the reasons i like this board so much, is that it can get surprisingly technical at times, with varied veiws. Nice to give my brain some exercise nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47429 on the new boards... basically its a fraud for cars, works real well if the car will be ubder water .. but they dont run well that way nipper

i wonder.... if its hydraulic it should be easy enough to get a differnt size slave cylinder to make the clutch lighter... Just an idea nipper

has anyone emailed you yet? nipper

only other car i know that lasts as long are volvos, but their switch gear start to break, otherwise they tend to run forever, BMWs are rumored to too, but then you need a mortage to keep Hans around to maintain the car. nipper

i would question how he determined the HG leak, did you bring up the subject, or did he say you had a bad HG. i would question (meaning prove it to me as im not taking your word) anyone who said my car needed a major repair if i wasnt complaining about it. The one way to tell is a exhaust gas test at the radiator cap. little bubbles can sometime be seen when the thermostat first opens, and they may have miss diagnosed that as bad head gasket (fools). For the amount of money they wanted for the reapir (assumiong US$) you can get a new engine for that price. They may not have been trying to rip you off, but they sure sound incompetant. Now as to your next question, bank say 1400.00 US if your really worried about the HG, do your maint, and a few sugestions. Change the waterpump and thermostat. Change the antifreeze and use subaru antifreeze and the additive they use, and deminerilized water. Inspect the cam seals and main seal, replace if they even look the least but suspicous. i replace them wether they need it or not while im there, thats up to you, but its almost 90% guarentee they will leak in the next 100K (assuming they never been changed). Do change your coolant at 30k? (i think thats the interval). i have my own personal suspisions about a connection to old coolant and headgaskets (not just in subarus). i wish i knew what the design fault was with the HG. Otherwise watch your temp gauge, and enjoy the car.

600miles at what avg speed. How much stuff was in the trunk. 24 is a bit low, as i got between 24 (with spurts of triple digits) and 34 staying around 70mph. It could just be that when the car was new it wasnt broken in right when new. What tires do you have on the car nipper

well thats a 2500.00 gamble (or whatever a tranny goes for rebuilt). he may be right, may be wrong. BUt it will eventually make the car very hard to drive except for in a straight line. You can forget parallel parking or right or left turns. Not only will ths stress the transmission, but it will eavily load the center universal joint and carrier bearing, possibly your rear wheel bearings, and will tear up your rear tires with time. nipper

i never said running at operating temp is a killer of engine. Heat, maybe i should have explained better. Cold is a huge stress of the electrical system Subarus, and some newer cars now, crank a little bit longer to get oil circulating before the car fires off to reduce wear at startup. Oil has a hard time flowing at -40C. Cold is easily corrected, heat is usually a run away event. Cold water condensation, if following your point against mine, is not an issue as you said its operating temperature. Also with todays oils, its not as much an issue. If cold was as big an issue , we would all have dead cars by now. Alot of people here live in very cold winter climates. HEAT is a killer of engines, todays engines run hotter then engines of yesterday, They run closer to the critical temperitures where cylinder heads warp, and oil thins out, and starts causing engine damage. Engines today can NOT be heavily overheated without causing the oil to thin out drastically. The thermostat in the car is at 170-180. Normal engine oil temp is about 220-230. After that the oil starts to thin out and the additives start to boil off. Now consider an engine that overheats. With a pressurized cooling system, the boiling point of the antifreeze mixture can be as high as 263F ( http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/icar_resourcecenter_encyclopedia_cooling1.asp ) but any temp over 240 for an extenteded period of time will start to thin out and damage the additives in the engine oil. Oil in general takes longer to heat up and longer to cool down then antifreeze. Oil hotter then 240 will break down and cause oxidation. The crank journal is a hostile place, and damage occurs quickly once the oil gets that hot. This is why its important to minimize the time the car runs in the overheat range. hope that explains it, sorry for maybe repaeating myself .. just came back from back shots, but this was anice mental exercise nipper

in the newer Subarus the clutch is heavy. Soobies always had a heavy clutch, but at that age check the hydraulic cylinders as it may be close to time to replace them. nipper

Exactly what are they doing. headgaskets should be alot cheaper then that, im guessing 1100 for head gaskets belts etc ... 2500 is about what it costs to get a motor from ccr and have someone install it. nipper

isnt the switch in the door frame by the B pillar or did they move it. nipper

Sounds like you have a bad bushing in the linkage. Inspect the linkage, might as well replace all the bushings..... cause it isnt supposed to do that. SOUnds like you missed a bushing someplace. What bushings have you replaced? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47764 refernce that thread nipper

hehehe i can tell you stories. US engineering technicians are the bridge between the mechanics and the engineers. Mechanics (good ones) would point things out to the engineers (since most of them never pulled a wrench in thier lives) but wouldnt listen to the mechnaics, But if one of us engineering techs told them the same thing, they would listen (silly little things like tool clearances for instance). And dont get me started with rocket scientests, they should never be let out of the asalym except on testing day .... nipper

colder weather and fartehr driving distances. Heat is the biggest killer of engines, not cold. nipper

well not really. The starter is totally disassembled. Those parts are replaced, along with the starter drive and drive bushings. The starter motor windings are tested and replaced if found to be out of spec. There are a few more peices to the start then you see there. personally i just replace the starter, because, the next thing to go is the one way clutch in the drive. nipper

if the CEL is flashing, its the one in the tranny. If your ABS light was on, it would be a wheel sensor. nipper

well you can also do this with the car running, as the engine rpm will change when it sucks in whatever your spraying. nipper

i'm not sure. Without seeing a oil journal diagram, im guessing thats the last connecting rod to get oil. i am starting to suspect that when a head gasket goes, and the enigine gets repeatedly heated, or one really good overheating, thats the hot spot in the engine. That when you do a head gasket, or had an overheating , it is important that you get an oil change too, no matter how soon the headgasket went or the car overheated since the last oilchange. Oil gets too hot, it will thin out to the point where the thin layer of oil that cushions the bearing, is no longer doing that, then the bearing starts getting hammered. It doesnt take much to destroy a bearing Engine oil i think is not happy when it gets over 210-220 degrees. On aluminum engines, it can heat up pretty fast in an overheat condition. It seems like this is good added advice. There hasnt been many of these, but i have also seen this on the list for putting subaru engines in VW's, only there they use a much smaller oil pan, and basically make the condition themselves. I told them you never want to reduce oil capacity, but you want to increase it. nipper

cool i love details. i am going with stuck/frozen pistons. You may want to use an aeresol penetrating oil to get all around the piston , let it soak a few hours and repeat, then let it soak over night. i like the deisel myself, but i dont think you can get it where it has to go with a flat engine unless you fill the cylinders.. then talk about a mess. ALso be prepared to do an oilchange the same day you get it unfrozen. nipper

It uses the VSS sensor, and another sensor on the output of clutch pack inside the transmission. The automatic AWD is very sophisticated for the price of the car. the newer ones sue the ABS system to redirect power to the whell that isnt slipping, so it is possible to get 100% of the torque (on paper) to one wheel with traction. First it uses the awd, then it uses throttle control, then it starts applying brake force to the spinning wheels until the car starts moving. I think this first came out in 2001 with the 6cylinder. The technology nor testing wasnt available till that year for most auto mfgs. Remeber when you start having a computer applying the brakes, you have to do a lot of testing to make sure its safe. It can sometimes take years to write can program for these things. nipper

Raditor is the best place, its the easiest. Its a resvior and they have only one place to go which is out the neck. The cap can give you a false negative untill pressure builds up enough to escape out the cap.Yes min max is hot cold nipper