TheSubaruJunkie

Awesome!! Toyota owners are so smart

Best album of all time. Ok, so since its lever activated we can forget what people are saying with the vacuum lines. Is the lever stuck in the up position??

Lets clarify which transmission you have. 4speed or 5speed? dual range 4wd or Single range 4wd? Pushbutton or lever activated 4WD?

I put WRX springs on my Wagon... i found that only the fronts fit and the rears did not. Mine was a '92 with a different suspension setup though.

auburn is where? And to save some time, hows about you just copy & paste a link directly to your cardomain site??

Black interior existed on turbo models but was very rare. I say you drive that thing down here and drive home in my Brat... if you hate it so much

Cool. This thread was originally posted in '04 when we all took a drive to the West Coast Subaru Show & Back. The majority of our gang came from Northern Nevada, there was me from Sacramento and Mike from San Jose. But, your drive is pretty impressive. I didnt even know they had roads that lead to Prudhoe Bay. My father works there, but flys.

I saw you use the extra spark plug holes and install some NOS injectors

Here's a picture of my old setup. Its a EA82T from a 1987 RX Coupe. Should be identical to yours. The Intercooler is from a SAAB 900. The Bypass Valve is as well. The Bypass valve is a generic bosch unit you can find on alot of turbo cars. They have a metal version and a plastic version... metal obviously being the better. The routing of everything is pretty crude and could be done alot more efficiently (like mounting the actuall bypass valve as close to the throttle body as possible). Look at the passenger side strut tower, and you will see a copper valve with a handle on the backside. THat is my manual boost controller. That is the $10 peice of crap I got 1st, and it had a bad problem with "Boost Creep". It also wouldn't hold pressure and my boost would spike alot. It was very annoying and worried me. All of that was solved after installing the GFB MBC. Have fun but be careful. Didn't take long at all to blow the engine up after these photos were taken. The EA82T's are not known for their reliability like all other Subaru engines.

Do not skimp on your boost controller. Yes, you should get a manual boost controller to up your PSI... but do some research and get a good one. I spent $40 on ebay and got a GFB (Go Fast Bits) MBC (manual Boost Controller) for my EA82T. It worked WAY better than the cheap $10 peice of crap i bought before that (some home-made hackjob...) Your ECU monitors intake pressure, and if it goes past 11psi the ECU shuts down the fuel injectors. So you can go up to about 11psi before you reach a limit. However, I wouldn't touch any of this until you have an intercooler installed! Also, find a real bypass valve (not a blow-off valve) and install that in the system as well. Would be a good idea to research turbo setups and how they need to be plumbed. The EA82T is primative and doesn't come with a BPV.

Cheap vises will never keep their strength and usually the jaws wont hold your material tight enough. I have a cheap one at home, and i worked with real nice ones at work. They were cleaning shop at work one day, and I was able to come home with a spare Vise... still havent mounted it, but even unmounted its still a better vise to use than my cheap one mounted to my workbench. The one pictured is real nifty. It would probably do 99% of what a rotating vise will do.

Sure... do it and let us know how well it works out for you.

Theres a part number for the Subaru LSD and the tag that goes with it. Notice the huge lettering "LSD" which clearly identifies it as a Limited Slip Diff. Doesnt look like the part numbers match. I'd be willing to bet you have a plain jane open rear diff. I sure hope you didnt pay money for it.

If you can find us some better CV's to use, you will be a hero to many!

VLSD's never were offered in EA82's. Only in 1991 with the Legacy Turbo. Maybe in some WRX's and Foresters too. However, in '86 the only LSD that was available from Subaru was a clutch pack LSD.

Its apparent you do not know how a limited slip operates. It provides a limited amount of slip when TOO MUCH force is applied. If not enough force is applied (ie... by hand) than the clutch packs will NOT slip, and the diff will remain locked. If you were to lock the input shaft, and lock one of the output shafts.... then force the opposite shaft to spin, it will slip. Its a Limited amount of slip, and depending on the condition of your clutch packs they will slip easily, or not at all. Forget the part number. Go grab your differential, spin one of the stub shafts and see if the other spins in the opposite direction. NO MATTER WHAT if its any type of a limited slip or locker, the other stub shaft will always spin in the same direction. No matter how much force or how less force you apply. If you still have questions, there's this great website that has been around for a while... http://www.google.com I suggest "how to identify a limited slip differential" Best of luck.

Do you even know what a LSD is or how it operates? The easiest way to tell, is to spin one of the stub shafts while holding the input shaft still. The opposite stub shaft will spin in the same direction if the diff is a LSD. If it is an open diff, the opposite stub shaft will spin in the opposite direction. And i dont know who you bought this diff from... but EVERY SINGLE subaru LSD diff, is labeled "LSD" on the tag. All of this information is readily available here, and on most Datsun sites as well.

Didnt get any Subaru pix... other than the Turbo XT & RX that were parked. Not gonna make it back today, but hopefully they do this again. The track they had setup was awesome!! I'll upload pix tonight to share.

All the lifts Ive done have had engine xmember blocks. So i just did the entire front end at one time, this involves unbolting the strut tops and the xmember, letting the engine fall and everything goes with it. However, with this 2" lift... it shouldnt be nearly as difficult.

Saw a red Legacy GT with washington plates... didnt see him run, but i saw him parked. A friend of yours?

Step 1: keep the strut tops bolted to the body, and remove the one 14mm camlock bolt from the knuckle, holding the balljoint to the lower control arm. (the bolt is on the side of the knuckle itself) Step 2: have fat mike step on the lower control arm, forcing the ball joint out of the control arm itself. Step 3: Unbolt the strut tops, and you should have all the room in the world.

So I went to check this out. Saw a few familiar Subaru's... the FWD XT Turbo with the welded front diff that Mike put together. Got to see him race. THere was also a '87 RX there with some extensive front end work, i didnt get to see him run, but he was parked there. Was only there for a couple hours, they were running FWD Neons and stuff. The course was real nice though. Might go back tomorrow afternoon and see if we can catch some AWD action.

Where's the pix?

Any 13" wheel you find for a Subaru will be good for your 155's. I wouldnt worry about it all that much.

wierd, you should be able to get the space you need by prying down the lower control arm. Your fat friend Mike should be more than enough help... all you are after is 2" of lift.