nipper

Change your plugs maybe you fouled them.

Here is an idea. Find a dirvers training school. Tell them you just need one class on how to drive a stick, as you have starting from a dead stop down pat . Where are you located

I am going to hang my head in shame here say HELP @!##$*&^&%%$###@ thing. i am deciding where i am having a run of bad luck as opposed to being inept, but hey, I am not perfect. Car - 1989 Justy CVT 30,000 miles Mechanically fine, trust me on this one. Fuel system, new pump, two filters, one at tank one at carb. History: Car sat for years. 1st carb basically had things growing in it, sent it out to be rebuilt. Crap rebuild, wasnt much better, parts were missing. Oddly others have had this issue on rebuilds. missing vent solenid piston 2nd carb, used, from an 88. Swapped the mix solenoid from the 89 as they were different connectors for some reason. Car ran much better, smoth as silk once fired up, rough idle, only abou100 rpm if lucky, usually it liked 1800. No cold start issues, no hot start issues. Vent solenoid piston seal shot Car was driveable Built a (read jerryrigged) a replacement exhaust, with a modern cat Fine. Shut it down for three weeks to go back and change my internal wiring, install cruise control, install mechanical gauge and new gauge pod. Sealed off the airpup inlet and still using the factory front cat. Fine All excited, cleaning up, goping to get reggy and tires... Start up .... $@#^%$! Car runs really smooth for ten seconds then dies. Put gas in car (nine gallon tank could be out). Car runs like crap. Sounds like it is running on one or two cylinders. Have to keep pumping the gas slowly to keep the engine running. The car coughs and spits through the carb when it stalls. Disconnect and plug the evap purge line to carb no help. I know timing is good because it runs well for a few seconds nice and smooth. no loose vac lines. My feeling is that this used carb that had been sitting loosened internal dirt and now it is all clogged. Carb 2.5 or three I have yet to decide. I am looking at subaru factory rebuilds (came down in price). I just can't tell what they are by thier descriptions, so waiting for an email. Otherwise another rebuild ... to find a rebuilder trustworthy.

You should see a Honda CVCC it is even worse. From these years most cars are a vacume line nightmare.

Ok we need to start from square one. Forget everything and drive normally. Luging the engine is when you are in too high a gear for too low a speed. The car will fight you and the engine will not respond immediatly, it will complain and maybe stall. Bottom end is main and connecting rod bearings. Top end is valves and cam The way to get better gas mileage is to get into the highest gear as soon as possible, ONLY once you understand how to drive a stick. I hate to say this, but you need how to learn to drive a stick, it is much more then just getting the car to start from a stop. You can damage the car without properly learning. Generally about 15mph per gear is ideal (hard to explain without actually being in the car with you). And yes a tuneup is in order plugs, wires, air, fuel filters and PCV valve. http://www.cartalk.com/content/learn-drive-stick-3 Please dont take this as nasty, I know comments can be taken either way and i am not being that way.

Well there are a few thoughts on this. You are both correct. As long as you are not lugging the engine things are ok, but it is not the valves that take the beating it is the bottom end. Have you tried skip shifting? Skipping a gear like 2-4 or 3-5? Valves are not the issue. Something else is and it has nothing to do with the shifting... what exactly is happening that you are loosing power ?

Go to the same station all the time. For the next three tanks keep a mathmatical record. Change the air filter/fuel filter and PCV valve.

Check your fusable links. If they are brittle replace them. Check your grounds. This is going to be a problem at a main someplace.

Actually the radioshack ones are not that bad. When I worked for a defense contractor they were always certified accurate for Military (in house defnse contractor) work.

Check your tire pressure. Shops sometimes check them by default, set them to some numbers they find someplace (which is usually a little under inflated) and kill gas mileage. Always look for the simple reasons first then go from there. Oil weight won't really have that affect.

Thats the going price for a rebuild of the complete AWD unit, clutch pack, seals, solenoid

What happens if you pop it into neutral and let it coast? How many miles

Once you rule out the driveshaft (may have to take it down to triple check) sometimes you just have to let a noise get a little louder to find it.

I would go with the cheap cover and call it a day, assuming you are talking about the grip area.

If you over torque you can stretch out the wheel studs and in turn stretch out the threads. This can lead to a wheel loosening up... or an ex girlfreind/wife doing it ... or the evil garden gnomes. But do only go to factory spec.

What driveline is this replacing?

I would buy one of these new if I had to replace Blu. Checks all my boxes, and the same size as Blu.

I found this kit http://www.airbagit.com/Subaru-Air-Suspension-Systems-s/85.htm Looks pretty slick, like someone did some engineering for it.

This is a 1900 pound car

Just an fyi on warrenties http://www.autoblog.com/2012/03/29/ftc-shuts-down-auto-warranty-robocaller/ Driving around in FWD could possibly fry the Duty C Solenoid and lock you in 4wd. You don't have that issue as you have no rwd so don't worry about it.

Up in the air it may not make noise. There is not enough drag on the driveline (driveshaft) to cause the noise.

Yes. i havent used Coopers in ages. Just the Justy needs tires and cheap ones at that. These were the first ones that came up on the list that was not some wierd chineese brand.

EEEKKKK back to the yellow text again?

has anyone bought cooper tires of late. Looking at Cooper Lifeliner tires 175 70r 13 for 49.00 each.