Subasaurus

spring is an issue, but the bushings are also since i can see that no rubber plastic bushing remains, just metal on metal.

i imagined the roll pins are a pain, im going to get to the project here in a couple of hours, can both roll pins go out the same side? because i dont understand how it can be done any other way.

if anyone was interested in buying some for themselves, heres some pictures of the clear ones, if you need a specific picture, let me know and ill gladly take it. overall im pretty satisfied.

thats another thing i noticed, the spring is missing on mine but the junkyard one still has it, guess ill have to go get it then, thanks wagonist and colemanapp, think i have all the info i need

coukd you explain the pin a bit more? im only familiar with a cv axle roll pin, i have the special punchout tool for the cv pin, is this the same? and yes it is diagonal.

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 4WD Single Range 5spd so i went to the junkyard, picked up the shifter bushings just like i had done to my 93 impreza a while ago, removed some good condition ones and came home, well i did not realize that the one i removed it from was from a 2WD, thats why it was so easy to remove, and now i can't remove mine since Subaru put the bolt in the wrong way, and its in the way of the 4WD knucke that comes out of the transmission, its such an easy project yet so difficult its stupid. i did notice theres i think a roll pin on the piece that connects to the transmission but again, the stupid knuckle is in the way! please don't tell me i have to do this whole elaborate thing and remove almost everything just to change these rubber bushings on a bolt. the shifter is being annoying on the highway and i really want to just fix it. has anyone else had this problem? what did you do? any input is greatly appreciated!! the thing im pointing at is the nut, not the bolt, bolt is on the other side and thats the problem.

my gf's civic takes 0w-20, remember 2 years ago when i saw this i was like whaaaa?? thats pretty much water, wheres the lubrication, not suprised theres issues comming up now about this weight in oil.

im sorry you couldn't fix your issue.

rear seats can come out also and front seats can be turned into uncomftable plastic bucket seats, theres not really much weight you can remove from these cars to be honest.

i just bought the recalled item acouple hours ago, will get here on friday, i think 30bucks for it was alittle pricy but where else am i going to find one unless i make one, plus it was new old stock so i think i did okay.http://m.ebay.com/itm/261697337308?nav=SEARCH

finally someone from texas that owns an old gen too!! i had to buy another vehicle for parts, thats how hard it was finding parts. maybe you should also consider buying another one thats junk (if you can find one) distributor is upwards of $200, TPS is right on where you said $320, injector is $480, each lifter is $90, its scary how pricy things are for these old vehicles, best of luck!! and i feel your pain!!

replaced mine 2months ago when replacing the lifters in my GL, cracked my hoses and got new ones, 5/8 from the scrap pile at oreilly's, don't know what quality or anything but they were free, but i also noticed oil at the top of the hose and the elbow piece?? is this normal to have engine oil way up there? wasn't much but still.

why would anyone do a playboy subaru?!?!

yes! the Rav4 and i think the outback were the ones i confuse with when seen from the front unless i look at the logo badge.

i can confirm this, i only switched the coils from my donor/parts vehicle to my daily driver, not the shocks, and i noticed a huge difference, the shock doesn't do all the work, its also the spring that does some too, my old coils had 215,xxx and the donor/parts vehicle had alittle over 100,xxx. i used to think that because they looked good and seemed right, that they were fine.

i ordered some clear ones and will get here tuesday, will post pictures if no one has yet.

its been a year since i did this, i honestly don't remember sorry but pay attention to the rotation of the belt to which direction it goes and the rotation of the tensioner and bend it in the way you want it to go, thats what i did.

i compleately agree with you! i can't remember the models of the vehicles now but every once in a while, i see 2 cars with the same back end and the only thing that separates them and makes them different is the logo badge, sad sad world.. and i bet you subaru only does the boxer and AWD only because it helps sales, not because they care anymore about anything. theres a toyota suv that looks similar to a subaru outback or forester, can't remember now.

i like them but i dont like them, their cool to have and unique, especially when you roll your window down and shut the door, its different, but when your trying to calibrate the door and window due to the seal being old and doing weird things, it can be a pain, if you don't get it right, you'll hear this annoying wind sound over 40mph, took me a couple hours to get mine right since the original owner didn't care how he treated the door.

thats a really cool wagon you got there, i have alittle rust on the passenger side :/ sorry im not much help lol just complimenting on your subie.

but no one in the world seems to care about the old subies besides in this forum

that was a pain, i still remember mine also, left side was the one that always wanted to come out, what i did was removed the tensioner and hammered it alittle to one way, tested it out by turning the vehicle on and see if it fell off, i overdid it and was rubbing on the engine block, so i hammered it some more the other way and got it, that is for buying a cheap quality tensioner btw, i learned my lesson.

what is that glowing on the logo? home made clyclops eye?

is $35-$39 cheap? seems a bit high to me but then again im surprised they even make them for our cars.

noticed this at the junkyard on a vehicle, plastic rubber piece that goes infront of the headlight, also interested! have lots of chips on mine