mudrat79

You can however convert it to work with your 4:444 gears in the rear diff though..... Do a search for LSD conversions in the Archives.....

Go out and Have fun.....Thats the most important thing.... You'll be surprized at how well you might do..... One of the Major things to remember is if you have a Tendancey to play hard and drift alot while out in the woods....Your way ahead of the game compared to most rally Crossers..... They are pavement pounders 99% of the time....the only time they get Wild and Crazy with their car is on rally Day..... I managed to get a First place win in Open class against WRX's STi's and Other High end Cars With my Little ole EA-82 Turbo RX sedan....and Let me tell you I had some severe Issues with the car that day..... But I was out to have fun, and Not win, and Ended up there anyway..... Good Luck, John

Are you talking about dropping a Turbo Motor into a non-Turbo car.....?? If so the cost will be higher still due to the fact that you need to transplant wiring harness and Everything related to the turbo motor.... If you are talking about dropping it into an exhisting Turbo car, then Swap cost should be somewhere between 250.00 to 500.00 One thing to concider when doing this , Buy one as cheap as possible, then do a Complete re-seal to it before install.....Replace T-belts, waterpump, and At least reseal oil pump...I try to replace them with new When ever possible.... These JDM motors have been sitting on a Boat or in a Warehouse Some where for a Min of 2-5 yrs, so all gaskets/seals are going to tend to leak as soon as you fire the thing up and start running it ...... All food for thought.......I do these Drop and Swaps regularly, and After the first few, I Found out as preventive Mainanence, it is best to have it fresh before you drop it the first time.....Then you aren't looking at more labor time 2-3 months down the road..... Hope this helps, John

I am 2 hrs South of Portland About 10 mins off the I-5 Corridor.... You are welcome to swing in here Not sure when you are getting into and out of Portland, But your welcome to Clean-up and or crash here over nite....?? Give me a Jingle....# is in my Signature...... Good Luck, John in Eugene

The 10 teeth on the pinion although 10 are slightly different in size.... Think 10 teeth meshing to 37 versus 39.... So yes they are different unfortunately..... P.s. I have your Goodies sitting here in a Box.... John

As far as running the Turbo motor Off-Road......I built one last Winter, And Noah ( MSLGECKO ) over in Montana Bought it....IT is Running Just fine, and is Doing great Off-Road......I stuffed a 5 speed Hi-Lo behind it and Opened the Exhaust up of Coarse.. If you decide to run it Non Turbo with a Carbed Block..... Compression is all in the Pistons as Someone stated above..... If you decide to shave the heads , Don't Go more than 20 thousands.....That will bring your Compression up to a Nice respectable 9.2-9.6 to one I can't remember specifics..... And the MPFI heads will still go on the Block well.....And all Turbo wiring will run it without the turbo Just fine..... One thing to remember The Turbo motor should be a Hydralic Lifter Motor.....The Carb'ed Block you use Needs to be hydralic as well...... Another thing to check If you keep the turbo unit for now....Verify if the Turbo unit is Oil Cooled only or if it's been upgraded to the Oil and Water Cooled version.....If it is not Water Cooled Stick an Ea-82 Turbo on it..... E-mail me if needed......I can walk you through what I did to the One I built..... Later, John......

From Experience...... In my Gen one wagon, I lost a Rear Hub,Drum and All..... With 2 Guys in the front seats, and My tool box on the front passenger floor, I was able to limp it home across town about 6 miles .....Wasn't fun, but it was done......I would have tried to Fix it on the spot, but the Tire wheel and Hub went bouncing off into the forest Along side the road we were on......I didn't feel like hunting for it in the Dark....... Good pics by the way...... On a different note...... Out 4x4'ing once I forgot a jack and of coarse Ole Murphy Gave me a flat......So I loosened all the lug nuts then found a Log and Some rocks I could teeter Totter on.....Got the wheel with the flat in the air and, Fixed the flat with no issues, and No jack..... Later, John

Questions To ask are..... Does the Kit come with everything..... Steering Linkage,Shift Linkage, All Blocks....among other things....??? If you want to build a Monster Ride, Go 2-4 More inches and Stuff a T-case in there.... I can Set you up with most of the hardware to make that happen.....The Rest you can find or source at your end.....Cheaper than you'll pay For the Aussie Stuff.... If you want more info pm me..... Good Luck, John

Stub shafts coming out of the diff are by far the weakest link......I know this well..... After that it will be the Axle Cups Grenading...... So for you My Utah Bud I would Say Weld it, then carry at least 2 Extra stubs as well as 1 Rear axle and One front axle..... Your Ride is Light enough You won't Break as Easily as We did at the Con and Other places..... Later, John

For a Standard Lift 3"-4" Go with P.K. Davis......He makes a Good Kit..... For anything Bigger.....6"-12" - Or Oh My Gosh....... Contact me and We can Chat..... John.....

