ballitch

get this, my mom had my 86' GL for like 10 years and never replaced the clutch, then it started slipping one day and she had it replaced, 10 years and like 100,000 miles, maybe it was a blessed clutch, come to think about it, she did grandma the damn thing.

the thought of some fool starting his car and redlining the damn thing makes me want to commit a capital offence, just wait for the damn thing to come up to operating temp. its an aluminum block and heads car for crying out loud.

all i gotta say is f**k automatics, do the 5 speed D/R swap.

that was so cool man, when you get stuck in mud/water that doesnt make you float, try moving steering wheel all the way right and going in reverse, then switch to the wheel being all the way to the left and go in reverse, it will help sometimes. good to see you guys brought plenty of tow rope though lol.

you probably wont notice any improvement in gas mileage in just RWD because your right foot is always down, lol. oh, and just remember, if your car is N/A, the rear end will more than likely be okay, if it's turbo, then your going to have trouble, remember the front takes half the power, the rear takes half the power, with that set-up both halves are happy, take one half out of the equation and something might get towe-up.

yes someone please chime in with the correct info regarding subes being interference or non-interference motors.

dagnabit, closet one to me is in Cali. i wish we had one in oregon somewhere.

was your brother's car turbo?

just grab yourself some 6 lug toyota rims and knock out 2 studs on your hub(opposite each other) and mark and drill the other 4 holes, go to G.I. Joes and grab yourself 16 new lugnut studs and call it good, and you can still use the stock holes.

Id say at least 7-9k to fix damage, if you havent paid that much in insurance since you've been with your insurance company, they'll probably total it, since it's an 02' with a blue book of at least 12-14k, if it costs them more than half what the vehicle is worth then they'll most likely total it. And with the kind of damage that your talking about, since all subarus have a unibody constuction with a highly reinforced body structure, if they do fix it, it may not drive straight, if the frame is bent as bad as you explained, but that is probably the reason your wife is just fine. ~Josh~

I used a cresent wrench with the open end on the caliper and a screwdriver put thru the hole in the end, and turn away. worked awesome, and best part it was free.

Alrighty, thank you everyone for your help. Now, another question.......does anyone have an EA82T fuel pump in okay condition for sale that is $65 or less shipped?

I thought that 165 crank HP would be too much for the stock Pressure Plate that was built to handle 85-90 HP, and the WHOLE EJ22 I bought was only $400, that came with everything but ECM and wiring harness, and the fact that EJ25 blow HG's. But thats just me. ~Josh~

Too bad I never heard of this richierich before, could have used him like a year and a half ago when my 86 GL blew HG's and went to crap, best part; a place in Lake Oswego that works on subes said i sucked a damn valve, only all my valves were fine when i took block apart, but my HG's weren't.

So with 3 pages of posts I have one remaining unanswered question: Is the SPFI or MPFI fuel pump up to the task of adequately fueling an EJ22? Thanks everyone for your input and of course, time. ~Josh~

rule of thumb would say, while spending $2700 on a HG job, pay the extra $200-400 on anything else i.e: water pump, oil pump, tesioners, timing belts, and anything else you can think of, they have the engine already out, you paid to take it out, might as well fix more than just what is wrong, think preventative maintenance.

guess that settles that then. gonna go drain tank and take pump with me to napa and compare fuel inlet and outlet sizes. oh and flush tank too.

damn $50 for EA-71 pistons and rings .030 over-sized, holys**t, buy those dude, if you dont your letting the best deal ever slip through your fingers.

Alrighty, so use napa parts #TFP2P74028? Didnt you say that it had the same fittings as the carb'd EA82? Still waiting for someone else to chime in and back up Archemitis. Thanks peeps, ~Josh~

I know that the EJ22 fuel pump sounds like a noble idea, but I was under the impression that subies had the fuel pumps in the tank, also the cost of a EJ22 or EJ25 fuel pump(got a hunch they're the same lol)would be too much compared to a EA82 SPFI fuel pump. So is it written in stone that our fuel pumps are located in-line, not in-tank? If so then I wil grab the F-150 pump or a fuel pump out of a JY tommorow and call it good. Just I want more than one person to say they're in-line, dont want to buy crap I cant use or have no need for. Thanks guys, ~Josh~

so do I disconnect the current fuel pump, leave it in tank, and use wires from old fuel pump to power and switch off (relay) the new pump, only if I use an in-line ext. pump right? Thanks, ~Josh~

so I have a couple options, 1, go with the F-150 pump, 2, go with the EA82T pump, 3, go with an in-line pump, 4, go with a EA82 SPFI pump? theres a JY in salem that has some subes in it, just need to know if the EA82 SPFI pump is up to the task. And if I use the F-150 pump, does it fit into the tank W/O doing a good amount of tank cutting, like to stay as close to plug-n-play as possible. Thanks everyone. ~Josh~

I starting to do a EJ22 swap into my 86 GL wagon, tan if you must know, lol, and I need a fuel pump, I have read that I should use the EA82T pump, but I was wondering if the SPFI or MPFI fuel pumps will work, being from the EA series motors, will they keep up with 2.2 liters of fury?

God, I wish we could get that kinda weather here in OR, last year was awesome, had like 5-6 inches of snow, then freezing rain over it, had SO much fun.

While the use of double-clutching helps tons, it may not be say, a time effecient, way to shift if you're auto-X-ing.