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TheSubaruJunkie

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Everything posted by TheSubaruJunkie

  1. I usually leave the steering knuckle attached to the car while doing this job. A vice is not needed (unless you are replacing bearings as well). Which brings me to my 2nd point. If the old axle is wedged in there pretty good, its possible to drive the inner bearing out of the hub when you extract the axle. IF this happens, you are pretty much forced to replace the bearings. When installing the axle, its easiest to do it with the knuckle installed on the struts.
  2. you should only need to jar the axle loose. Do not worry about ruining the threads on the axle, its an old axle and you should be returning it as a core anyhow. When installing the new axle, just slide it through the hub & bearings and you should get enough through to expose the new threads. Then you can put your rotor on, the cone washer & the 36mm castle nut... then tighten the nut and it will pull the axle through all the way. Once you do this, remove the nut & rotor... install your brake backing plate, caliper brackets and all that good stuff... and complete the job. You only need the hammer to remove the old axle. Not to install the new one.
  3. Ken if you are on a budget you may want to consider re-gearing your transfercase instead of adding a 2nd. Right now you can get 4.7:1 T-Case gears for $300, but if you do the 2nd case you need the adapter, 2nd case & custom front & rear drivelines... and you should replace your t-case mount as well. When I added it all up, it was nearing $800 for the dual cases. I run the 4.7:1 gears in my single case and I love it. Its obviously a huge upgrade, and almost as low as the dual cases. Im curious to know more about the isuzu rear axle. Is it as wide as the 86+ toyota axles or is it narrow like the older toy's?
  4. You dont need a machine shop, you just need to get the special tool. Can be bought at almost ANY hardware store; The same tool can be used to extract the old bearings if they are bad.
  5. Your PM box is full, you should delete some PM's. For now, i will reply here:

     

    Yeah, each wheel has 2 bearings, so you're going to need 4 for the entire front end. Also 4 seals, 2 for each side. I think last time I bought the bearings I paid like $25ea for the bearings and like $12ea for the seals. I got them from NAPA.

     

    The rear bearings are completely different and much harder. I wouldn't worry about them just yet, rear bearings usually last ALOT longer than fronts.

     

    As far as the front brakes, there's nothing special about the front parking brake. The job is almost identical to the rear, the only difference is you must rotate the piston in the caliper to reset it, you can't just push it in like on the rear's. There is a special tool you need that makes resetting the piston alot easier. The tool is just a special socket that fits inside the caliper piston and lets you use a wratchet to rotate the piston.

     

    Rotate it clockwise to seat it back into the caliper.

  6. I also agree with getting Subaru OEM exhaust gaskets. You can find aftermarket gaskets at Napa, but i have had problems with them failing prematurely. 8 out of 10 times, the stud will come out with the nut. It sucks, and if you are lucky you can just thread the nut & stud back into the head and it will hold its own. However, you may find aluminum on the threads of the studs indicating the holes in the heads themselfs have stripped.
  7. Guess I should update since my original reply was more than a year ago. Changed webservers, so the old photos are gone. New photo's anyways WCSS10, from left to right: Me, SuberDaves beautiful wife Lisa & Jibs on the far right. This is first thing in the morning, 7am before coffee. WCSS11, me after breakfast trying to stay warm. NV_Zeno to the right either blowing his nose, or stuffing his face And here I am with my 4Runner last memorial day weekend.
  8. What brand & model meter did you buy? Multi-meters are good for so much more than just testing alternators & fuses I got mine off ebay for a steal. I love it, but I paid almost as much for my new leads as I did the meter itself.
  9. whats broken on it? When you go into low range, does the "LO" light indicator light on the dash? Its either the 4WD light switch, or the Low range indicator switch.
  10. Yeah i gave up looking for gaskets long ago. Just get a sheet of gasket paper and a good exacto knife. Use a single hole punch to make the holes for the studs.
  11. It all depends on your definition of "off-road"
  12. Welcome to the very first US based Subaru Message board. Nasioc & Iclub came about 3 or 4 years after the USMB was created. Get on those parts!! i am sure many of us could use em
  13. And as a general rule of thumb, you should never use 4WD on pavement. And especially if you have mis-matched tires.
  14. Welcome to the board. Make sure to post up some pictures of that thing to share with the rest of us
  15. I have seen a couple with 12" Its alot of lift for a car.
  16. They are different: GL dash on top, DL Dash on bottom.
  17. EJ22 is your answer then. You can find a sub-forum dedicated to the swap. Welcome to the club,
  18. Dont think it will, if anything it may help gas mileage a bit due to the decrease in turbulence created by your bed. There's a dude in Canada with a EJ20T swapped Brat. he tells me he has to drive with a canopy or else his brat tries to lift off at 100+
  19. I used a piece of coat hanger when I did my mod. I have a friend who welded his linkages together. However, it takes precision skill & accuracy
  20. Plenty of options. Built EA81 EA82 EA82T EJ18 EJ20T EJ22 EJ22T EJ25 ER27 EG30 EG33 Now the real question... how much work do you want to do? Can you cut, weld & fabricate? How is your engine wiring experience?
  21. Thanks I love this thing. There are a ton of sweet 4Runners up here, if I had to take a picture everytime I saw one i would need to carry 2 cameras.
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