Thanks Guys..... I'll call you tomorrow Flow to confirm address and Location.... John

I'm there For sure with My BEAST..... I'll also have a Newbie from Olympia Area with mudrat 4" lift in an 86 Wagon with new 27" Swamper SSR's and Mudrat LINCOLN LOCKER in the rear... If I can get it to him in Time.... Also should have 1-3 Of my Locals along as well Providing they can get the free time ...... See you all there......John

hey guys I pm'd both of you.... I am coming North tomorrow , and I was asked by madmountainmonk to pick some stuff up from XSNRG that Baccaruda was supposed to drop off there....Can you both pm, or call me to verify the goods made it as well as give me a good # to catch you at tomorrow Mark.....??? I am up till 11pm, so your welcome to call me till then...... I tried to call your Cell Mark , and left a message.... Talk soon, John

Hey I dropped you a pm as well.... This swap CAN BE DONE .......I'VE DONE IT....... :cool: The Only difference I came across is the fact that the 96 and Newer trans Will have an electronic speed sensor at the trans for speedometer.....on the older trans it is 100% mechanical.... To do this swap Pull the speed sensor and Just stuff your factory mechanical speedo in the same location..... You may also need to use your stock trans mounts .....I think there was a slight change there as well, but the 2 or 3 different generations of Trannys will interchange...... I went to my Local Dealer and verified there is NO CHANGE in the PIN LOCATIONS between trannies..... I did a 97 Legacy Wagon trans into a 91 Sedan...... Hope this clears things for folks..... John....

Hey all I need Kens Cell # .....He is supposed to be coming to my place today And Is overdue..... If anyone has the # give me a call on my Cell Please... Thanks, John 541-206-2494

Looks Good Bud..... The things We do For Fun...... Later, John

Lets just say it's in the works......

Is it Auto or stick...??? Also Brightons are REAL low.....I will investigate and Let you know if the Outback struts can maybe get used in conjunction with a Lift ... I'll call back in soon...... John.....OUT.......

Hey mikie.... What Did you use for coils on your struts in the front...? Rear's look stock, but fronts Look custom or Borrowed rear Coils...?? Love the design.....Does the chain drive give you any grief with trying to walk out of the tranny...??? I Love the use of the Hub assembly.....as a carrier..... Fab On Man....

With some spring Mods you can make an EA-82 car very capable on an AutoX coarse.... I did one in my RX but it was ill equipped for an asphalt track..... I had loads of Fun freaking everyone out with it though....

If it is indeed the Crank sensor....Retail dealer cost is around 32.00 I get mine a bit cheaper , Cause My dealer Loves me...... aftermarket you should be able to get one for around 25.00 I'd think.... But I prefer dealer parts when I can...... John

Don't quit posting...this is how everyone learns the most about gremlins and Other odd issues with these cars.... Because that car started life as an Automatic, you have to go up under the dash and Plug a Test mode wire in to get old or stored code...... Is the stick in it yet, or is it still Auto....?? Let me know, John

Thats All I can say to that Morgan.....

Hey Justin..... Call me ....That Engine Ran fine when I brought it Home....??? I say you still have timing issues.....Are you 100% sure you didn't get one of the belts a Tooth off when re-installing them.....??? it is very easy to do....... Talk soon, John

To time the Disty, you don't worry about cam sprocket timing they are separate from each other.... To do the Disty, pull the inspection cover on the Block at the bellhousing......Turn the engine over by hand till you come to timing marks on the flywheel....You want the set of Marks that read 20B 10B ( 0 ) 10A 20A ( A meaning after Top Dead Center) and ( B meaning Before Top Dead Center.....) You Want the 0 mark to be on the pointer at the inspection hole.....with this in position, take the disty with rotor in place and stuff it so that the rotor is Pointing directly at # 1 Plug wire location in the cap.....# 1 Location on an EA-82 Anything is going to be on the rear Of cap just to the driver side of screw or clip on the cap......If you are careful you will get it right first try......if it happens to be out 180 degrees,it will pop and cough, but not run..... in this case pull cap off , turn disty to #1 again then pull it out and stick it back in on #2 which is directy opposite of 1 on the cap....... this should get you running...if it runs/idles but wont accelerate, it is a tooth off in the disty, repeat the first step and be double sure the rotor/cap are lined up directly on #1.... have fun, hope this helped, Mods....Archive....???? John.......